Parents FC's battery dies after a couple weeks. Grounding advice?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Parents FC's battery dies after a couple weeks. Grounding advice?
Hey all,
My parents have an FC that's battery keeps dying, even after replacement. Any advice on where to start looking for the draw? My old legacy turbo had the same issue and re-grounding the engine actually solved the problem. What's the likely hood that, that might work on one of these?
Thanks
My parents have an FC that's battery keeps dying, even after replacement. Any advice on where to start looking for the draw? My old legacy turbo had the same issue and re-grounding the engine actually solved the problem. What's the likely hood that, that might work on one of these?
Thanks
#2
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (19)
The 1st thing I'd do is rip out the old factory alarm. If it has one, I'll bet that's the culprit. It was for me in more than one car.
Where in Cali are you? Near Santa Cruz perhaps? If so I have a friend that can help.
EDIT: Just checked out your other thread. Looks like you're more up near Tahoe.
Congrats on the car and good luck finding that gremlin!
Where in Cali are you? Near Santa Cruz perhaps? If so I have a friend that can help.
EDIT: Just checked out your other thread. Looks like you're more up near Tahoe.
Congrats on the car and good luck finding that gremlin!
Last edited by Natey; 10-25-18 at 09:25 PM.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
How involved is removing the alarm? I definitely doesn't have a functioning one now, but that's not saying there's not one there. I'll have to check when I go back. I'm in SF but my parents and the car and back in CT. They have a short list of things they'd like to to do with the car when I go back an visit next month. I appreciate the offer for help just the same.
#4
Sucker for Punishment
Set a multimeter to measure current. Remove the negative terminal on your battery. Hook up your meter in series with the negative terminal and battery post(black probe on the post). You shouldn't be reading more than 30-50 mA. 50mA(if I remember correctly) is considered parasitic.
Then remove a fuse(PAL fuse in engine bay) and check the reading again. Keep pulling fuses until you see your reading drop. Re-install your fuses as you go so you don't have to remember anything. If it doesn't drop move onto the fuses under driver's side dash. You'll find it eventually. Diagrams may be needed to track down the culprit but you will have a good idea where to look. Hope this helps.
Edit: Having the key in the ignition alone will draw a current. If storing the car you should always remove the key.
Then remove a fuse(PAL fuse in engine bay) and check the reading again. Keep pulling fuses until you see your reading drop. Re-install your fuses as you go so you don't have to remember anything. If it doesn't drop move onto the fuses under driver's side dash. You'll find it eventually. Diagrams may be needed to track down the culprit but you will have a good idea where to look. Hope this helps.
Edit: Having the key in the ignition alone will draw a current. If storing the car you should always remove the key.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 10-25-18 at 10:12 PM.
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