ALRIGHT IT'S KILLING ME!! What wheels would look good on my FC???
So........I ended up getting a steal and got some 17x8 +28, 17x9 +29 Work Equips 5 Spoke. I couldn't turn down the offer. 
My next little obstickle is to decide what sixe side will series I want to order. 40 or 45mm????
Reason I am up in the air is because of my Tanabe GF210 set up and the amount of wheel gap I have in my wheel well. My 16'' SSR's measure a diameter of 24.5 '' Front and 25.5 '' rear. See the pics of my fender gap....
Anyway if I run 45 series on Nitto NT555's the diameters are: Front 25'' and Rear 26''.
40 series will be: Front 24.1 '' and rears 25.1''
I know the 45 series will fill my fenders perfectly BUT I will have to roll my fender lip, while the 40 series will make the gap slightly larger.
Anyone know if the difference in series is noticable in "flex"? My 50 series on my SSR's was noticable but made the ride a little nicer.
I may just get coilovers this tax season so this may be just me wasting time lol. I am alos considering Falken FK-425 tires. Any other tire brands that you guys recommend for UHP summer is welcome.

My next little obstickle is to decide what sixe side will series I want to order. 40 or 45mm????
Reason I am up in the air is because of my Tanabe GF210 set up and the amount of wheel gap I have in my wheel well. My 16'' SSR's measure a diameter of 24.5 '' Front and 25.5 '' rear. See the pics of my fender gap....
Anyway if I run 45 series on Nitto NT555's the diameters are: Front 25'' and Rear 26''.
40 series will be: Front 24.1 '' and rears 25.1''
I know the 45 series will fill my fenders perfectly BUT I will have to roll my fender lip, while the 40 series will make the gap slightly larger.
Anyone know if the difference in series is noticable in "flex"? My 50 series on my SSR's was noticable but made the ride a little nicer.
I may just get coilovers this tax season so this may be just me wasting time lol. I am alos considering Falken FK-425 tires. Any other tire brands that you guys recommend for UHP summer is welcome.
I'd just go with 40 sidewall, easier to source, and you should stretch the tires for a more aggressive stance. Also if you're not running coilovers, the stretched tires may help you clear the suspension. Also - congrats on being part of the work equips club.
Just got my set back from new powdercoating, feast your eyes on these 17x10, and 17x11's.
Just got my set back from new powdercoating, feast your eyes on these 17x10, and 17x11's.
I dont know if 235 is gonna fit the with Tokico blues bro/ I have a 5mm spacer on there now but that helped clear the ol 225's lol.
Puhpaper; DAMN!! Nice color. I was possibly thinking streching 215's on the front but am a little relucant to lower my contact width.
Puhpaper; DAMN!! Nice color. I was possibly thinking streching 215's on the front but am a little relucant to lower my contact width.
Hm, IIRC - I had 225/40's on my 7.5" wheel in the front. You've got to make the decision because of the clearance issues. It's either going to be the suspension, the fender, or the tire that suffers.
I'd honestly say just throw down $1k for some coilovers. (that's if you've got money to spare)
I'd honestly say just throw down $1k for some coilovers. (that's if you've got money to spare)
There are standards when rolling on works. First the tires must have a stretch. 215/40 falken azenis will be the best looking and performing tire on the 8's. Bar None. 225/40 is hard to find for 17's but would be perfect for the rear.
Second, LOWER! Srsly
Second, LOWER! Srsly
^^ Exactly what I said.
You guys kill me . I am definately not gonna put 225 on the rear when 255 will fit. I will be putting around 400-420 rwhp(estimate but accurate) down at the dyno once break in is done and 225's wont cut it. I may do a slight strench on the front BUT I am looking at Stance coilovers as we speak. And YES I will lower it BUT only to an appropriate hieght to deal with Montana roads...............these roads are not like Cali when I lived there. Our weather beats the **** out of montana roads.
So I rolled my front fenders this morning using a Heat gun and a soft rubber body mallet.
The passenger side went very well with no cracking what so ever.



Unfortunately the damn drivers side fender was already previously "bitten" by my old wheels some time ago and pulled the lip out some and caused a small 2mm hairline crack. I TRIED MY BEST to keep that area hot with the gun to prevent cracking but it ended up spreading about 2 inches.
Anyway it is not too noticable but you can see it up close. Pisses me off since I am OCD but I will have to live with it. Nothing I can do now.


The DAMN crack. Touched it up some. It is on the "downward" angle of the fender but i really notice it in the shine off the clear when you move side to side looking at the shine on the fenders body lines
The passenger side went very well with no cracking what so ever.



Unfortunately the damn drivers side fender was already previously "bitten" by my old wheels some time ago and pulled the lip out some and caused a small 2mm hairline crack. I TRIED MY BEST to keep that area hot with the gun to prevent cracking but it ended up spreading about 2 inches.
Anyway it is not too noticable but you can see it up close. Pisses me off since I am OCD but I will have to live with it. Nothing I can do now.


The DAMN crack. Touched it up some. It is on the "downward" angle of the fender but i really notice it in the shine off the clear when you move side to side looking at the shine on the fenders body lines





. Super Chrome is the most expensive finish and looks great... Mirror finish


PM me a price.

