Hey guys!
Curious if anyone has experienced this and what the fix might be. On my drivers door, when I use the key to unlock it, it feels crunchy to turn. For this reason I have stopped locking the door, but thats not ideal. I was curious if I could take this to a lock smith to repair or what the best course of action might be. I have a 10ae so id rather not just replace the lock due to wanting to retain the specail key.

Any help is appreciated!

Thank you!

 

you can buy a new lock and rekey it. they are childishly simple

 

I will look into this! I appreciate the response!

 

Mine gets a rough feeling after a while. I don't know how to describe it. It's harder to turn and crunchy might describe it. They sell a lock lubricant which is basically a graphite powder. at Auto parts stores. I put some of it into the keyhole and give it a few turns and it clears it up and makes it smooth again.
American Grease Stick Co. Graphite Lubricant MZ-2H - Advance Auto Parts

 

A few weeks back, something happened to mine. It looks like the little "cover" on the inside is gone, and my key only goes in this far now. And, for a little while before this happened it was becoming a little difficult to unlock the door. My fault, I should have looked into it right away. But...I didn't.

Would I be able to just replace it with this - could it be this easy?
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/86-92-R...1-76-220B.html

 

If I had to guess, you had the "backlit keyhole" option from the factory. I also have it. When working properly, if you pull up on the door handle with the door locked, a little light will come on that illuminates the keyhole so you know where to insert the key.

It's rarely working because the bulbs burn out, the little switch inside gets dirty, and the timer is controlled by the body CPU which is frequently unreliable due to cold solder joints. It was a pain in the *** to get it working, and it makes me wonder how many people have this option and don't even know it.

Anyways, the little door that covers the keyhole is made of a translucent plastic, and mine also snapped off and fell into the keyhole. I was able to remove most of it with a pick but my lock is still a bit grindy. I usually just unlock with my remote and have been successfully ignoring it until I feel like fixing it.

You could replace it with that lock cylinder but then it might not match your other keys. The key code is stamped on the key itself just below the handle, so I would maybe contact Atkins and see if you can get a replacement cylinder with the same key code. Otherwise you could take out the handle and bring it to a locksmith and I'm sure they could take care of it. The new cylinder is a lot cheaper than I expected though so it might end up being more economical just to replace.

 

Wondrousbread - there are remote locks you can install in these cars?

 

I don't think there were any stock options for it. There were follow-locks, where you would turn the key on the driver's door and the passenger would follow lock / unlock. No remote options though.

I installed mine with generic actuators, a simple controller (basically just two relays in an h-bridge) and the signal comes from my aftermarket alarm remote.

Honestly I did that so long ago that I forgot the car didn't come with it when I wrote that comment. I have a hatch-popper actuator connected to the remote too.

 

Your plastic flap that covers the key hole broke and got lodged in the key slot. That happened on my 90 GXL a number of times. You could replace your lock with that one from Atkins, but then you'll need two sets of keys. What I've done is bought the new lock and change the tumblers back to my original ones. It's not that hard, but you'll need to keep track of where the tumbler pins go into. The pins are different lengths and need to swap them into the same holes that they came out of on the new lock. Also, you'll need to deal with the new flap and its spring during reassembly. Really not that hard, but somewhat tedious.

 

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I actually got in there with a pick yesterday, found some of those plastic pieces from the keyhole cover and removed them (hooked up my little 1.5 gallon wetvac and sucked the plastic out as I was removing with the pick), gently reworked my key into the keyhole and got it to work. Then, I squirted some 3-in-1 oil in there and worked the key/mechanism 3-5 times. Works ok now, not too bad. However, like any 34 year old car, it is now just a matter of time before I will need to replace. With these suggestions, it should be a breeze.
Thanks again!!!

 

I'll also throw out there that it's ridiculously easy to rebuild these yourself. The hardest part is removing the handle assembly itself. But After years of service the brass tumblers get oxide buildup and grime all over them and just need a good cleaning


There's a few small pieces to keep track of, like the detent bearing and springs, but it's not a technically difficult project.


I'll also throw out there that I made some replacement flapper doors for the locks on my FD, but they will work with slight modification on an FC. Stock one on the left, Polypropylene in the center, and ABS on the right. I have MANY more of these if people need some.


Code Red also offers replacement covers and flappy doors, but theirs are 3d printed and will also require a little modification to fit the FC.

 

actually if you're feeling lucky, you can undo the snap ring that holds the lock in, and you can leave the handle in the car
the trick is getting it back in