GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

I did here something about the thermostat thing. But I didn't really understand. I'll take it back tomorrow.
I did not know about the carb spray thing though. I'll be sure to remember that. I don't need to clean that anyways so I'll be fine. But why couldn't I use it?

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

The carb only cleaner has chemicals in it that typically damage sensors on throttle bodies. Just use throttle body cleaner for cleaning specifically that. Carb cleaner is awesome for everything else....well, except for cleaning your paint (unless you are trying to remove that also).

I also don't understand why the Stant products and rotaries don't get along. Everyone that I personally know that has used Stant products on their rotaries have had failures. Most were immediate, just as my last one. I sold parts for years at a local parts store in AL (years ago), and we never had any problems out of Stant items, unless it was rotary related. IT's a mystery!

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

Hmm that pretty odd. Yeah I'll deffinately take it back tomorrow.

Maybe I can use the carb cleaner on my door. lol
The throttle body and UIM have been off the car for quite some time, so they dont need to be cleaned like everything else. But I am going to clean and paint the UIM seperate from the throttle body. Im using the TMIC so the tb won't be seen anyways.


I actually just relized, there isn't really any benefit to painting some of the things. At least, it won't turn out like I want it to with out changing the manifold's surface texture... I don't know. I'm tired.

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

Update, anyone? I think so.

First, I'd like to see if there is something different about my turbo.





The PO told me that the old turbo failed or something and this was the replacement. Well none of the oil/water inlet/outlets match up to anything. I even still have some parts from the old turbo. What should I do about this?

I was able to clean up the engine bay a tad. I may need to not dillute the simple green as much because it wasn't cutting as much as I would have liked.


My fuel pump: For some reason, I didn't take a picture when I got the new pump on. But I scrubbed everything down and it's much cleaner now.


Heres some parts I scrubbed with a wire brush as much as I could.




.....

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

I started getting to the smaller parts and decided not to clean every single little thing.
Here's the MOP.

As you can see, it's a little dirty. lol

But not for long.

And with all the other things that got cleaned up really well.


Throttle body, I went off the advice of jtpshaw and did not use carb spray on it.

And after cleaning, removing all of the unneeded stuff, and mounting it the the UIM.


I decided at this point, since I'm at a standstill, that I would loosely install all the big things and see how it'll turn out. Nothing is torqued yet. I like it.

Just a cool picture, I wish it didn't turn out so fuzzy. I need a better camera before I leave in April.



...

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

I feel confidenent in my ability to get this thing running.




And I thought I'd give everyone a view of my working space. I'm lucky that the weather has been great and kind. Although, it does get down to the 40s passed 6pm.



A list for the things I need to do before startup.
Need- big vacuum caps, JB stick weld for the throttle body, and power(battery).
-rebuild or replace clutch master and slave cylinder
-MOP lines
-fuel lines
-vacuum/boost lines
-fix parts of the wire harness(will need help)
-clean gas tank(any suggestions?)

And once it starts and runs, I'll send the fuel injectors out to get cleaned up.

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

Here's a question. where do these big nipples go, and what do I do with them?


I took off the dashpots, double throttle linkage and stuff, fast cam idle and spring, and thermowax. So I'm not sure whatelse I need to do here.
I know that the big nipple in the white elipse goes to the oil injectors. But what about the rest? Is the blue circle the brake booster line? Where does the twin scroll vacuum line connect?

I have lots of questions. lol

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Looks like you are making some good progress , Gordon. And gezz!, 40s for the low. It never got out of the 30s for the high here today. It will be in the 20s within the next few hours and warm up to a balmy 46 tomorrow. Appreciate your warm weather young grasshopper. lol

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

Oh I know. Im trying to take advantage of it while I can. I gotta get this heap on the road before I move out to PA on my own.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

maybe youve already mentioned it but what is the known condition of the engine??

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

I was told by the PO that it ran until the old turbo blew up. He was unaware of any rebuilds in the past. But, when I started turning the engine over by hand, I got really solid puffs of air out of the spark plug holes on each rotor. So I'm almost positive that this with run for a little bit.

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

Does anyone have any answers for my questions??
I posted a forsale thread for a bunch of stuff last night, but it hasn't come up yet.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

look here buddy and you will find all the locations for you vac nipples.

You WILL need this FSM..its your friend: http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/

Section 4B is where your answers are.

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Your for sale threads have to approved before they are displayed. If you didn't follow all the rules perfectly, the mods won't approve your thread and you will not be notified. You can PM Mar3 or another mod and see if they can see if it was approved or not.

