Finished my $30 paint job
02-07-08, 07:21 PM
#52
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im going the cheap way too but im doing it ina booth with single stage paint, my freind just did it on his civic and after you wetsand it looks pretty awesome...paints and materials is like 200 but thats alot better than say 500-700
02-07-08, 07:27 PM
#53
I'm sure that Zaino stuff (or whatever) is what helped your paint. Clay-bars are basically worthless compared to a high-speed//machine polishing tool with good pads and compound. There's just no comparison.
Haha, the only reason I say this is because I have friends who insist on "claying" their cars on a semi-consistent basis and it does nowhere near what a machine-polish can do, BUT it takes almost as long...
Haha, the only reason I say this is because I have friends who insist on "claying" their cars on a semi-consistent basis and it does nowhere near what a machine-polish can do, BUT it takes almost as long...
In short, I'd try clay and Zaino before you pony up for a new paint job.
Last edited by ericgrau; 02-07-08 at 07:52 PM.
02-07-08, 11:34 PM
#55
~Knowledge of the correct "order of operations" IE, when to do each step
~Knowledge of how to use a gun (or be prepared for a steep learning-curve)
~Large, clean garage with at least basic tools, a workbench and a hose would be nice
~Decent air-compressor with all accessories/hoses/fittings/regulator(s)/water-trap(s)
~Decent gun, suitable for the specs of your compressor, plus all cleaning accessories and a stand for refills
~Wax and grease remover
~Clean rags/towels
~Tack-cloths
~Good lighting
~Several box-fans
~Plastic drop-cloths
~Assorted sand-paper with several different sized sanding-blocks
~Suitable body-filler for dings
~Suitable primer for body-filler and paint
~Dust-masks
~Paint/chemical filtration-respirator
~Eye-protection (or not)
~Lightweight paint-suit (fairly cheap)
~Single-stage paint with reducer/activator/fish-eye etc.
~Several large painting/measuring buckets
~Several smaller measuring cups
~Several pouring (style) cups
~Stirring-sticks
~Paint-strainers
Something to that effect would be pretty close to the DIY mandatory-minimum IMO... I did my first DIY "real" paint-job without knowing what was necessary and it was NOT FUN AT ALL, lol. Don't get me wrong--it turned out just fine when ALL was said and done, but "painting day" was basically a nightmare... Poor lighting, poor, 'undersized' equipment (think air-compressor), "on the job" learning, messy/sticky work-station. I spent several days cleaning up my mess with various wet-sanding sessions. I had tiger-stripes, HUGE sags and runs, tons of general orange-peel texture, dry "fuzzy" sections... Yeah, this was when I started appreciating "finishing and restoration" techniques.
I think my first job was around $400 for paint/supplies/air-compressor rental etc. I would not recommend doing it the hard-way though. I spent well over 10 hours researching and agonizing over the pre-painting details and it was STILL a PITA.
Great forum resource:
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/
02-08-08, 12:02 AM
#56
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Thanks for the compliments and other reactions. I'm pretty pleased with it.
240 wet sand, since I was pressed for time.
You're absolutely right. My goal was literally to have the car look good from 15 ft away and to prevent rust. It does that.
I've never been into spending big money on this ride, though I wish i could. It's my rat-rod, hence the 626 lip and $40 set of wheels. hehe
240 wet sand, since I was pressed for time.
You're absolutely right. My goal was literally to have the car look good from 15 ft away and to prevent rust. It does that.
I've never been into spending big money on this ride, though I wish i could. It's my rat-rod, hence the 626 lip and $40 set of wheels. hehe
Ah! So THATS what it was! Boro FC!!!! I'm doing that now that the secret is out, thanks!
And the paintjob is perfect! It's flat, but not TOO flat, I think this would work great on a rally project car!
02-08-08, 03:40 AM
#60
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I'd rather pay someone else to do a proper job with the right tools in a workshop cos if they stuff it up they have to redo it at their expense.
I can understand people wanting to try it themselves and save money, but its not worth the time it takes to do it properly.
Thats just my opinion. I can do without the stress of worrying about the thickness of coats or the temperature or if i sanded it properly or i'm just rushing it to get it finished. And not having the right tools or patience.
I can understand people wanting to try it themselves and save money, but its not worth the time it takes to do it properly.
Thats just my opinion. I can do without the stress of worrying about the thickness of coats or the temperature or if i sanded it properly or i'm just rushing it to get it finished. And not having the right tools or patience.
02-08-08, 03:51 AM
#61
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anyone have this evo mr paint on FC http://home.comcast.net/~sahmto3/Evo..._Evo_IX_MR.jpg
02-08-08, 01:07 PM
#63
Nice work guys, bang:buck ratio looks pretty good.
I've done some "garage body-man" stuff myself, though I did a bare metal strip + bodywork + full "proper" paint system. It's a ton of work and a lot of chemical exposure. I'll be doing it again this summer, and applying what I learned on the last paint job. Luckily I prepped well and just need to knock off a little of the color/clear coats and respray them. My prime/body work was very good.
Nice part about the paint on that car, is it's rather easy to fix any chips/scratches/dings when you have a Rustoleum paint job.
I've done some "garage body-man" stuff myself, though I did a bare metal strip + bodywork + full "proper" paint system. It's a ton of work and a lot of chemical exposure. I'll be doing it again this summer, and applying what I learned on the last paint job. Luckily I prepped well and just need to knock off a little of the color/clear coats and respray them. My prime/body work was very good.
Nice part about the paint on that car, is it's rather easy to fix any chips/scratches/dings when you have a Rustoleum paint job.
02-09-08, 01:21 AM
#64
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Man, where the hell is "michaeli" at? He should chime in on this, with his private heated/ventilated paintbooth, plus teh "l33t sKi11z" and all.
