i got some KICK'n sound!!!!
01-28-10, 05:09 AM
#1
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i got some KICK'n sound!!!!
just got a whole new set of speakers =]
ks400 4" front lower dash
ks525 5 1/2"side doors
ks650 rears 6 1/1" (coming soon =])
CVR 12" for the bass
all speakers wired to an eclipse 400w 4ch amp
and a sony 1200w amp to the sub
this should sound great!!!
ks400 4" front lower dash
ks525 5 1/2"side doors
ks650 rears 6 1/1" (coming soon =])
CVR 12" for the bass
all speakers wired to an eclipse 400w 4ch amp
and a sony 1200w amp to the sub
this should sound great!!!
01-30-10, 12:14 PM
#3
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That will sound good. the CVR doesnt get to crazy on loudness but it does sound good. I just went with one 12" CVR and 4" Alpine speakers all the way around and it sounds great. The Alpine are the best 4 inchers you can buy unless you get component speakers
01-30-10, 04:02 PM
#4
you know you can stuff 5.25" speakers under the dash right? and 6.5" in the rear tower enclosures(these just take a little cutting.) sounds pretty good to me even when i took my subs out. ...now only if i can figure out a way to enclose those 5.25s under the dash and then it will sound great.
01-30-10, 04:32 PM
#5
should have gone polk momo or infiniti, youll regret ever going kicker.
i have never heard a decent system running kicker components. sonys higher end stuff is good, but for mid level sound, polk and infiniti are the way to go.
at least youre running an eclipse amp, thats a good unit
i hope youre not running a mid level sony deck............
Lloyd
i have never heard a decent system running kicker components. sonys higher end stuff is good, but for mid level sound, polk and infiniti are the way to go.
at least youre running an eclipse amp, thats a good unit
i hope youre not running a mid level sony deck............
Lloyd
01-30-10, 05:26 PM
#6
should have gone polk momo or infiniti, youll regret ever going kicker.
i have never heard a decent system running kicker components. sonys higher end stuff is good, but for mid level sound, polk and infiniti are the way to go.
at least youre running an eclipse amp, thats a good unit
i hope youre not running a mid level sony deck............
Lloyd
i have never heard a decent system running kicker components. sonys higher end stuff is good, but for mid level sound, polk and infiniti are the way to go.
at least youre running an eclipse amp, thats a good unit
i hope youre not running a mid level sony deck............
Lloyd
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01-30-10, 10:06 PM
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should have gone polk momo or infiniti, youll regret ever going kicker.
i have never heard a decent system running kicker components. sonys higher end stuff is good, but for mid level sound, polk and infiniti are the way to go.
at least youre running an eclipse amp, thats a good unit
i hope youre not running a mid level sony deck............
Lloyd
i have never heard a decent system running kicker components. sonys higher end stuff is good, but for mid level sound, polk and infiniti are the way to go.
at least youre running an eclipse amp, thats a good unit
i hope youre not running a mid level sony deck............
Lloyd
and kicker is a GREAT BRAND with one of the best quality component system out there next to bose and jbl and etc. although i didnt get component speakers i just got the next best thing.... better than the old kenwood speakers that kept popping when i put up the volume
i have a kenwood 50x4watt headunit
Last edited by DC 91 fc3s; 01-30-10 at 10:10 PM.
01-30-10, 10:08 PM
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you know you can stuff 5.25" speakers under the dash right? and 6.5" in the rear tower enclosures(these just take a little cutting.) sounds pretty good to me even when i took my subs out. ...now only if i can figure out a way to enclose those 5.25s under the dash and then it will sound great.
01-30-10, 10:50 PM
#11
i donno if you know (lol) but they both went out of business.. they still sell there products but no warranty...
and kicker is a GREAT BRAND with one of the best quality component system out there next to bose and jbl and etc. although i didnt get component speakers i just got the next best thing.... better than the old kenwood speakers that kept popping when i put up the volume
i have a kenwood 50x4watt headunit
and kicker is a GREAT BRAND with one of the best quality component system out there next to bose and jbl and etc. although i didnt get component speakers i just got the next best thing.... better than the old kenwood speakers that kept popping when i put up the volume
i have a kenwood 50x4watt headunit
and i guess thats your taste, not once have i ever done a system for a friend or customer that i suggested to use kicker......out of over 40 systems i have either helped build or build myself, 3 of them came to me with kicker comps and the whole thing sounded like ****. replaced them with either polk db or mm, or infinity kappa or reference, tuned the amps and crossovers, tuned the deck, all problems were fixed.
i guess i just dont know car audio though.............
what kind of wiring are you using? i hope decent power wire at least, as well as properly terminating the wires as well as using heat shrink, cause the butterfly twistcaps are not for automotive use.
