Pimped out gauge clusters
Just a general question. How do you guys line the needles back up after puting the gauges in? The one time i installed gauges i didnt get the needles back on right and my coolant gauge was messed up along with the others im sure. Thanks
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i did it to my old 240sx,.. you can rotate the needle by hand til it stops at its travel limit, than you mark that position like putting a dot with a marker somewhere on the cluster where the needle points to at that stop point.. then when you put the needle back on, you make sure the needle stops at that same point.
i did it to my old 240sx,.. you can rotate the needle by hand til it stops at its travel limit, than you mark that position like putting a dot with a marker somewhere on the cluster where the needle points to at that stop point.. then when you put the needle back on, you make sure the needle stops at that same point.
You can use the voltmeter gauge from an NA with a TII cluster with no modifications needed hypertek. Remove it from a donor NA cluster and put it into the TII cluster. I did it in one of my fcs and it goes in the place of the boost gauge. The oil pressure and the voltmeter gauge is one piece and it drops right in
You can use the voltmeter gauge from an NA with a TII cluster with no modifications needed hypertek. Remove it from a donor NA cluster and put it into the TII cluster. I did it in one of my fcs and it goes in the place of the boost gauge. The oil pressure and the voltmeter gauge is one piece and it drops right in
well rested,buffet o food
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 1
From: NY
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-88...Q5fAccessories
not the same.... but you can get a similar cheap look for 19.99, shipped.
john ny
not the same.... but you can get a similar cheap look for 19.99, shipped.
john ny
My current cluster setup. It's getting rebuilt in carbon in the next week or two, though the layout will stay the same. I'm also adding controls for 2 step over ride (force into 2 Step for burnouts) and line-lock to the steering wheel. Both will be latching circuits (tap button on, tap button off).
The lights in the surround are hyper bright LEDs for my old sequential shift light I designed. They currently light up for overboost (2 for stage 1, 2 more if it goes 3-4 psi or better overboost); I'm probably going to switch them to indicate scramble boost since my boost controller already flashes brightly if I overboost.
The rest of the lights are: 2x turn signals, brights, AlkyControl Active, SES light, 2 Step Active
In the second pic you can see the new Raptor shift light also. The cluster gauges are: Speedo, tach, oil pressure, water temp, fuel level. Other gauges are: Wideband O2, Fuel Pressure, Oil Temp, EGT, AEM Tru-Boost and Voltage.
The lights in the surround are hyper bright LEDs for my old sequential shift light I designed. They currently light up for overboost (2 for stage 1, 2 more if it goes 3-4 psi or better overboost); I'm probably going to switch them to indicate scramble boost since my boost controller already flashes brightly if I overboost.
The rest of the lights are: 2x turn signals, brights, AlkyControl Active, SES light, 2 Step Active
In the second pic you can see the new Raptor shift light also. The cluster gauges are: Speedo, tach, oil pressure, water temp, fuel level. Other gauges are: Wideband O2, Fuel Pressure, Oil Temp, EGT, AEM Tru-Boost and Voltage.