Come on, someone post a likn to that thread! i'm too lazy..
Come on, someone post a likn to that thread! i'm too lazy..
02-09-08, 02:46 AM
#65
I'd rather pay someone else to do a proper job with the right tools in a workshop cos if they stuff it up they have to redo it at their expense.
I can understand people wanting to try it themselves and save money, but its not worth the time it takes to do it properly.
Thats just my opinion. I can do without the stress of worrying about the thickness of coats or the temperature or if i sanded it properly or i'm just rushing it to get it finished. And not having the right tools or patience.
I can understand people wanting to try it themselves and save money, but its not worth the time it takes to do it properly.
Thats just my opinion. I can do without the stress of worrying about the thickness of coats or the temperature or if i sanded it properly or i'm just rushing it to get it finished. And not having the right tools or patience.
Great job to the OP, I'd much rather see rattle canned FC's than crappy chipped/faded/rusted ones. Looks like you took the extra time and effort to make it perfect and it turned out great
02-09-08, 01:46 PM
#66
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I'd rather pay someone else to do a proper job with the right tools in a workshop cos if they stuff it up they have to redo it at their expense.
I can understand people wanting to try it themselves and save money, but its not worth the time it takes to do it properly.
Thats just my opinion. I can do without the stress of worrying about the thickness of coats or the temperature or if i sanded it properly or i'm just rushing it to get it finished. And not having the right tools or patience.
I can understand people wanting to try it themselves and save money, but its not worth the time it takes to do it properly.
Thats just my opinion. I can do without the stress of worrying about the thickness of coats or the temperature or if i sanded it properly or i'm just rushing it to get it finished. And not having the right tools or patience.
I could see that if mabey my car was for show.
I'm down with primer paint jobs and zip tied bumpers 4 life.
To many little miss hap's to worry about if you spend more money on a paint job then the car.
Specialy drifting you can't be
"MY PAINT JOB!"I'd want know my car is just protected from rust cause it's like cancer, it nearly imposible to stop it. Primer = Buddy
Keep in mind this is just OPION of mine and quote above. AND I DO see what your saying. You just might have a show car I don't know.
02-09-08, 05:19 PM
#67
^ wtf you took my other screen name, I thought I posted here my self. But then I forgot I have myself super old one for rx7club, that hurts 
Sorry for the useless post, but my name: rotoree got jacked. People know me by that name on other forums and I don't want em to get confused.
Sorry for the useless post, but my name: rotoree got jacked. People know me by that name on other forums and I don't want em to get confused.
02-09-08, 06:40 PM
#68
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To the original poster:
If you don't care about orange-peel or surface imperfections, I would DEFINITELY wet-sand your car with 2000 grit paper, and then rent/borrow a high-speed (rotary) polishing tool. Buy two circular foam pads, meant for use with your tool. One a "cutting" pad, and the other a "polishing" pad. Buy some heavy "cutting" compound--Maguiers or 3M, and then some polishing/swirl-removing compound.
Wetsand with 2000, wash and dry the car and then use the foam cutting pad, and heavy compound and just buff/cut one section of a panel at a time. After you're done with (for example) a fender, come back and wipe off all of the excess compound. It's best to not use too much compound, because it can start to make a mess and soil your cleaning rags pretty quickly (and get in every crack). Do the entire car with the heavy compound and finish with the swirl-removing compound. Use different rags/towels to wipe off the swirl/polish compound.
Your car will look 100x better. I'm surprised at how few people actually know how easy it is to restore paint (or dramatically improve $30 paint-jobs).
This is one of my RX-7's that had CRAPPY, spider-webbed, scratched, dull and neglected stock paint when I got it... WISH I had before pics to show you. Anyways, one Saturday and $70 for supplies got me an AWESOME finish:
My daily-driver after a cut and buff, with previously oxidized, 22 year old paint OEM paint:
Old TII when I got it--with generic rattle-can flat-black:
After a 2000grit WET-SANDED, $80 Krylon semi-flat job:
My point is: AFTER painting is just as important as the painting itself. You won't regret "finishing" it.
If you don't care about orange-peel or surface imperfections, I would DEFINITELY wet-sand your car with 2000 grit paper, and then rent/borrow a high-speed (rotary) polishing tool. Buy two circular foam pads, meant for use with your tool. One a "cutting" pad, and the other a "polishing" pad. Buy some heavy "cutting" compound--Maguiers or 3M, and then some polishing/swirl-removing compound.
Wetsand with 2000, wash and dry the car and then use the foam cutting pad, and heavy compound and just buff/cut one section of a panel at a time. After you're done with (for example) a fender, come back and wipe off all of the excess compound. It's best to not use too much compound, because it can start to make a mess and soil your cleaning rags pretty quickly (and get in every crack). Do the entire car with the heavy compound and finish with the swirl-removing compound. Use different rags/towels to wipe off the swirl/polish compound.
Your car will look 100x better. I'm surprised at how few people actually know how easy it is to restore paint (or dramatically improve $30 paint-jobs
).This is one of my RX-7's that had CRAPPY, spider-webbed, scratched, dull and neglected stock paint when I got it... WISH I had before pics to show you. Anyways, one Saturday and $70 for supplies got me an AWESOME finish:
My daily-driver after a cut and buff, with previously oxidized, 22 year old paint OEM paint:
Old TII when I got it--with generic rattle-can flat-black:
After a 2000grit WET-SANDED, $80 Krylon semi-flat job:
My point is: AFTER painting is just as important as the painting itself. You won't regret "finishing" it.
02-10-08, 04:25 AM
#74
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Just looks like he lowered it in photoshop from the wheel wells and left muffler. w/e I used to do it all the time to my old cars when they had stock suspension, just was a little more tidy with the work
-metal
-metal
