After Nine Years Sitting...
03-30-17, 09:40 PM
#27
i've mentioned it a few times, premixing during the first few tanks after a rebuild isn't a bad idea, however i generally do not bother.
as i've also mentioned a few times, the oil injection is a highly overrated failure scenario. running a few tanks without internal lubrication isn't a huge deal, as long as you aren't out doing track days all day long.
it actually takes about 300 miles for the OMP lines to fill and start injecting oil to the engine.
running the seals dry actually helps break them in faster, just follow most typical rebuilder break in recommendations which is avoid full throttle/boost for the first 1k miles.
as i've also mentioned a few times, the oil injection is a highly overrated failure scenario. running a few tanks without internal lubrication isn't a huge deal, as long as you aren't out doing track days all day long.
it actually takes about 300 miles for the OMP lines to fill and start injecting oil to the engine.
running the seals dry actually helps break them in faster, just follow most typical rebuilder break in recommendations which is avoid full throttle/boost for the first 1k miles.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 03-30-17 at 09:43 PM.
03-30-17, 10:23 PM
#28
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
i've mentioned it a few times, premixing during the first few tanks after a rebuild isn't a bad idea, however i generally do not bother.
as i've also mentioned a few times, the oil injection is a highly overrated failure scenario. running a few tanks without internal lubrication isn't a huge deal, as long as you aren't out doing track days all day long.
it actually takes about 300 miles for the OMP lines to fill and start injecting oil to the engine.
running the seals dry actually helps break them in faster, just follow most typical rebuilder break in recommendations which is avoid full throttle/boost for the first 1k miles.
as i've also mentioned a few times, the oil injection is a highly overrated failure scenario. running a few tanks without internal lubrication isn't a huge deal, as long as you aren't out doing track days all day long.
it actually takes about 300 miles for the OMP lines to fill and start injecting oil to the engine.
running the seals dry actually helps break them in faster, just follow most typical rebuilder break in recommendations which is avoid full throttle/boost for the first 1k miles.
Taking it easy for the first thousand miles will be easy since I haven't driven this car in many years and I will be babying it while I continue to sort everything out - it will be like getting used to a new car again - but without the high property taxes.
I kinda remember that it shouldn't be pushed past 3K while breaking it in too, let me check the owners manual (I would be a good idea to read the whole thing again anyway).
(Edit: Manual says nothing about 3K, But it does mention taking it easy for 600 miles *Do not race engine, *Drive at varying speeds without straining engine, *Avoid full throttle starts)
Again, thanks for all the help. Same to you too Daniel (DC5Daniel) I truly appreciate it.
Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 03-30-17 at 11:04 PM.
03-31-17, 04:00 PM
#29
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
How to get away with murder...
I let it idle in the garage (doors open) for about half and hour to get it up to temperature in order to set the timing.
I had to step outside to breathe. After tuning, I decided to moved it outside to wash it and to see if anything was not correct. To get it out of the garage, I had to fire up my FD and move it out of the way.
Going back into the garage, I could have died right there. Pheew! Two rotaries running in the same garage can kill you fast.
I will have to add time for troubleshooting the emissions controls for both cars.
I had to step outside to breathe. After tuning, I decided to moved it outside to wash it and to see if anything was not correct. To get it out of the garage, I had to fire up my FD and move it out of the way.
Going back into the garage, I could have died right there. Pheew! Two rotaries running in the same garage can kill you fast.
I will have to add time for troubleshooting the emissions controls for both cars.
Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 03-31-17 at 08:28 PM.
04-10-17, 06:10 PM
#31
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Driving the car after so long, it certainly needs a little more attention. My impressions after a few short drives in and around the neighborhood...
- When I first got it out of the garage, the power steering must have been bone dry, it took a bit of fluid, then a bit more, and more before I could get rid of that whining noise.Fluid fixed problem.
- I've had the coolant alarm (the loud sound I was hearing when trying to start it) come on about 4 times as it burped it's coolant - each time I had to add about 8 ounces.Topped off coolant fixed the problem.
- The car shakes and wobbles badly at about 5-10 mph, the tires on it were past their expiration wear before I parked it so I am hoping most of the wobbling is due to those tires being badly flatted - and perhaps a belt or two being separated. I am replacing the tires tomorrow.New tires mounted, wobble gone.
- The car sits unevenly, listing toward the drivers side. I will need to replace the struts and springs too - it seems to be hard to find the OE equivalent replacements - lots of people sell the struts - not so many, the springs.With the wobble gone, this is no longer a pressing issue. Also, now that the car has better tires, I think I may be able to live with a set of replacement spring for now.
- The idle is high right now at 1300, I will adjust that back down. But it has a hard time staying lit, when cold. I imagine I must have a vacuum leak somewhere. Cranked the idle down a bit and tried squirting water to find the leak, so far no joy. Found unattached hose, Idle is now normal.
- The brakes are hard as rocks when the car first starts. After a little driving, they will work well after a minute or so driving, then at the third pump they will get hard again - I am thinking the brake booster has a leak. It may also be that they need bleeding, so I am waiting for a set of speed bleeders to come in so I can replace all the fluid. Whether this helps the problem or not, after ten years, I am certain it can use new fluid. Looking at the tanks for the brake master and the clutch master - that I replaced a couple weeks ago, the fluid is literally like night and day.This is definitely a leak problem. I have tightened all the hose clams for the plumbing to the master cylinder. No good result yet. Still waiting for the speed bleeders.
