jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Decided to try my D60 out on manual mode at night since I'm usually a point and shoot kind of guy.


Received my Tial 50mm in the mail and decided to slap it on and clean some stuff up.



I will be driving the thing up to a close by fabrication shop to make me an intercooler pipe since my welder is not setup for aluminum work. While its there, they will extend my exhaust to the downpipe since I'm cheap and dont want to invest in a better system.

Also finished up my battery cables all nice so it doesn't look haggard in the hatch when the lid is opened (lol)



And redid my oil lines. The line itself separated a bit from the edge of the fitting making a small leak. I picked up some Teflon tape as suggested by a mod.



Other than that, I just have to wait for SEMA to end so Haltech will ship out my Iq3 dash and wideband.

Here's a quick photochop, yes I'm a n00b lol but whatever, I think it looks decent

Hecubus84

iTrader: (1)

Giggidy Giggidy

Fine work there sir.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I've been saying it for months now, but I finally think its ready to go on the street to get the rest of the stuff made up!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Apologies if this has been covered. Here are my questions:

1) Have you ported the wastegate? I have heard some will use a precontrol flapper for it as well, I think it opens more.

2) How are you controlling boost? 3 way solenoid to the wastegate actuator (Profec etc) ? Are you using the Haltech?

3) You did the full "rich man's" non sequential, correct? You have to remove the turbo control flapper (in the manifold) and the precontrol flapper (in the turbo assembly), then plug the hole where the respective hinges went. The charge control butterfly valve is also removed and plugged.

4) Are you using the factory idle air control valve with the Haltech? It is a 244hz solenoid valve (according to the FD training manual) just like the FC BAC valve, bolted to the back of the UIM. Don't confuse it with the accelerated warmup system solenoid. I would run it personally. There's no extra plumbing involved like on the FC. If you know how to set it up, it's kind of pointless to remove. The only reason why people take them off FD's is because the Power FC is not that great at controlling it precisely.

5) I presumed you removed the double throttle in the UIM?

6) Premix, or Haltech stepper motor control?

7) What secondary injectors are you running?

some pics of a full non sequential setup: http://www.blackgto.com/RX7/turbos/garfinkle.htm

If you need advice, I know a lot about the FD twins. I actually did an article explaining how every single system in the sequential turbo setup works and what all the vacuum lines do. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-1-sequential-turbos-demystified-841821/ It wouldn't be that hard to set up on the Haltech either, but for reliability and simplicity's sake you're better off staying non sequential I'd say.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

I tore the turbo system apart and did the "rich man" method. One of the flappers I left but welded (I take any chance I can to use the welder :P ). And yes, I ported the wastegate (how good is yet to be seen when its in action).
The twins are temporary until I move up to a single turbo, but I felt I have dumped enough coin on it and will try and just have fun with it for a while as is.

I will be buying a 3 way solenoid (identical to the Haltech product) and will be letting the Haltech control boost.

I'm using stock injectors as I don't plan on high horsepower currently.

I am premixing, but will be buying a rotary aviation adapter and will also let my Haltech control the oil metering.

Double throttle removed but the BAC is still there unwired (Seems to run fine with out it).