Ok heres the down low on the car situation, after a long pit about how my carb is fucked, which it still is, ive learned that my leading coil is either shorting or non responsive at all times.

I took a voltmeter to the coil and it read 13.6v on the + side so i assumed it was fine, another look showed that the leading coil doesnt spark. Immediately i thought that the coil was f'd so i swapped out the trailing coil and bam, no spark. THen i was confused so i hooked up the trailing coil back into its original position and tested that one, spark out the ***.

So in other words theres something wrong with the wiring on the leading side. "right side" I then took the ground (-) off the leading and put it on the trailing to test to see if thats the problem. Well looky here, no spark..hmm wonder what the problem could be. And this is where im stuck.

Im not too sure but doesnt the (-) side actually have to ground for the coil to work and doesnt the coil ground itself through its gear and housing, so if one wasnt fireing the other wouldnt be either. Help here guys. Something internal on the dizzy?

 

Both the + and - wires for the coil go to the ignitors. If the ignitors aren't grounding, it may be due to corrosion on the back of them. Your voltage test of the coil only showed incoming battery voltage. If you want to test the coils themselves, ohm them and compare the 2 coils. Instructions/specs are in the FSM.

 

It actually showed voltage on both but more like 11v on the negative, sorry to leave that out. Something like the ignitor isnt putting out enough voltage.

 

Ok so i went and remeasured the voltage. Im getting 13.6 on either side of the coil, on both. One fires and the other doesnt. The leading coil doesnt fire, even if i change the coil out and use the trailing coil (the one that is firein) What do i do? Change out dizzy's?

 

anyone?

 

how do you change an ignitor?

 

its got 2 screws and unplugs from the side of the dizy

 

If swapping a known good coil to the position of the bad coil and still not getting fire then yes, try a known good ignitor.

 

Definately the ignitor. Ive been changing carbs out for the last month thinking that the carb was the problem and all along it was just the stupid ignitor. I got a few from the junk yard, different part number than the stock one for some reason but they work great. Dont shake your head at me because i didnt think of the electrical before f'n with the carb, i did pull the plugs a few times and found that both sets were golden brown. I was only firing on the trailing plug, that was so gay. I still have a tiny stumble at 7 grand in second but thats prolly just because the carb is actually kinda shitty, it doesnt idle very well at 800 so i bumped it up to 1000. THe car runs great now tho, just waiting to get my intake from ^^^^^ and il be on my way to an edelbrock.

Btw, i didnt know that edelbrock was made and owned by weber.

 

You need the correct ignitor if it's going to last. There are only 2 types, the older ones are J-105, newer are J-109. The 105s are designed to work with the points style ignition system. If you're still running points, change the dizzy out to an 81+ and bypass the ballast resistors. The 'How To' is link in the FAQs.

 

nvm they are 105's. I was reading the incorrect numbers. Anyways, il read up on it. thanks.