i just gutted mine out also. i want to do the same to my S4 TII Mirrors like Ben said. i gave up on trying to remove the door rod brackets (thing that acts like a strut to prop the door open) as it was in such an awkward corner. i used a flap disc on a grinder to smooth it all up, and take down all the internal brackets as best as possible.

i have to ask though... how did you get the inner support removed from the door, without making dents/high spots in the visible side of the outer door skin?? i went at it with a heat gun for like 45 mins, and nothing.... i didnt want to pull/pry it, knowing it would dent my door. the plus side of keeping it, is i can self tap screw my inner handle to it, and have the lock atleast for out of state events.


as for the people making smart remarks, this is probably the best thing you can do to the interior of your race FC, aside from doing a cage.
anyone who does this, OBVIOUSLY needs to have a roll cage, or YESS you WILLL DIEEEEEEEEE!

the interior of my drift car has a much more open/spacious feel to it since having done this to the doors. not to mention i can remove them fast for whatever reason, and not crap my pants trying to lift them...

 

If you are having a hard time lifting an FC door, you need to go work out.

 

hahaha typical RX7Club.com post. ^
your mom never taught you any manners or what?

 

Do you mean the side impact beam? I first cut a slice out of the impact beam in an easy to get to spot, pretty much right down the middle. This gives room to wiggle each remaining side. I then drilled the 6 spot welds on each side. I drilled a little at a time and wiggled the impact beam a little everytime until the weld finally broke. Then I buffed the holes with a sanding wheel.

The drill actually caught some metal and over powered me and went too far in. I ended up making a little dent in the "skin" of the door. But one little tap with a hammer and it was visibly gone.

 

Update:

So today during lunch I decided to dig into the mirrors and see if there was any weight to be saved there.

1st pic: Total weight for 1 (one) mirror unit, inside motor, wiring, 3 mounting bolts and plastic triangular cover (basically everything) is 1 lb 14.1 oz.

2nd pic: Theres a large metal support inside the mirror unit. It weighs 7.85 oz.

3rd pic: The mirror itself and its plastic backing weigh 3.1 oz.

4th pic: The plastic one-piece mirror-holder weighs 9.7 oz.

5th pic: Now the plastic one-piece mirror-holder + the mirror and backing + the metal support + 3 tiny screws holding the metal support to the plastic one-piece mirror-holder + 3 larger gold colored screws to hold the mirror unit to the car...all that weighs 1 lb 5.15 oz.

Now theres really only 2 options here. Either use the metal support or not. I might use it but I'm not sure yet. I def dont want my mirrors flying off at high speed.

If you use it, total new weight is 1 lb 5.15 oz for each mirror unit.
That equates a total weight loss of 8.95 oz.
About half a pound each mirror unit. 1 lb 1.9 oz for both mirror units.

If you decide not to use the metal support, new total weight is (1 lb 5.15 oz minus 7.85 oz) 13.3 oz per mirror unit.
Thats a total weight loss of 16.8 oz per mirror unit.
About a pound per mirror unit or two pounds for the car.



So in conclusion...theres not too much weight to save in the mirrors. But if you have the free time and you truely believe every pound matters (like I do), then go ahead and gut them.

I will make my next update when I install the plexiglass windows and the interior and exterior handles.

 

race naked, save about 10 pounds. stop eating, before every race take some lax so you crap out everything inside you and don't drink liquids. shave EVERYWHERE, and if you really believe every pound counts remove one of your lungs and liver, 1 of your ***** and pretty much 1 of everything where you have 2.

 

I bet you could save some weight if you thoroughly cleaned and de-greased the bottom of your car. Maybe 10 pounds or so?

 

sea foam is a fuel/oil additive that cleans your engine and injectors, i dont think it would do any good for door weight reduction.

 

You have two livers?

 

Call me silly, but I'm actually on a diet...reason 1 (90%) for my health, reason 2 (10%) for the car. I'm 6'1", 245lbs and I want to get down to 210lbs. Lol.

 

Doing something like that is actually on the list. There are some areas under there that are loaded with grease and it looks like some kind of sound deadening like whats on the interior of the frame.

 

most vehicles after '79 or so have been using uni-body structures...

 

Sigh...Not that it matters to my original topic or goal of the thread, but if you really want to be technical with me, it is a monocoque frame.

Anyone else have experiences with shaving weight from the doors? Anyone else have a lower weight?

I'm going to install the interior and exterior door handles and connecting rods later today or tomorrow. I'm sure the weight will go up a little but it shouldn't be too much. After that, I'll pick up the plexiglass and install it and get a final official weight.

 

you have the same thoughts as i do, ive gutted my doors years ago, i too didn't weigh it to start with, but my car used to weigh 2130 last meet, now its gone hectic weight loss with heaps of stuff gone to the tip , cant wait to re assemble it and put it on the scales at the track

 

my car weighed in at 2600 last time I weighed it

 

any finished pics of the doors with the lexan windows in?
did you screw them in place or what?
keen for pics

 

god ideas i need to look into this

 

If u use lexan (aka polycarbonate) thats the same thickness as your glass it will literally be 50% lighter...lexan'd all 5 rear windows on an ae71 'rolla i had (4 quarter + rear hatch). U can cut it w/a die-grinder, 3" dia 1/32" thick cut-off wheel (i did it, soo easy) or u can even score it w/a knife and flex it til snaps along scored line (the hard way).