- Although all the electronics are working (except for the clock - which is intermittent - just as it has been for most of its life; I will have to look to see if in all these years someone has found a fix), I found a glitch today when I parked to get lunch, I noticed when I came back to the garage that the belt warning light was on, turning the ignition back on and off, the light went way.No action needed.
- The engine belts seem to howl a bit, I will try a little dressing and then if that doesn't do it, replace them.Dressed the belts, no reduction in howl... This may actually be a problem with the pulley bearings, but it is not a big concern right now.
- The headlights seem to be a little brighter than my FD, but I believe that has always been the case. In any case I will look for a xenon upgrade.
- The seats are harder than I remember. It seems that my FD seats are more comfortable. But again, that may be just that they are what I am used to.I'm going to order a set of covers to:
- Keep the leather from burning my skin.
- Protect the seats.
- Give it a little more color inside.
- The rear view mirror seems extraordinarily close to me as I drive. I don't remember it being that way. I will back the seat up a bit and rake the back to see if that feels better.Moving the seat back does help a bit... Jut in the short ride I have taken, I am getting used to this again.
- I will have to pull the spare out and see what condition it is in... In 29 years, it has never been out of it's storage spot. Finding a new one will probably be a chore. I don't think a full size will fit back there.
- While driving, the engine power seems smooth, but when idle, it has a very staccato sound. Unattached hose fixed this.
- I can see the oil rising in all four metering lines, the oil is about 3/4 of the way to the metering nozzles. One seems to be a little slower than the others.
- I may have to take the intake off again - that is if I can't get to the exhaust manifold bolts any other way to ensure they are tight.
- I do see a spot of fluid - not sure if it is oil under the middle of the car towards the back. I am hoping that is the result of a slightly loose oil filter or from the first time I cranked it and the oil cooler line in back was loose. I wish I had a way to lift the front so I could scrub the bottom.Turned out to be a clamp that would not stay tight. Replace it and coolant leak seems to be gone.
- While the car is a killer - running in the garage - I get no hint of bad exhaust as I am driving - thank god. My FD is an assault on the nose whenever the roof - and the windows are open.
- Seatbelt retractors need new springs.
- trunk struts need to be replaced.
Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 04-11-17 at 04:18 PM.
04-10-17, 06:16 PM
#32
Originally Posted by BLKTOPTRVL
Driving the car after so long, it certainly needs a little more attention. My impressions after a few short drives in and around the neighborhood...
- When I first got it out of the garage, the power steering must have been bone dry, it took a bit of fluid, then a bit more, and more before I could get rid of that whining noise.
- I've had the coolant alarm (the loud sound I was hearing when trying to start it) come on about 4 times as it burped it's coolant - each time I had to add about 8 ounces.
- The car shakes and wobbles badly at about 5-10 mph, the tires on it were past their expiration wear before I parked it so I am hoping most of the wobbling is due to those tires being badly flatted - and perhaps a belt or two being separated. I am replacing the tires tomorrow.
- The car sits unevenly, listing toward the drivers side. I will need to replace the struts and springs too - it seems to be hard to find the OE equivalent replacements - lost of people sell the struts - not so many, the springs.
- The idle is high right now at 1300, I will adjust that back down. But it has a hard time staying lit, when cold. I imagine I must have a vacuum leak somewhere.
- The brakes are hard as rocks when the car first starts. After a little driving, they will work well after a minute or so driving, then at the third pump they will get hard again - I am thinking the brake booster has a leak. It may also be that they need bleeding, so I am waiting for a set of speed bleeders to come in so I can replace all the fluid. Whether this helps the problem or not, after ten years, I am certain it can use new fluid. Looking at the tanks for the brake master and the clutch master - that I replaced a couple weeks ago, the fluid is literally like night and day.
- Although all the electronics are working (except for the clock - which is intermittent - just as it has been for most of its life; I will have to look to see if in all these years someone has found a fix), I found a glitch today when I parked to get lunch, I noticed when I came back to the garage that the belt warning light was on, turning the ignition back on and off, the light went way.
- The engine belts seem to howl a bit, I will try a little dressing and then if that doesn't do it, replace them.
- The headlights seem to be a little brighter than my FD, but I believe that has always been the case. In any case I will look for a xenon upgrade.
- The seats are harder than I remember. It seems that my FD seats are more comfortable. But again, that may be just that they are what I am used to.
- The rear view mirror seems extraordinarily close to me as I drive. I don't remember it being that way. I will back the seat up a bit and rake the back to see if that feels better.
04-10-17, 06:50 PM
#33
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Thanks Daniel... I will spend the time I need to get it back to stock performance and quiet.
The car feels bigger than I remember from the inside, and smaller than I remember from the outside. But I know I will enjoy driving it again.
The car feels bigger than I remember from the inside, and smaller than I remember from the outside. But I know I will enjoy driving it again.
Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 04-10-17 at 06:58 PM.
04-11-17, 04:16 PM
#34
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Driving the car after so long, it certainly needs a little more attention. My impressions after a few short drives in and around the neighborhood...
- The idle is high right now at 1300, I will adjust that back down. But it has a hard time staying lit, when cold. I imagine I must have a vacuum leak somewhere. Cranked the idle down a bit and tried squirting water to find the leak, so far no joy.
04-27-17, 09:45 PM
#36
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter