Igniton coil
05-16-22, 05:27 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Igniton coil
My leading coil read 0 ohms. From wat i read that means it aint good. But when i crank the car the coil does spark..the spark is a redish color . Can someone help please. Also if my cas cable is too long will it cause like a voltage drop to the ecu?.
05-17-22, 11:27 AM
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,824
Received 2,591 Likes
on
1,840 Posts
so what are you trying to fix?
05-17-22, 07:18 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
good question?
Here i go: car would start warm up n idle just fine but if u turned it off it wouldnt start back up..because of that i didnt buy it and was sold to someone else who did who knows wat and now it wont start or start for 2 seconds then shutsoff. I cleaned tank got new fuel pump repaced all the rubbers on the injectors but i left the old pintal caps because i was unable to put the new ones on. New plugs and thats all i can think of rn. Checked all wires going through fire wall on passenger side and all of them check out for continuity and where they are supposed to go. Havent checked for voltage yet i want to say its an electrical.problem but not sure. There is a relay on rear driver side that i dont know wat its for. Ill post some pics. Thank u for ur time i really do appreciate it.
Here i go: car would start warm up n idle just fine but if u turned it off it wouldnt start back up..because of that i didnt buy it and was sold to someone else who did who knows wat and now it wont start or start for 2 seconds then shutsoff. I cleaned tank got new fuel pump repaced all the rubbers on the injectors but i left the old pintal caps because i was unable to put the new ones on. New plugs and thats all i can think of rn. Checked all wires going through fire wall on passenger side and all of them check out for continuity and where they are supposed to go. Havent checked for voltage yet i want to say its an electrical.problem but not sure. There is a relay on rear driver side that i dont know wat its for. Ill post some pics. Thank u for ur time i really do appreciate it.
05-24-22, 07:26 PM
#5
What I would do if in your shoes would be this,. . .Or at least I would start with this.. .
Change the temperature sensor behind the alternator/water pump plate. .Will have to remove the alternator most likely to get to it.. . .cheap part. .
Set the Throttle position sensor voltage.. . Or at least make sure its right.
Make sure the idle adjustment screw is not turned all the way one or the other.. . .If it is fully closed it means there is an air leak into the engine. . .. It should be set somewhere in the middle and idle fine.
follow the procedure to set the idle in the service manual found at foxed.ca
Plug the vacuum lines that go to the EGR valve and double throttle diaphragm valve.. . .Or check to see if they hold vacuum with a hand pump that you can buy from amazon. . . these are old and probably leak.
Measure the ohms of the intake air temp sensor with a volt meter per the manual. . .easy on a S4.
If you want, spend the 99 bucks for a rebuilt mass air meter.
sounds like when it gets warm something is messing with the air fuel mix.
As always, inspect carefully what you touched last on the intake manifold.
Check the resistance of the bypass air valve if you can get the connector off without breaking it.. . .carefully remove the retaining ring ........that will tell you if it works typically.. .
Change the temperature sensor behind the alternator/water pump plate. .Will have to remove the alternator most likely to get to it.. . .cheap part. .
Set the Throttle position sensor voltage.. . Or at least make sure its right.
Make sure the idle adjustment screw is not turned all the way one or the other.. . .If it is fully closed it means there is an air leak into the engine. . .. It should be set somewhere in the middle and idle fine.
follow the procedure to set the idle in the service manual found at foxed.ca
Plug the vacuum lines that go to the EGR valve and double throttle diaphragm valve.. . .Or check to see if they hold vacuum with a hand pump that you can buy from amazon. . . these are old and probably leak.
Measure the ohms of the intake air temp sensor with a volt meter per the manual. . .easy on a S4.
If you want, spend the 99 bucks for a rebuilt mass air meter.
sounds like when it gets warm something is messing with the air fuel mix.
As always, inspect carefully what you touched last on the intake manifold.
Check the resistance of the bypass air valve if you can get the connector off without breaking it.. . .carefully remove the retaining ring ........that will tell you if it works typically.. .
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chedda_j
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
10
05-18-07 12:20 AM