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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #26  
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Grips trollin HARD hahaha
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #27  
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I dont know how you can act like you take this thread seriously.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 11:18 PM
  #28  
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I hardly take anything seriously haha
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 05:02 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Grip
I dont know how you can act like you take this thread seriously.
Im laughing now because I agree with you for once.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 05:41 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by bunnybunny
Best bet is Malloy Mazda. But they won't be cheap.
the OP has bought many, many parts for his resto vert. Ordering doors is not rocket science, any dealer can pull it up in his computer and check the stock, there is no black magic in this process.

Are full doors available?
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 05:44 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bunnybunny
I've never seen metal worked to a perfectly straight finish. And I've never seen replacement panels that didn't need a light coat to smooth out.

you contradict yourself here, first you say you never seen metal worked to a perfect smooth finish, then you say you never seen replacement panels that didnt need a coat to smooth out, so in other words you have never seen a repainted or repaired car that had good body work on it. Which means you have never seen a true body man in action. Most guys that work in shops these days cant do bodywork, they replace.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 11:43 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
you contradict yourself here, first you say you never seen metal worked to a perfect smooth finish, then you say you never seen replacement panels that didnt need a coat to smooth out, so in other words you have never seen a repainted or repaired car that had good body work on it. Which means you have never seen a true body man in action. Most guys that work in shops these days cant do bodywork, they replace.
No. OP said he does not want any "mud" on his door panel, and if you can work metal, you can get anything perfectly smooth. I've NEVER seen a door skin worked that didn't need a light skin of filler to be perfect.

I've also not seen replacement panels installed that didn't need a light skin to smooth out a low spot. Actually I've not seen many vehicles that haven't been lightly skinned then block sanded smooth.

Then again.. Down here in the boondocks we just like the smell of Bondo so we use it on everything hahaha
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bunnybunny
No. OP said he does not want any "mud" on his door panel, and if you can work metal, you can get anything perfectly smooth. I've NEVER seen a door skin worked that didn't need a light skin of filler to be perfect.

I've also not seen replacement panels installed that didn't need a light skin to smooth out a low spot. Actually I've not seen many vehicles that haven't been lightly skinned then block sanded smooth.
Have you ever stripped a brand new door? YES *SOME* need a little spot maybe like a quarter size and very very thin here and there witch isn't a problem. But most do not have a skim coat of anything. I guess i should have taken a picture of the HD2500 bed side my father did yesterday and requires ZERO ANYTHING. you know how big that flat panel is? my door is 1/4 the size of that bed side.... get my drift...

I just seen a thread on here that lov-2-rev commented in...take a look at them pictures. you see that door, see that green stuff covering 75% of the door? (i know he shaved the molding) that's basically what you do to get a straight flat panel with the knowledge that gentlemen has (im assuming). I dont want that, alot of sanding and could cause problems 10+yrs from now. My father could work on the panels for a few weeks and get them very nice but i don't want him to do that, I would feel i have to pay him b/c it would be a PITA. When i received my hood (T2 aluminum) there was 11 dings in it. Now there is no dings, perfectly flat with no icing/ mud/ bondo whatever.

The only thing im trying to accomplish is finding out the price on new door skins. I called a few places with no luck.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #34  
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most of the dings in those hoods is from the adhesive holding the 2 halves together
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 12:05 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
most of the dings in those hoods is from the adhesive holding the 2 halves together
roger that. Yours looks pretty after you messed with it. I had a problem were some *** hat thought it would be good to keep pressing is palms on either side of the hood latch. It was also sunk in on the pass side of the hood scoop
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 02:47 PM
  #36  
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propane torch on the end of a long scraper did the trick, of course when you wax it it bumps around a bit, but better then filler on a black hood

My steel hood was PERFECT, and it was a $125 aftermarket hood, I mean it was flawless
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