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Idiot Light Gauge Pod?

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Old May 4, 2020 | 10:25 AM
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Idiot Light Gauge Pod?

Hey all, new to the RX7 community and just picked up my first Turbo II last week. The Idiot Light is having some issues (seems to be a ground from what the previous owner was debugging) which leaves all the lights on. Rather than fix it I'd like to re purpose the space for a tripe gauge cluster so I can get a better idea of the vitals (oil temp & pressure, and water temp) so I can verify that the cluster gauges are accurate. Right now my OEM oil pressure gauge is pegged at max (most likely a ground fault) so I'd like to have another means of verifying the pressure. I know I know, "why not fix the issues", well I'm a numbers person. Rather than just get the OEM stuff back up I'd like to be able to have gauges I can data log with so I can monitor the engine as things change.

From what I've been seeing, there are only a handful of forum members who produce a triple gauge pod. Is there a vendor that happens to carry any on this forum that I've overlooked?
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Old May 4, 2020 | 11:35 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
for your oil pressure gauge, there is a condenser teed in the circuit right next to the slave cylinder, and i've seen the wire get pinched or otherwise shorted out which will peg and eventually fry the gauge.

KSP makes these too, this is the no holes version, there is one with the holes, https://www.rhdjapan.com/attain-frp-...hole-fc3s.html
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Old May 4, 2020 | 01:00 PM
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You'll need to approach this with caution vs. just yanking out the idiot cluster, as the excitation circuit for alternator relies on the idiot cluster to function properly...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...ratch-1048705/
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Old May 4, 2020 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
for your oil pressure gauge, there is a condenser teed in the circuit right next to the slave cylinder, and i've seen the wire get pinched or otherwise shorted out which will peg and eventually fry the gauge.

KSP makes these too, this is the no holes version, there is one with the holes, https://www.rhdjapan.com/attain-frp-...hole-fc3s.html
I'll have to look into that then since the pegged gauge is just annoying to look at.

Thanks for the link, that's exactly what I'm looking for! Now to figure out what gauges I want to go with, was thinking Stack Pro's or the Corksport ones.

Originally Posted by DC5Daniel
You'll need to approach this with caution vs. just yanking out the idiot cluster, as the excitation circuit for alternator relies on the idiot cluster to function properly...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...ratch-1048705/
Right now the cluster has been unplugged and has been for years according to my friend who I got the car from.

Last edited by Tihsho; May 4, 2020 at 01:10 PM.
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Old May 4, 2020 | 01:19 PM
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From: Peachtree City, GA
Originally Posted by Tihsho
I'll have to look into that then since the pegged gauge is just annoying to look at.

Thanks for the link, that's exactly what I'm looking for! Now to figure out what gauges I want to go with, was thinking Stack Pro's or the Corksport ones.



Right now the cluster has been unplugged and has been for years according to my friend who I got the car from.
I just reviewed the FSM for myself, and I think I will retract my statement, and disagree with the thread linked.

The alternator warning relay is contained in the CPU in the driver's kick panel, and then simply completes the circuit to the light in the idiot cluster. The previous thread made it sound like this function happened INTERNAL to the idiot light, which is not correct. The parallel resistor he makes reference to is likely the very common spike suppression resistor which is found across the coil of nearly any relay. You can see, the idiot cluster is isolated from the alternator via the relay in the CPU. Diagrams below.

Although it's great to have information documented, it's not so great when that information is wrong .




Last edited by DC5Daniel; May 4, 2020 at 01:36 PM.
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