Lloyd
01-31-10, 10:09 PM
#16
Not a single thread on this forum where someone says "congrats on the xxxx".
All I'm reading is a bunch of thread-crapping telling this guy how much his stuff sucks - shame on you! I can't believe I didn't read anything along the lines of helping this guy. Shame on you again!
There is an interesting website which *may* help you in terms of tuning and ensuring you build a proper enclosure,etc etc. Take a look at http://www.the12volt.com/ (it's been around for a very long time). With proper know-how it really is shocking to hear what some pro-builders can do with legit bullshit-quality audio gear.
I have a new (still in the box) Eclipse 55090 unit waiting to be installed along with some other cool stuff - no subs though.
anyhow, good luck.
All I'm reading is a bunch of thread-crapping telling this guy how much his stuff sucks - shame on you! I can't believe I didn't read anything along the lines of helping this guy. Shame on you again!
There is an interesting website which *may* help you in terms of tuning and ensuring you build a proper enclosure,etc etc. Take a look at http://www.the12volt.com/ (it's been around for a very long time). With proper know-how it really is shocking to hear what some pro-builders can do with legit bullshit-quality audio gear.
I have a new (still in the box) Eclipse 55090 unit waiting to be installed along with some other cool stuff - no subs though.
anyhow, good luck.
haha
01-31-10, 11:44 PM
#18
well, if youre looking for advice or a good setup diagram, then you should have asked lol.
anyways, this is true, some builder (steven mead) can build some omfgmyearsarebleeding systems with crap. in my experience, if you want to kill alot of the echo-iness of most speakers if they are mounted in the doors, they sell this rubber enclosure that goes behind the speaker, sorta creating a solobaric enclosure. it makes the speakers sound crispier and respond better.
post pics of the amp, what kind of tuning capabalities does it have?
if you are running 2 amps, i suggest a spilt from the main power wire, into a duel wire block, equal length wire to each amp, put the hpf on the amp to the speakers and the lpf for the sub, it will make the whole system come alive.
on your deck, if it has the capability, set the mail filter to hpf and tune from there. everything will sound good.
and i meant good wire like monster or jl audio wire, the core wire material can change the whole dynamics of the system.
Lloyd
anyways, this is true, some builder (steven mead) can build some omfgmyearsarebleeding systems with crap. in my experience, if you want to kill alot of the echo-iness of most speakers if they are mounted in the doors, they sell this rubber enclosure that goes behind the speaker, sorta creating a solobaric enclosure. it makes the speakers sound crispier and respond better.
post pics of the amp, what kind of tuning capabalities does it have?
if you are running 2 amps, i suggest a spilt from the main power wire, into a duel wire block, equal length wire to each amp, put the hpf on the amp to the speakers and the lpf for the sub, it will make the whole system come alive.
on your deck, if it has the capability, set the mail filter to hpf and tune from there. everything will sound good.
and i meant good wire like monster or jl audio wire, the core wire material can change the whole dynamics of the system.
Lloyd
02-01-10, 05:58 AM
#19
well, if youre looking for advice or a good setup diagram, then you should have asked lol.
anyways, this is true, some builder (steven mead) can build some omfgmyearsarebleeding systems with crap. in my experience, if you want to kill alot of the echo-iness of most speakers if they are mounted in the doors, they sell this rubber enclosure that goes behind the speaker, sorta creating a solobaric enclosure. it makes the speakers sound crispier and respond better.
post pics of the amp, what kind of tuning capabalities does it have?
if you are running 2 amps, i suggest a spilt from the main power wire, into a duel wire block, equal length wire to each amp, put the hpf on the amp to the speakers and the lpf for the sub, it will make the whole system come alive.
on your deck, if it has the capability, set the mail filter to hpf and tune from there. everything will sound good.
and i meant good wire like monster or jl audio wire, the core wire material can change the whole dynamics of the system.
