ronnie416

I'm buying the whole package for 1200. Heads, cam, intake etc...

1200 isn't much for a car. My coils are worth more than that. My wheels alone were twice that.

I'm not sure what I'm proving.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

i thought you said you did the swap for under 1500?

the point is, that light cast windor block wont hold up reliably to the higher horsepower capible with the aftermarket heads/intake etc....

you also need to degree in your aftermarket cam, it is a must.

and that you do not have them now, and i'm guessing sence you refenced the HO thats what you have for a motor, so the best you could be doing is around 260-270 right now.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

cant be serious saying a late model 302 is only good for 350hp?

ronnie416

Are you what they call a "hater?"

The swap was under 1500. I never said anything about chassis modifications. Chassis mods are always the $$$ part. Powerplants, meh. I'll have around 8000 into the chassis after I'm done. With the two sets of wheels, coils, overfenders, kit, tie rods, bushings, camber arms etc....

I'm prolly making LESS than 260 right now. Its STOCK. So prolly like 210 whp but with a shitload of torque. Its FUN!

You're insane if you think a 305ho from an 88 gt won't handle bolt on heads, bolt on intake and a B303 cam. Insane.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

blocks weeeeaaaakkk

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

letter cams are terible, your better with the HO and 1.7 IMO

A stock HO produces 225hp and 300ftlb BTW

the block will dump, you'll have two 4cyls that hold no oil




This is what happens 350-400 mark ^^^^

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

if you paid 2400 for those gr-c's then you just got jipped for about 1800.

ronnie416

They're volk cv-pros, worth about 2000 new. Paid 1000 used.

Forged wide-ish wheels with lower offsets are worth $$$$ plus the obligatory works/vol racing markup.

ronnie416

Hence stock equalling 210 whp

Dude. I can pull pics of rotaries that let go at 200 whp. That's not the norm though. It happens but not to most.

And this car will NEVER see 400whp. Its not what I'm after. I would be happy with 300 but will prolly end up with more just with the package I'm buying from the dude.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

just be careful, that pictures worth a thousand words.

rotarys are subject to too much neglect, poor tuning, etc... to really give a power threshold.

you should have 225hp with a stock HO 5.0

the reason the Gt40P explorer is only rated @ 215hp is because the cam sux, it peeters out around 3krpm....

with the engine i built for my explorer reusing the OE gt40p heads and intake i hope for 270-80 once i get headers on it. without the headers (as it is right now) i would be supprised if it produces anything more then 230hp.

other then its gt40p stuff its got HO cam, stock ratio full roller rockers, 1" intake spacer, CAI, and dual 2.5" exhaust.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

Me and my friends played with those cars when they were new, back in 1989-1991 you could take a bone stock car, upgrade the fuel pump, injectors, heads, cam, intake, exhaust, and other assorted popular mods and that car would run for 200k miles without a problem and embarrass ALOT of cars on the road and do damm well at the track.

210hp and 300ft lbs of torque in a 3000lb vert is a very nice package that will last FOREVER, I know of Mustangs with over 300k,400k miles on them, they will run forever.

ronnie416

I hear you.

The thing is, I'm not HP hungry like a lot of the other V8 guys are. They're out chasing numbers on the dyno.

I'm not not gonna be doing anything beyond bolting on the heads, intake, headers, cam, fuel pump, ignition. Even then, that will be MORE than enough power for me. Honestly, if I could just reach 300whp, I'd be more than happy.

225 flywheel is what's they're rated at. A mustang. Drivetrain loss equals 205-215 whp.

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

cv-pros are the same thing as gr-c the center cap is the only difference but you are not using them probably because you don't have the right lug nuts. Do a quick search on google and you will notice that used ones are selling for 500 to 600.

i mean i can get you another set if you want a local guy is selling his for the price of 600.

mark up on work/volk wheels? you obviously fell into this trap since you paid three times as much the wheels are actually worth.

ronnie416

I am quite amused by your reply. I don't quite know why assume and come to conclusions about someone you've never met.

Yes, I paid 1000 used. With almos brand new tires on em. That's worth money, afterall, new tires cost actual money, right?

Actually, with the lugs I'm running, I could run the centre caps. I'd be running them if I had them. Why would you assume that I would spend X amount on the wheels but not proper lug nuts?

600x3 equals 1800.

Yes, I am willing to pay more for Works/Volk wheels. Why? They're proven and worth every penny.

I just don't understand what your replies have to do with anything except to make me feel stupid. I dunno. I posted some pics that I thought looked pretty fun. You know, the wholeeven when sitting still.n background is blurred cuz FC's are so sleek kinda thing? You know, fun?

Anyways, I would totally jump on another set for 600 locally. To me though. Depending on tires. If I needed to shell out 400 for tires after that, wouldn't that make them cost $1000? I dunno.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Still looks broken. Rotary POWER FTMFW!

ronnie416

You're right! It still IS broken! Yes, rotaries are pretty neat and is obviously a superior motor! Seriously!

I agree, but I can aslo have fun with this powerplant! I love all kinds of different motors for different reasons.

I even love B series Honda motors! I drive an EK as my daily and I love it to bits!!!!

I just love enjoying all kinds of cars and motors dude.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

the douchery is strong in this thread

I thought it was a cool picture, everyone likes to give their opinions about the motor, they should just stfu

ronnie416

I base a lot of what I say on experience.

