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Old 03-25-22, 05:27 PM
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I need help

I recently bought this rx7, it has been sitting for about 3 years and needs some work done to it, I finally got it all together and it will not start.
I crank it for a while on and off, un flood it (I've tried every way ive seen) and crank some more and it gets flooded again
the front rotor when it floods it looks black, however the rear has more of a brownish liquid on the plug, but the rear rotor seems to have more on both plugs.
before I even attempted to do anything it has sat for about 2 weeks with pb blaster in the motor
my biggest issue is that whenever I pull the leading plugs from the front rotor there is a nice healthy pop, however if I put the plugs back in the front the rear makes almost no noise, is this something that happens and will "wear in" after the engine gets run ( I have not touched any internals) or am I sitting on a big red scrap pile, or am I overreacting to something insanely simple, all are possibilities
{I have also noticed a check Engine` light that goes away whenever I pull the egr fuse}
one video is plugs in start attempt, other two are trailing plug only cranks for each rotor

thank you very much
Attached Files
File Type: mov
IMG_0304.MOV (7.75 MB, 27 views)
File Type: mov
IMG_0303.MOV (6.38 MB, 20 views)
File Type: mov
IMG_0307.MOV (12.29 MB, 33 views)

Last edited by Brrraaap; 03-25-22 at 06:32 PM.
Old 03-28-22, 05:54 AM
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To me that sounds like you have uneven compression on front (2 psst - nothing - 2 psst, side seal?) and no compression on rear (no psst, apexes?). You should get sounds evenly spaced on both rotors. You can use a regular compression tester to confirm things as well. You can try pouring some oil in the spark plug holes then crank it, it can help build compression and maybe unstuck seals, but considering you already let it soak in PB Blaster I think its unlikely to help.
Technically you could also hand-crank it to align the apex seals with the spark plug holes and visually inspect them with a borescope if you have one at hand, but I think there is a decent chance you are looking at a rebuild.
Old 03-28-22, 04:39 PM
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What would've caused that? it ran 3 years ago.
Old 03-28-22, 04:45 PM
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If it did run, that'd make stuck seals likely. Weird you'd have basically no compression on a whole rotor tho. You can search on how to fix that or maybe someone more knowledgeable on this are will chime in.
Old 03-28-22, 09:31 PM
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The first video tells me something is off with compression (as barnahadnagy says). I also advise compression testing. It could be stuck seals from sitting, but PB blaster would likely break those loose. You could also try MMO or similar. If it is a stuck seal it will come loose once the engine actually runs, if not before.

One important thing to ask: Did you see it run three years ago, or did the previous owner TELL you it ran three years ago?
Old 03-29-22, 06:19 PM
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I do trust when the previous owner said that it ran, although I have no idea how well, I compression tested it and the rear rotor came to a total of 0, while the front rotor had 100 on two faces and none on the other.
Old 03-29-22, 06:20 PM
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Would a car run like this?
Old 03-29-22, 09:38 PM
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I doubt it would run.

My car started and ran (albeit terribly) on one rotor. You only have 2/3 faces of one rotor. Maybe someone can chime in with experience in this situation, but I have a hard time believing it would run at all. It might sputter and try to run or fire rythmically.

It could be it barely ran when the previous owner last started it and has since given up. Hard to say at this point.

I can tell you that a complete zero reading on the rear rotor makes it very unlikely it's just stuck seals. Front rotor maybe. MMO is cheap so there isn't any reason not to try though.
Old 03-30-22, 06:11 AM
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ive had it through a lot of cranking cycles with pb blaster and it does just what you said, pop rythmitcally. So I guess its time for me to start gathering parts for a rebuild
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