I'm back again looking at another FC T2. This one is located in Florida and according to CarFax had about 133K miles as of January 2017 and is an original T2. He wants nothing less than $8K. He mentions it has no rust and currently has a base coat. I have listed the modifications below. He doesn't have a dyno sheet and was told HP is about 400. I plan to go get a dyno tune after purchasing so I know its done correctly. Below is a picture and a list of mods. I want to make sure this is in the ballpark for a FC. I've seen them range from $6500 (converted T2) to an all original 65K mile T2 for $10,500.



Engine
15 PSI/ 400 RWP - Street Tune by GringoSpeed
1987 T2 Motor Rebuilt Half Bridgeport - with Goopy Rebuild Kit and Stud Kit 100 Miles
BorgWarner T4 66/74 Turbo
Microtech LT10 ECU with Full Harness
455 Fuel Tank in pump
1000CC RC Primary Injectors
1500CC Secondary Injectors
Rotary Works 80mm throttle body
Rotary Works 3" Inlet Pipe
New Cut Rotor Housings
New Cut Rotors
New-Trust Bearing
Tial Wastegate
HKS SSQV BOV
Corksport Front Mount Intercooler
3" Downpipe
3" Stainless Exhaust with V Band
NGK Platinum Spark Plug T x4
VSM Spark Plug Wires
OMP Elimination Kit
Emissions Delete Kit
K&N Air Filter
K&N Oil Filter
Full Turbo and Downpipe Titanium Exhaust Wrap
4 Row Aluminum Radiator
Fuel Rails with AN Fittings
AeroMotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
Oil Catch Can
Black Glimer Drive Pulley Kit
Billet Oil Pan
Full Braided oil and coolant lines
Silicone vacuum lines

Transmission
11lb Flywheel
Stage 5 - 6 Puck Clutch
New Quick Short Shifter
Resealed T2 trans
New Pilot Bearing

Exterior
Shine Auto Body Kit
30MM Front Fenders
S5 Syle Front Lip
S5 Tailights

Rear End
Mazdatrix Rear Diff Mount
Mazdatrix Rear Subframe Mounts Kit

Interior
Bride Low Max Seats with Sparco Rails

Suspension/Wheels
BC Racing Coilovers
Klutch LS1 Wheels 16x8
Drill and Slotted Rotors (F&R)
Racing Beat Say Bar

 

It's just my opinion but for me, I wouldn't pay that much for that mileage and needing a paint job. That said, if you see and drive the car and you like it and you are willing to pay the price and be happy, go for it.

 

sounds right to me, and a base coat just needs a clear, not all new paint.

his investment list is close to mine and i wouldn't even go that low.

if bone stock clean non turbos are going for $5-6k then i see no issue with getting $8k+ from a turbo car that has $20k+ dumped into it. they're getting quite difficult to find.

 

Call up whoever "GringoSpeed" is and ask them if they have any history of the tune. Also, did they tune a "0-Mile" engine, the write-up lists it as having only 100 miles. It always puzzles me why people will see a car right after they get it running, it makes me suspicious of a previous issue that blew the engine was fixed (who know show well) and they just want out. What does it look like under the hood.

I would not buy that car for 1 reason- the Microtech. If you have prior experience tuning go for it, otherwise I would pass because it will need regular adjustments for fluctuating outside air temperatures to be a street-able cruising car or DD. It will run great some days and idle fine, then outside air temps go up or down drastically and it wont idle or want to do anything besides WOT.

Save your money- spend a little more on something nicer with a better EMS. if you have $8k to throw to the wind and want to tear up a car buy this.

Also, Are those fixed back seats with no roll bar?

 

I almost purchased this car myself. After seeing a picture of the porting I turned it down. The motor is built, he sent me video's ripping the engine in the rain(recently rebuilt) I opted for an un-molested 1990 N/A. It's your money, do what you want, but try and get an idea of how long you want that motor to last and if you're going to be daily driving it. Again, it's your money. Aldi has put together a nice car, but it wasn't for me.

-M

 

For the record, I am not bashing the car or the owner. Just passing along info / pics that were sent to me. I was highly interested in this car, but decided it was too much for what my intentions were. I opted to purchase a different car instead. I never saw the car in person, nor did I test drive it. Good luck! -M

 

i do tuning, but im about an hour and a half from tampa so i'd have to make a trip out there and can only do it on weekends.

i'd be pretty suspicious of a 100 mile tuned car as well, you don't tune a car until its broken in and 100 miles isn't a break in period.

 

Thanks for all the responses. This would be my first rx7 but I've been around them my whole life and finally decided to get one of my own. I was very interested in the car and went to look at it a few weeks ago but also decided to pass. The numbers from my compression tester were below 80 and made me nervous.

I'm still in the market for a T2. It would be my 2nd car and something I can enjoy and tinker with on my free time. I would like to eventually make up to 450-500 hp.

 

I'm looking at a few different T2s, one is a 10th Anniversary with 120K miles, very well maintained and unmolested. The engine was swapped for a JDM engine about a year ago and still has A.C. and P.S. Do you think $8500 is a good price? As mentioned previously, I've seen prices from $6K to $10K. I'm being patient until I find the one for me.

 

Don't fall into the "JDM" swapped engine trap. Just because it's "low Mileage" from Japan does not mean its newer. JDM short blocks should be rebuilt before use.

 

i'll be selling mine in a short while, i do need to repaint it and sort out a few things before i do sell it.

though i would probably be looking for closer to $10k, the engine has about 1k miles on it. difference is, i've built about 350 rotary engines so it's not a hack job. i'm just pretty much tired of everything rotary and selling most of what i got and returning it back to a low priority hobby. the engine is built to handle at least twice what your goal HP level, however it is a high compression engine designed to run on low boost, race gas or E85 if you plan on running high boost.

 

Yea, I don't think they rebuilt it before swapping it. Either way, I would compression test it to see what's going on.

A little bit above my budget, but I'm curious to see your build and see if I can make something happen. I'm willing to wait and save up more for one that would be worth it and not just slapped together. Do you have a build thread or able to share some details/pics of your build.

 

There are still 25+ year old coolant seals and other rubber internals. You also don't know the condition of the irons and the edges of the water jackets. A documented rebuild is of value.

 

and stock 3 piece seals, which like to self destruct for little to no reason.

 

Good points, didn't really think it through. I would hate to spend that much and than turnover and get a full rebuild plus who knows what extra costs might show up.

 

This is your first Rx7. Save your money and buy a nice close to stock Turbo II or n/a. Save up 12 grand and you will be in better shape when you find the right one.