Lloyd
anyways, this is true, some builder (steven mead) can build some omfgmyearsarebleeding systems with crap. in my experience, if you want to kill alot of the echo-iness of most speakers if they are mounted in the doors, they sell this rubber enclosure that goes behind the speaker, sorta creating a solobaric enclosure. it makes the speakers sound crispier and respond better.
post pics of the amp, what kind of tuning capabalities does it have?
if you are running 2 amps, i suggest a spilt from the main power wire, into a duel wire block, equal length wire to each amp, put the hpf on the amp to the speakers and the lpf for the sub, it will make the whole system come alive.
on your deck, if it has the capability, set the mail filter to hpf and tune from there. everything will sound good.
and i meant good wire like monster or jl audio wire, the core wire material can change the whole dynamics of the system.
Lloyd
Why dont you offer something legit eh?
In terms of wire - do you honestly think this guy is shooting for SQ? Listen I'm not trying to pick on anyone here but let's look at a few things:
a) the guy probably isn't loaded with cash, otherwise he probably would have bought rainbow or focal.. yanno.. legit high end stuff.. not that crap JL you keep mentioning.
b) if money isn't the problem for the OP then he just doesn't care as long as he's got "better than stock" stuff.
So again, to the OP, I'm not picking on your quality of parts here.. I'm just saying that being a little observant - you probably aren't shooting for real high-end junk like that, so with that mind, why in the hell didn't you guys pick up on this? eh?
anyhow - OP.. forget these Bozo's and hit up the link I posted and see what those guys can offer you in terms of aid/help - you surely aren't getting it here (shame on you guys again!).
now, if it were me.. I would look for more specific wire (opposed to what that bozo was saying about "JL wire" - which is probably ordinary copper wire). There are little tricks you can pull off - for example, since you know the peak rating for the amp(s) and speakers, etc... you can easily figure out the proper gage wire by using Ohm's Law (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law) and looking at the different types of wire you've got avail to you and comparing their rating(s) based on your needs. My insider tip for you would be to look at milspec cable/wire M22759/32 or M27500.. point is, the higher grade wire (depending on the configuration) will be coated in silver, pure silver - real audio nuts go crazy for this stuff.. besides that its far better quality wire than the crap 'ol dude was suggesting..
perfect example is - you need to know the resistance (per ft) of the wire you plan to use.. then look at the resistance for the cable i mentioned.. you'll notice a few things but #1 noticeable key here is the high quality wire typically has a better resistance value (per ft or w/e) so that means to you that you can run a smaller gage (higher number) wire than vs. the "JL wire" that fool was talking about. ..but he's a pro so i'm sure he was going to mention that to you.
if you'd like some help sourcing better cable - send me a PM and I'll fill you in on what I know.
Last edited by hwnd; 02-01-10 at 06:03 AM.
02-01-10, 06:57 PM
#20
in my experience, if you want to kill alot of the echo-iness of most speakers if they are mounted in the doors, they sell this rubber enclosure that goes behind the speaker, sorta creating a solobaric enclosure. it makes the speakers sound crispier and respond better.
if you are running 2 amps, i suggest a spilt from the main power wire, into a duel wire block, equal length wire to each amp, put the hpf on the amp to the speakers and the lpf for the sub, it will make the whole system come alive.
on your deck, if it has the capability, set the mail filter to hpf and tune from there. everything will sound good.
and i meant good wire like monster or jl audio wire, the core wire material can change the whole dynamics of the system.
Lloyd
if you are running 2 amps, i suggest a spilt from the main power wire, into a duel wire block, equal length wire to each amp, put the hpf on the amp to the speakers and the lpf for the sub, it will make the whole system come alive.
on your deck, if it has the capability, set the mail filter to hpf and tune from there. everything will sound good.
and i meant good wire like monster or jl audio wire, the core wire material can change the whole dynamics of the system.
Lloyd
Understand that I'm not trying to be an *** or anything... but your choice of words (which I have bolded in your quote) make it clear that you aren't as much of a car audio expert as you portray. I hate to call you out, but it makes me anxious to see this continue..
Your install outline is pretty much the bare bones basic system of configuring car stereo which isn't beyond the grasp of anyone who understands the basics of car audio. I'm glad you have that down, but realize that there is a LOT more to configuring and tuning a stereo than what you said. I have the feeling that your "tuning" is nothing more than hooking everything up like you described and just turning ***** and pushing buttons until you like the way it sounds. Don't take that as a jab, but your use of the word "echo-iness" makes it clear that you have no formal education about sound. Factors that car audio professionals use to configure a professional system include things like: calculating the resonant frequency of the cabin, phasing and time alignment, choosing crossover slopes and points based on the thiele/small specs of the speakers, designing enclosures for each component based on the t/s specs, positioning each component in the optimal spot for a compromise between excessive resonance and cancellation due to standing waves, how to position components to deliver the best soundstage, etc.