About your engine's health, turning it over by hand is only a simple test, but no where near accurate. If by turning the engine by hand, you get three stron and consistant pulses out of your exhaust per rotor housing, then chances are much higher that your engine is decent. Then you have your piston engine compression tester methods that is just about as accurate as turning it by hand. At least you see a # on the piston tester (you must remove the check valve in the tester). I have a digital Mazda rotary engine tester that I may be willing to let you borrow.

I see Murray just answered all your other questions about the vacuum ports.

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

Here's my sale thread
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-parts-194/s4-parts-interior-exterior-emissions-s5-mirrors-930766/

Turns out I forgot to select the state symbol. Ahhh! lol

I read the whole 4b section of the FSM. I guess I know where some of the things go. And more information that I didn't know. Like, that the dashpots are used for deceleration. Will there be a huge difference with them removed? I don't want to be doing 100 down the road and not be able to stop...

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

Also, I'm seriously considering putting the hotstart assist back on(isn't that the thing on the inside of the lower intake manifold, that's connected to the coolant tank on the firewall) since I'll be moving up north. Suggestions? This probably wont be for a couple of months though.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Dashpot is a good thing.

Hot start assist not near as important as your BAC cold start assist.

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

And if I'm not mistaken, the BAC is how I adjust the idle? Without it, I'd have to use the locknut and flathead screw on the back of the TB. I think I'll leave it off for now, and in a couple months, I'll consider putting it back on.

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

I did a little bit of tinkering tonight. Nothing major. I fully installed my air pump to take a picture of it to sell it. (it's off now)


Then I started trying to figure out my intake piping and mocked it up on the turbo that needs to either be rebuilt or replaced since nothing lines up right on it.

(think the green tape would hold up for even startup?)
I need that coupler and the elbow to the intercooler and I'll be grand(good).

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

I suppose this thread should be called, "GordiniRX7's 87 TII Extremely Slow Progress Thread." I'm not even close to "build thread" status. I'm even considering selling this turd because of how much crap I find. It's going to take months to get this thing even running. *sadface*

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

i wouldn't blame you for selling it. it's way too much work then its needed. i'm sure you can sell it and find a shell in better condition. but it is your car and i was told my car was crap when i bought it but damn i get complements on my car now =). yes sometimes people confuse it with a camaro or probe or even a celica. here are some of the things i've done to my car which aint far off from what your doing.

clean it inside out
replace engine
clean engine bay
swap wheels 4 times!
swap seats 3 times (currently installing civic seats so 4 times)
purchase interior parts (storage bins, vents, handles, shifter boot and **** and surround, pedals,)
full tune up
speedometer cable
clutch
clutch throw out bearing
light bulbs
manual rack swap
fix heater

yeah its not major stuff, but it adds up. and i'm happy that i did it my self (with some help from others)

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

I think my main priority right now is to not worry so much about my car, and work as much as possible. Without the money, there is no car.
Also, people need to buy the tish that I don't want!

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

YAYYY an update.

Let's start off with the worst part of the week. I was "let go" from my job at the car wash.
So my plans changed. Happy birthday I guess (birthday's in a week). So I decided to just wash the car, and maybe a cleaner car would give me more of a drive to keep going with this project.






I'm gonna have to go back and try to polish out some of the gunk. You can see where the crappy repaint has come away on the door. The passenger side door was replaced at some point.

Got the fuel lines ran.


Finnally grew some ***** and messed with my turbo.


Comparing an extra turbine housing that I have.



...

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

Then lunch


This was much easier than I expected.




Then I stopped procrastinating and finnally installed my MOP lines. Still have to get my oil injectors off of the housings. Any tips? I decided to reinstal the factory sleeves, but I'm going to have to replace one.




I went over to Advanced and had them test my alternator. At first, it wasn't doing a thing, and I was about to just sell the whole car. Then the guy did something different and the meter shot up to about 14.2-14.5. So I was happy and bought some bolts for the oil feed/return. (:
But now I have to do something about this cracked up wire harness.


And as the daylight quickly retreated, I decided to put the front of the car up on jackstands and get under it for a few hours. I took off my starter to have it tested aswell and started cleaning everything up a bit.


Will have after pictures when I'm done.
I have a problem though; when I took off the lower, short starter bolt, it wasn't all that tight. I got it off and I looked at the bolt and it had the threads from the bellhousing on it. So I attempted to put the bolt back in and it won't tighten at all. Can someone help me out here?

Here is how I left the engine bay.


Lower intake manifold is mounted for good(I remembered the o-ring this time). water pump and housing, along with the alternator, is mounted. I need to buy 11 or 12 exhaust nuts and some more M8 x 20/25mm bolts for a bunch of other things. fix some of my wire harness crapouts. And we'll go from there.

GordiniRX7

iTrader: (10)

Can anyone tell me what all of these broken or clipped wires go to?