After Nine Years Sitting...
 

Hello All, I am hoping some of you can help me with this...

I parked my Convertible 9 years ago because I thought the engine was weak and I wanted to rebuild it before it blew up and destroyed a lot of internal parts.

I put the rebuilt engine back into the car about 8 years ago, but before I completed the install, added fluids, and started it I took a job out of town. One job lead to another and each time I finished a job and went home to complete the install another job would come up. After 9 years I have retired and I am now home for good(?) So, I am just getting around to completing the job.

Yesterday, I put the bottom nuts on the motor mounts, installed the radiator and fan, added the oil lines to the cooler, and purchased a new battery. (I got it all buttoned back up by memory - except for the lead that goes to the oil level sender pigtail... I can't find the connector wire - but I am sure it is there somewhere.

Anyway.

Today I should be able to remove the plugs, squirt in a bit of oil, pour fluids into the car and actually try to start it.

But I am kind of scared. I did not sleep at all last night thinking about this issue...

When I put the engine back together 8 years ago, I added Pineapple port sleeve inserts. I was afraid of them moving and breaking the pins, so I went to a machine shop and had them drill a hole through the back of the sleeves and pin the inserts in place with a set screw (If I had it to do over again, I would not have bothered with the inserts), but that is too late now.

My worry is that I do not remember if I had the insert bonded to the sleeve with red (or any other locktite. I also don't remember if I had the machine shop set the screw using locktite. So, I have a set of inserts I am concerned might move. Or worse, a set screw that will back itself out and be swallowed by the engine.

Thinking about how they are installed (directly behind the insert at 90 degrees), I believe the set screw will be facing the back side of the port opening and will never be exposed to the intake port chamber itself. If it does loosen under vibration, it should never move because it is locked in place by the sleeve shaft wall and will never face the port opening.

This is based on my assumption that in the closed position, the set screw will be at the seven - seven thirty (clock) position - whereas the port opening is at the 3 o'clock position. (for the other port, this would mean four - four thirty and 9 o'clock positions). When the actuator moved the sleeve, it should only move from about 38 degrees at the most.

If the above is true, I will feel ok to move forward. If I am wrong, I think I should take the intake back off and remove the sleeves before starting the engine.

The only way the screw can be ingested is if I accidentally installed the sleeves 180 out of the the correct orientation (uggg - another worry). I'm thinking I should be able to remove the actuator and use a boroscope to check the orientation of the sleeve?

Can any engine builders confirm or refute what I think the situation is?

If it helps I have added a couple of diagrams.

Man if i were you i would just take the intake off and remove the sleeves and re-look everything over. Then Re-assemble. It would only take a few hours and then you can sleep at night and start her up and drive with confidence.

That's the direction I am leaning... But knowing the orientation and arc limits will help me decide when I get in there.

Well, I could almost kick myself. Getting an RX-7 stripped down to the intake manifold is just a few steps from pulling the engine. I could have saved myself a lot of work if I had let the whole job go till now. Ah well...

I went to the dealership yesterday to get some parts and saw the MX-5 RF. I was shocked to see how much stuff there there IS NOT under the hood. Working on that thing would be a pleasure. If Mazda ever releases another rotary, I hope they can come up with a far less convoluted hose routing.

After pulling the sleeves I find that they are:

• oriented correctly
• the inserts had red locktite
• the set screws did not have loctitle on them, but they would never have been exposed to the chamber
• it turns out I was wrong about the direction of travel (clock vs. counter clock), but that wouldn't have mattered
• One small (minuscule) positive is that I found a hose that was not connected... I am not sure if it came apart while I was dismantling it, or if I never attached it in the first place. It is a thin tube that runs from the metal tube on the intake manifold to the Split Air Pipe valve(? Picture attached - where it says "to egr valve" it should say "to split pipe")

Now I need find (or make) new gaskets for the:

• Air Control Valve
• Aux Port Valves

Mazda doesn't make them anymore.

i have the ACV gaskets in stock, but i have yet to make a die for cutting the auxiliary port gaskets. i could probably do some rudamentary ones.

yes there should be a hose from that nipple to the split air pipe.

Thanks, I just made my own.

New Question...

Does anyone know what this green pigtail goes to? I can find nothing that it was ever attached to... I also get the feeling it was never attached because it has molded itself in the heat away from every component I can identify.

That might be the trigger for the thermoswitch. Some models had a small efan which was triggered by this sensor.

Thanks, I didn't remember it ever being connected to anything.

Ok, so I still need to find the wire that goes to the oil level sensor. But other than that, it is all back together and ready to start (I know, I'm slow).

I know that if it starts correctly, it is going to jump to somewhere between 3K and 4K RPM. That seems like a lot of stress for an engine that has not run since being installed. I will need to put some fresh gas into it, to compensate for the old stuff sitting in there.

I am thinking that I probably should also add a little oil into the gas in case the oil injectors are not operating correctly. If I do, what type and how much?

It is all back together again... I know, I'm slow... I did in ten years, what you guys go over the weekend!

I know that if it starts correctly, it is going to jump to somewhere between 3K and 4K RPM. That seems like a lot of stress for an engine that has not run since being installed years ago. I will need to put some fresh gas into it, to compensate for the old stuff sitting in there.

I am thinking that I probably should also add a little oil into the gas in case the oil injectors are not operating correctly. If I do, what type and how much?

