The reason I did it the way I did is the lack of room behind the light when it is in down position. I probably could have cut and made something work, but I found there is more clearance from the light to the front bumper and I have no problem molding a lens. I also found the glass lens distorted the light output so I would have made a lens anyways.

I know you said it seemed like the light was distorted a bit but what about a spacer for the original lens?

you dont think acrylic will end up warping?

You can see in the picture how the glass lens would distort the cutoff. I'm not going through the work to have a fuzzy or uneven cutoff.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/IMAG0078.jpg

I'm not worried about the acrylic warping at all. It's .080" and took 300 degrees just to get it pliable to work with. 350 degrees made it real workable. If I leave some space between the front lens and the projector lens there should be plenty of air movement to keep temps at bay. The inside of the housing shouldn't see more than 150 degrees.

the other flip up conversions guys kept the original lenses, but I cant recall seeing a picture of the backside of them, besides the sakebomb ones with the 2 part foam

im going to assume they trimmed that foam before shipping them out

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/atta...6&d=1286309148

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/atta...4&d=1286309148

Sakebomb is using the same housing as i am which is the pilot automotive one. The reason they kept it is because it is plastic which will not distort cutoff.

glass will distort?

Hey RX7Club!

Yeah I did a TSX retrofit with regular old H6054 housings that worked well other than being a bit (1/2") too deep. You can trim the engine bay metal to allow it to clear but I didn't want to cut it.

What I am looking at now is a source for shallow Bi-Xenon projectors as most of these are just low beam.

-NJGB

Not all but the cheap ones from ebay make the cutoff fuzzy and lose color.

Ok, for those in the know.... I have a set of East Bear headlights that I've been running H3 HIDs in. Brighter, but not very effective since I have to point them down so much to keep from blinding people.

I'd love to find some shallow projectors to be able to mod and put into the back of the IPF foglights that make up the East Bears. I thought about using Hella 90mm projectors, but I think they're going to need too much room.

Any thoughts? I'll try to get some pics of what I'm working with if needed.

HIDs
 

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3z7gcXLHoxM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

See I find the cutoff to be fuzzy with those, but it could be the video.

The way the Sakebomb ones are I don't think would fit an FC without trimming metal behind the light to allow them to close properly. I could be totally wrong, but from my own trial and error there isn't enough room with my setup to mount the projector behind the front lens.

I'm not saying my way is right and theirs is wrong, there is no single way to do this. Hell I have a v8 in my car that several won't agree with lol.

I think right now the best projector that will give enough clearance is definitely the mini, H1 or D2S. I'm impressed with the output for its size.

I'll keep you guys posted on how the Sakebombs work out :)

The tsx is the most played out projector ever i remember a few years ago people were all hyped up about it, i bought a set and installed a clear lens and i was dissapointed i think i paid a little more than 200 for it also which now i think is a crazy price.

Hella 90mm projectors are what I'm about to be running with H9/H11 HIDs. Here's a preview of my set up...

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7389336_n.jpg

I think the mini's are the smallest, but those wont quite fit either ( im told )

When you bought the sakebomb's did it mention having to trim the metal behind the light to clear?
My local guy will supply the TRS mini kit, the housings, and do the conversion for $650 I think it was, I would have to check my emails. They do a ton of conversions and they are listed on the TRS site as a installer. He also said some trimming would need to be done.

I am not a fan of having the projector out without a lens, and Im not sure how well someone can bend acrylic to fit in front of the projector AND wrap around at a 90 degree to meet the headlight housing.

Rob,

The sakebombs will drop right in, and it's plug n' play. Heath said that the FC ones should be done in these upcoming weeks. I'm anticipating a <1 hour install.

I'm curious to see how they turn out. Not that I'm gonna change the way I'm doing mine though. It will work, been done before without vacuum forming.

It's good to see the FC community finally getting into retrofitting. Sakebomb's prices are definitely fair considering the work it takes to fit the larger FX-R projector into the housings and make them drop in.

Rob, to clear up some confusion about the Mini D2S and Mini H1 projectors, they fit most H4/H7 reflectors without any modification. Our 6054 H4 housings are too shallow to allow them to fasten with the lock nut. Now my Spectra for example uses 9003/H4 lights and the housings are fairly deep. The Mini D2S fit perfectly without any modification. So it all depends on the housing you have.

The Morimoto Mini projectors are the smallest Bi-Xenon projectors on the market and the output from them is quite good considering. The D2S is about a half inch shorter than the H1 verson. The Mini H1 actually has slightly better output than the Mini D2S but you have to rely on aftermarket H1 bulbs as there are no OEM H1 HID bulbs. The Mini D2S still has an amazing output given its size, and utilizes D2S bulbs(obviously) which gives you quite a few OEM quality options.

I chose the Morimoto Mini D2S in my Spectra. I went with TRS' Plug 'N Play upgrade kit which consisted of the projectors, Morimoto 5000k D2S bulbs, E55-R shoruds, and AMP/D2S adapters so I can use my existing ballasts. Total retrofit time was literally a few hours. No comparison to a PnP kit.

Hopefully that clears up some stuff. If anyone has any specific questions, you can email Matt directly at TRS: Matt@theretrofitsource.com He will answer anything you can possibly think of. I hope to retrofit my Turbo II sometime later this year when it's up and running with the same combination as my Spectra. When I do I will be sure to take tons of pictures and maybe make a write up.

Done! too bad my car doesn't have an engine lol

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...7/DSC05609.jpg

so informative!
looks like it has no back?

Here is the back of mine not sure if you were talking to me or not. I like to keep my stuff clean and simple.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...7/DSC05612.jpg

when viewed from the front it looks like you can see wires in there

are these all the photos you are going to share?

Those are the all I have it was just a mockup I have to order new shrouds and locking nuts.

are there any plug and play kits for HIDS in h4 housings?

No the only way to do it is a retrofit or buy the sakebomb kit which is plug and play.