One of the main reasons I am willing to pay more for a Works wheel is that they can easily be repaired.

This is my AME FIN. (AME is made by Enkei, who in turn, make Work/Volk/AME with all the same process in the same plant...just for those who didn't know already, I'm sure most the "cool kids" on here knew that already though) Dented pretty good. I bought them back from a friend after I sold them to him. He did this:



I'll post the after pic n a sec. Just used a piece of wood and a BFH to straighten it out. Holds air and balances again.

I don't have the back side after on my phone but I'll post it later.

Anyways, from big dent to all nice, pretty and true enough to balance again. Try doing THAT with a knockoff cheap wheel.

ronnie416

Thx for the compliment in the picture. I'm glad you like it. That was my only intention, to show some pics of an FC looking fast, even broken on the side of the highway with its hood open. I did not want to start a pissing contest.

I don't expect everyone to like my choice of motors for this chassis. Afterall, this is an RX7 forum. Home of the rotary. I truly do love RX'es, I truly do love the rotary as well. But I am first and foremost a car guy, not a V8 guy or a rotary guy or any type of guy except a car and bike guy.

There are pros and cons to all chassis types and all motor types. I can have fun in my FF EK civic around a tight circuit track, I can have fun cruising in a torque beast with the top down enjoying the sound and feeling of a V8 and I can enjoy drifitng the same car and laughing my *** off the whole time in pleasure.

I've enjoyed lots of cars in my day and have positive and negative experiences from all of them. I enjoy FF, FR, MR, blah blah, I enjoy small displacement, hugh revving torqueless motors, low revving torque monsters, or a balance of the two, like my RB series motors into a 240 chassis. Liked them ALL and will never stock to only one type of car or powerplant.

Anyways, I've done enough rambling.

I just wanted to share some pics. I'm a photographer by trade and I'll continue to share pics from my experiences on this forum until there's no more point in doing so.

Cheers to all! Peace!

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

good looking car though, just wish the front bumper was lower to match the sides. im sure its fun to drive esp with the top down

ronnie416

Thanks for the compliment! I've put my blood and sweat into the car and I really appreciate it when I get a compliment on it. I truly do appreciate it.

I agree about the front. I was actually out buying a dremel tool from the store so I could go home and fit my front lip on. It looks way too high in the front comparatively. I'm hoping to get a more aggressive kit before my paint in June.

I'm using a urethane front lip that's been to hell and back. I pulled it off of my Silvia front end on my other car and am matching it up to the S4 front bumper. Fits pretty good, needs a little massaging and modding but should like like it was made for the car when I'm done with it.....hopefully.

I'll post pics when it's on.

magus2222

iTrader: (22)

you know whats sad, my 7 left me stranded 15X more than my bug ever had.............******* car

Lloyd

StavFC

Some funny stuff being said here, lol.

302s are not super strong, in fact they are pretty weak, but if you turbo them they stay in one piece for a long time even at 500bhp and more than that in torque with a good tune and a 100% stock engine if you keep the revs sensible.
Its revs that kill them, hence why not to good in n/a form, but its been proven in the past that even in n/a form they can do 400bhp with a well thought out HCI swap.

Also, they are mega light, with ally heads its on par with a 13BT.
And in physical size they are the smallest of the V8s by far.
Modular engines are ridiculously heavy and in size they are about the same as a big block.
Best of all, they are crazy cheap.
And considering the price of a 2500bhp capable Dart block, IF you was ever going to do a big power build, its no big deal that the stock block is on borrowed time above about 100bhp per litre in turbo form...

Ronnie- I understand due to the oil pump and pickup location SBFs cant fit as low as Chev V8s- Your handling still seems the same to you?
I know SBFs better than most engines, therefore have always been reluctant to go the Chev route as I have had no dealings with them, but I heard the Fords cant sit low under a FC hood. Hmm...

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

I think that block i pictured split at sub 5k rpm, its all about the power of the "power stroke". turbo is byfar one of the largest killer of light 302s, the increased pressure chamber and hence much more powerful "power" stroke hapining on both sides of the engine causes cracks initialy running the length of the lifter galley, then after a few more revolutions at the same power level, tears the block down the center. high rpms only incur the problem faster due to the stock rotating assembily/overall engine setup not being rated for sustained high rpm operation.

"Henche en mexico" block is what you need, those are the "good" ones.

they dont fit as low becasue the oil pump is in the front of a windsor and in the back on a gen1 small block chevy. so the pan has to be deeper for a long pickup tube, two sump, etc...

what mods have you looked @? there are too many variations of mod motors to say that "mod" motors in geniral look like big blocks, noticably the large deck hight diffence between the 4.6 and the 5.4, all 5.4 blocks (accept the new mustangs equipt with the 5.4, and the ford GT super car) are cast iorn, many of the 4.6 however are aluminum. I've seen a 5.4 and 302 next to eachother, its not that much bigger... that or you've never seen a big block FE engine next to a mod, JESUS!

the fact is, its a weak block and pushing decent street power can prove totaly fatal to that engine. thats why i call it a boat anchor.

it is a cool set of pictures BTW

Spirit-RE

iTrader: (25)

All I heard in this thread was 1uz FC and rb20 FC. !