Should I pull the fuse and let it crank for a few minutes at a time? Is there any other way to prime the lubrication system?

If you're going to add oil to the gas, you want a TCW3 premix. Popular local choices are Pennzoil marine, or Walmart's SuperTech.

I'd probably just pull the plugs, squirt some premix or Marvel Mystery Oil into each chamber, and roll the motor over a few times slowly by hand.

Thank you again Daniel, suggestion taken.

Not a good day...

• Engine cranks fine.... No start. I get no indication that the fuel is igniting. I will have to find a remote start tool to check for spark. But then again it is old fuel and I have not yet added any to the tank.
• Engine is losing oil while cranking. It looks like one of the oil lines is not tight. I will tighten the banjo bolts.
• Worst part is the clutch was good for a couple pumps and then went to the floor and stayed. I will have to look in to see if I need a simple rebuild of the clutch master or slave or both - or will have to pull the trans. Edit: Just looked them up... about $30 for the master and $27 for the slave and $20 for the hose.

Probably the slave. I've never had to replace the MC, but I've been through 2 or 3 slaves on a car that's gone less than 4000 miles in 5 years :)

Do you have a friend or spouse who can watch for spark or crank the car?

Unfortunately no, the only neighbors close enough are elderly. A couple friends, but I know they are not into these things and I am not one who calls on others too much. Not having a lot of friends to help is one of the side effect of living the last 25 years of my life on the road.

I'll look into one of these...

your master cylinder is bad and so is your gas. fix the oil leak as well, probably need to have the injectors serviced as well after this length of time.

Check out Pettit Racing's premix. Much cheaper then TCW3.

Thanks for the input.

For some reason when I put the car back together years ago, I failed to tighten the 3 pan/mount bolts, the oil drain, or the rear oil cooler tube. I must have been planning to do that later for some unknown reason.

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I've replace the master and the slave (just in case) I am not connecting them yet (hose undone) because I don't want to have to push the clutch to crank the engine.

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The injectors were serviced right after the car was shut down. I am hoping I don't have to take the intake apart again to check them, so I am walking the other paths first.

The tank was empty (or close to it) when it was parked and I added 2 gallons of fresh gas two days ago.

I checked for fuel at the main feed hose and when it is cranked, I get nothing. I will pull the filter.

I also bridged the yellow check connector to hear if there is any pumping? I hear nothing but clicks when the jumper is attached, so I am assuming the pump may be dead too.

After I failed to hear anything from the bridge, I checked the two egi fuses. They were both good.
Next I checked the egi relay. With no power there was no continuity between 1&2 and none between 3&4, with power applied there IS continuity between 1&2 and between 3&4.

Next I will move onto the fuel pump.

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What I do get when I turn the key is a steady alarm sound as if the seatbelt warning was going off. It is a steady sound. It was not there two days ago. Two days ago, when I turned the key I would get the sound system powering up (aftermarket) and the radio coming on, now it is just the alarm which is about a quarter as loud as the main horn. This sounds familiar, but I really do not recognize this sound after ten years not driving the car. It could be as simple as the key reminder, but I don't remember it being this loud.

My new fuel pump and strainer finally arrived today.

The tank cover gasket was firmly attached but I was able to pull it up without breaking it. If anyone is trying to replace their pump, be aware that Mazda no longer makes the gasket available - so be careful with it.

If yours does break, the gasket material is rubber and is either 3/32" thick (or a little thicker). Had mine broken, I would have made a new one out of 2/16" rubber.

While the old pump is draining, I am off to the store to see if I can get new screws - they did not all survive taking the cover off.

I just bought one a few months ago. You have confirmation NLA? That's a shame.

a teeny tiny automotive wrenching tip.....





































































NEVER EVER EVER EVER PUT SOMETHING ON WITHOUT TIGHTENING IT DOWN BEFORE FINISHING FOR THE DAY!

most likely, the FB gasket is also NLA, as will a lot more parts for these cars in the coming future.

OK, I got the new fuel pump in yesterday. The strainer they sent is far smaller than the OEM, I may be replacing it again in the near future. After getting it in, I called it a day.

Today, I cranked it over. Ten seconds - nothing. OK, it's priming. Another ten seconds, nothing. One more crank, Boom! there was a slight backfire and it lit up.

Issues still:

• It is running steady, but not exactly strong, I will need to check the timing, I am not sure the CAS is in exactly the right position.
• A good bit of oil smoke coming off the engine at first. Obviously this is oil burning off the body. No problem.
• It sounds a little louder than I remember, I'll have to get under and check that the manifold and exhaust bolts are tight - I know I securely installed them, but there may be a leak.
• I still can't figure out what that buzzing is coming from the dash board.
• The up shift light is always on.
• I will reconnect the clutch pedal and see if the transmission moves OK.
• MY BIGGEST CONCERN... Even though I only let it run for about five minutes, I see no sign of oil moving through the metering lines (they are new lines - perfectly translucent). That is a big scary issue. I'll have to go get some oil for the gas before I let it run and troubleshoot it. Is oil in the gas really sufficient to protect the engine while I figure out the OMP? How much is too little or much?

Yes, oil in the gas is sufficient, and arguably preferred. 5 minutes of idle, you're fine.

Roughly one oz. per gallon of gas is a good mix.