When a professional "tunes" a system, he listens to things like transient response, subwoofer delay, and tunes out any peaks or dips in his overall response curve through his EQ (not the 3 or 5 band ones that are built in to the cd player). In fact, an expert does no tuning through his deck.. his inboard amplifiers and signal controls are all defeated (because he has a high end deck which is capable of this), and he does his tuning through his external equalizers and crossovers.
It's also a dead give-away that you are an amateur by the fact that you are saying "xxxx brand sucks, they don't make anything good". You won't ever hear a true expert say anything of that nature because they are capable of making almost any grade of speaker sound "good" to the average person and realize that brand-bashing is simply naive. More than just "flip the switch on the speaker amp to high pass filter and it makes them sound good".
So please, quit trying to patronize everyone by thinking you are the **** of the walk with car stereos because you have installed 40 of them. It's embarrassing to the high end audio enthusiast to see people say things that you are saying. "Solobaric" is a line of subwoofers made by kicker, not a type of enclosure.. you could be thinking of isobaric?.. which isn't correct for how you referenced it.
Oh, and this is coming from someone who competed and won many exhibitions of both USACI outlaw spl and IASCA SQi pro while still in high school and went to college to study both livesound and recording studio techniques. Car audio seems like such childplay in comparison when you have to design a recording studio..
02-02-10, 03:43 AM
#21
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^ owned lol jk
well it might have sounded like a noob about systems n stuff (when i posted this thread up), but really im not.. ive myself installed many sound systems from different brands names and companies... to me i personally like kicker and which is why decided to use most of there products in my sound system set up.. i currently have all kicker KS series speakers all around and a 12"cvr.. and i just bought a KX3 Active Electronic Crossover to complete my speaker set up....
pinknuggit: your a crazy man!! you just schooled me in what you know about audio lol
i hope no one is getting offended by anyone trying to show how much they "know" about car systems or audio set ups.. i just simply wanted to share that i have a new set of speakers and building my kicker sound system.
well it might have sounded like a noob about systems n stuff (when i posted this thread up), but really im not.. ive myself installed many sound systems from different brands names and companies... to me i personally like kicker and which is why decided to use most of there products in my sound system set up.. i currently have all kicker KS series speakers all around and a 12"cvr.. and i just bought a KX3 Active Electronic Crossover to complete my speaker set up....
pinknuggit: your a crazy man!! you just schooled me in what you know about audio lol
i hope no one is getting offended by anyone trying to show how much they "know" about car systems or audio set ups.. i just simply wanted to share that i have a new set of speakers and building my kicker sound system.
02-02-10, 04:02 AM
#22
na man - we are just trying to help ya and maybe weed out the bad info to others who might come along behind you in time to come..
they will read "buy JL wire" and "kick sucks".. and that stuff just isn't true. I dont think anyones feelings were hurt but I really dont think the advice/info/etc given in this thread was correct.
now there is a better light.. right? :-)
they will read "buy JL wire" and "kick sucks".. and that stuff just isn't true. I dont think anyones feelings were hurt but I really dont think the advice/info/etc given in this thread was correct.
now there is a better light.. right? :-)
02-02-10, 05:43 PM
#23
I wasn't trying to school or own anyone, rather put things into perspective. Nothing irritates audio people more than hearing someone say "should have gone with (xxxxmy favorite brandxxxx)", or "I hope you aren't running (xxxxxx)".. and then use words like "echo-iness".
Another fact that puts brand bashing into perspective - I placed 5th out of 18 overall in my first IASCA SQi pro class event with a pair of 20$ partsexpress Goldwood woofers (with little vinyl focal logo stickers on the dustcaps) installed in ported kickpanels in my single cab truck.
Another fact that puts brand bashing into perspective - I placed 5th out of 18 overall in my first IASCA SQi pro class event with a pair of 20$ partsexpress Goldwood woofers (with little vinyl focal logo stickers on the dustcaps) installed in ported kickpanels in my single cab truck.
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