john smack

iTrader: (12)

Take the hatch tumbler out and take it to a lock smith to get a new key cut, That should work if not the passenger door tumbler should have a code on it

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

I've got a microtech lt10 for sale! Much less than $1000 pmd u

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

Yea u literally can just plug the lt10 right into those plugs. I pmd u about a microtech I'm selling. Lets make a deal!

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Planning on Auto-x'ing the FC? They're fun to toss around corners

nodestination1

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, that's a good idea. I went to the closest Mazda dealership to have them cut a key based off the VIN. They had to order a couple blanks though, so I'm still waiting for them to come in. For $13 I think it's worth a try. If that doesn't work I'll definitely take it to a locksmith.

I'm definitely not opposed to it! That shot is from the annual 3S national gathering in Indianapolis. They set up a great 1.3m autocross (along with a 3+mile road course)! The VR4 was surprisingly competent, loads of traction and instant spool. They're a little prone to understeer though, and wide as hell. Not what I'd call "nimble". After driving my 944 the VR4 was like captaining a yacht. Next summer I'll keep an eye out for autox around here so I can give the RX some practice. ...assuming it's running by then :-)

nodestination1

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I have an update. I got a key cut at mazda... only took a little over an hour for them to figure it out. It works in the driver's door lock and the ignition, but not the passenger side.
I hooked up a charged battery and started testing stuff out. The exterior lights work - the hazards, tails, turns, the headlight motors, etc. But nothing else gets power. No wipers, horn, windows, dome lights. I haven't had much time to look into it... but I was wondering if any of that stuff might be affected by the lack of an ECU. On my Mitsu and some other cars I've dealt with, there is a ETACS or similar computer for controlling basic functions. I saw a small module by the glovebox that wasn't plugged into anything.

Also - I want to bump the starter just to see if the engine turns over. I don't know how long the car has been sitting and I'm considering putting some oil in the plugs to keep everything lubed. What would you do in my situation?
Also also - the pulsation damper is stock and old looking. I'll replace or banjo it before I do any real driving.

Thanks everyone!
KS

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Only thing affected by the replacement of the stock ECU with a Standalone is the wipers - the wiring of it which should have been separated from the stock engine harness, if the PO did it. Everything else should work.

If you ever wanted air conditioning again, there are two wires you can jumper on the factory body harness plug that plugged into the stock ECU. I can't remember which at this time unfortunately.

jamaul08

Very nice find

JROD1987

For only a stack, you can't beat that. Looks like you even got some extras too.
Awesome

seandizzie

iTrader: (1)

I understand how police impound and sell off peoples ****...

So do you have a title yet?

Seeing as your posting pic on the web and such you might wana change the locks...wouldn't be hard to find and steal back seeing as the owner of the car has the key.

nodestination1

iTrader: (2)

Ok, finally got under this bad biatch.









Bit of a leaky trans


Found some more markings on the turbo. The bottom of the comp housing reads 12068-6. still no idea what it is, but it's not stock. I guess I'll just wait and see what happens when I get it on a dyno.
What is this 'rigged BS? PO put a cable around the motor mount to hold this flap open. It looks kind of like a wastegate flap but I know it's not. I was guessing it has to do with the dual vane turbo?





Also - assuming red bushings aren't stock.

EPD

iTrader: (8)

correct the engine mounts are not stock. Also p/o wired open the twin scroll flapper door.

I'm jealous of your lift! what kind is it? I am in the market for one that will fit in my garage too.

nodestination1

iTrader: (2)

Ok, thank you, that's what I thought on both counts. I'll have to do some research on the pros/cons of keeping the scroll flapper door open. (I'm not leaving that wire mess there!)

Thanks! It's a Benwil TP7. I got in on Craigslist for $800. Benwils are ancient- they went out of business a long time ago, but they supplied GM and chrysler dealerships with all their lifts in the 80s/90s. They are incredibly well made, simple, and parts are cheap/available. It's also ALI certified, which means it can safely lift 150% of it's rated capacity (7000lbs). Many lifts made today are from China and not ALI.
It was in really rough shape when I got it, so I went through it, stripped it and refinished it. Took a couple months. I also wired and installed it myself, so if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. I have some great installation tips!

Some before pics:

Okieflyfisher

You got a steal of a deal

nodestination1

iTrader: (2)

Finally did something to the RX7! I replaced the missing FTP lens, lol.

Ok, seriously though, I found an LT10s I'm going to make an offer on.
Now the fun part - getting it to run. More questions:

I'm pretty sure it'll get fuel, but I'm concerned with spark.
I don't know what the car has for coils - looks to be a direct fire setup? maybe?
I want to get rid of the hacky, ugly coil setup the car has. I figure I can only tune it properly if I know what I've got.

I'm thinking about going back to stock coils - I read that you can use the stock ones with the x4 if you remove the igniters.
In my research I've also heard of people running the lt10 without the x4.
Seems like the x4 is kind of a PITA and prone to overheating, so maybe I'll get rid of it.

Using a laptop, is there a way to set up the lt10s to work with or without the x4? or does it come from microtech set up one way or the other?


Also been shopping around for cheap track wheels/tires. I'm leaning towards picking up some mustang rims and slapping on a set of hankook ventus r-S3s.

nodestination1

iTrader: (2)

It's ALIVE!!!!

well, sort of. It just ran for the first time (accidentally) for several seconds... without a manifold or any fuel injectors!?

Since I lasted updated the thread I wired up a microtech lt10s and picked up some stock 550s to get a base tune. (turns out it had 720s for primaries and 1000 secondaries). I found a fuel leak at the rail and was working on replacing the rails/injectors. I knew it was getting spark, so I thought maybe it was getting too much fuel or none at all. I was testing the injectors when it happened. Scared the sh*t outta me.
I had the fuel pump disconnected. The secondaries were in but the primary injectors were out of their holes. I had a rag under the primary rail and I had a stethoscope on one of them to listen for clicking. I was alone, bumping the starter to turn it over with a 12v wire to the battery. All of a sudden it fired up and revved out of control, as there was no throttle plate to restrict airflow.

It's still sort of confusing... all I can think is that some residual fuel in the lines leaked into the holes for the primaries and allowed it to run. maybe next time I'll disconnect the coils

KenGT

I need to check Craigslist more often! Keep up the good work!

RedRooster

Great story man!! Keep finding those stellar DEALS!!

nodestination1

iTrader: (2)

Just thought I post a quick update on this budget build.
It took a lot of time and effort, but I got the car running and driving fairly well. I took the car to get dyno tuned at a local shop that specializes in mazdas. It made 275.5whp... at only 6,000rpms. The S4 wastegate was causing some major boost creep, nearly 15psi by 6500rpms. The stock primaries and 720ccs couldn't keep up and were leaning out. There is no doubt this car is capable of 300+whp with some light tweaks. Also, I found out the car had an S5 motor swapped.

I have loved working on this car and I've totally fallen in love with all things rotary.





^did an S5 front end, new wheels, tires, brakes, yadda yadda.