My FC rust gallery (or Why I should give up on this car) - lots of pics
#26
three spinning triangles
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SE Wisconsin
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#27
not a drifter
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I'm following this: FC Jack Safety The jack stands are at the rear sub-frame/differential mounts. I don't have a floor jack, and only 2 jack stands. The jacks are where they are supposed to go. (The blue jack is from the 7, and the black one is from my parents' dodge caravan.)
If you're talking about the dents, It was bent up like that when I got it.
#28
Listen to King Diamond.
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OP, you should really invest in a good floor jack. It makes lifting the car 100x easier (and safer, I really don't trust those scissor jacks at all). If you're going to own an RX7 (or any car you plan on maintaining yourself), you'll be using it enough to justify paying for one.
#29
r o t a r y
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Where should it be?
That's where that jack is supposed to go according to the haynes manual (which I don't have with me at the moment)--between the two bolts. That part sticking down along the side of car goes in the notch on the jack, but it's all bent up as if some one had been using a floor jack at those points.
The attached image (from that rotorwiki page) shows floor jack/ jack stand points. I added the green circles, where the car in the picture is being lifted. That's where the haynes manual says to jack up the car and so that's where I put the jacks. With a floor jack I'd use the red circle, and with jack stands, the blue circles.
yes i know. I'll get one soon, definitely before I do any suspension work. Most of what I've done to it hasn't required lifting it besides changing the oil--which I used ramps for--so I haven't really need one until now.
That's where that jack is supposed to go according to the haynes manual (which I don't have with me at the moment)--between the two bolts. That part sticking down along the side of car goes in the notch on the jack, but it's all bent up as if some one had been using a floor jack at those points.
The attached image (from that rotorwiki page) shows floor jack/ jack stand points. I added the green circles, where the car in the picture is being lifted. That's where the haynes manual says to jack up the car and so that's where I put the jacks. With a floor jack I'd use the red circle, and with jack stands, the blue circles.
OP, you should really invest in a good floor jack. It makes lifting the car 100x easier (and safer, I really don't trust those scissor jacks at all). If you're going to own an RX7 (or any car you plan on maintaining yourself), you'll be using it enough to justify paying for one.
#31
Listen to King Diamond.
iTrader: (4)
Luckily, that's just surface rust. The best thing to do is completely clean the rust off the part (with a wire wheel or media blasting), treat any seams and hard to reach areas with naval jelly, then finish the part with a good quality paint.
Those parts are really annoying to remove though, and since they're on the interior of the car and won;t exposed to rain, snow, salt, etc, you could probably just treat them with naval jelly.
Really, you could probably leave them just like they are and it would likely be fine.
Those parts are really annoying to remove though, and since they're on the interior of the car and won;t exposed to rain, snow, salt, etc, you could probably just treat them with naval jelly.
Really, you could probably leave them just like they are and it would likely be fine.
#32
Ok thanks. I will probably just do that. I hate rusts. I want to keep my FC forever lol have anyone had any experience using Quick-Glo? I saw it on one of Jay Leno's show. It seems to work pretty good with removing rusts.
#33
NA-BOOSTIN
Wire wheel to the rescue there brotha like stated before . Jacking points lol I jack the 7 up in the middle lol then I can put two jack stands at a time since it likes being on those more the the road lol
#35
I have a rotary addiction
iTrader: (18)
All that picture needs to be worse is the owner under it.
For rust... if its not on a structural spot like a frame rail or suspension / sub frame mount, if welding is not an option just grind it out and slap some Bondo in it followed with a bunch of undercoating on both sides. That will at least slow it down and seal it up.
For rust... if its not on a structural spot like a frame rail or suspension / sub frame mount, if welding is not an option just grind it out and slap some Bondo in it followed with a bunch of undercoating on both sides. That will at least slow it down and seal it up.
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thecody59
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