new turbo, im frickin awesome!
#28
I have a rotary addiction
iTrader: (18)
67mm front wheel, 70mm back wheel, t4 flange(you have to modify the holes on the turbo flange a bit) between a 1.00-1.15 a/r on the rear. turbo cost 500 bux, hks 44mm wastegate with 1 bar spring.
tin foil heat wrap ftw, **** is good for protection against heat. im not rich and i do things on a budget, my set-up is super cheap but it works.
tin foil heat wrap ftw, **** is good for protection against heat. im not rich and i do things on a budget, my set-up is super cheap but it works.
Just my recommendation.
#32
The Doctor
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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Looks good. Nice interior. It's possibly one of the first ones I've seen on here where its not stuffed with gauges that'll never get looked at. I think having gauges down there is pointless as you cant look at them while driving.
Don't know what injectors your running but might want to bump up a little bit if your still on the stock 460's.
Great car, you have my
And don't listen to anyone telling you you should paint your car. If you like it how it is, leave it that way. F*** the haters.
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Don't know what injectors your running but might want to bump up a little bit if your still on the stock 460's.
Great car, you have my
And don't listen to anyone telling you you should paint your car. If you like it how it is, leave it that way. F*** the haters.
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#36
t4 is a flange size, not a turbo type. going with an upgraded turbo that involves a t4 flange means a lot of money. manifold, turbo, down pipe, wastegate, fuel and ignition control, and lots of little things that i am forgetting. if you really want to make power its the way to go but most people are just as happy with a good hybrid. i have been wanting to do this since i was 16 and now im 27 and have the means, i finally did it. as far as psi, im running a hks 44mm wastegate with a 1 bar spring, even at low boost this thing pulls really hard, cant wait to switch to e85.
#43
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: 626, California
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How'd you do the ABS delete? is there a write up anywhere? Would be nice to not have to drive all the way out to signal hill to mazdatrix just to buy a lil hose setup on tuesday...
#44
deleting the abs was easy, just go get one 3 way block, and one union and the proper compression fittings and the flare tool. disconnect all lines going to abs, remove the pos, cut all the factory fittings off, slide on compression fittings, flare the ends, put the two front brake hard lines into the 3 way and then the supply from the masterinto thelast spot on the 3 way block, then connect the supply for the rear from the master to the hardline going out to the back brakes. bleed and drive. cost me like 5 bux. or just order the piece for 38 bux from mazda trix for 38 bux and use the factory flare fittings.