kabz

Will update my build thread later, but traded my blue 87 Sport for a 88 GXL with a beautiful interior and only 71k.
However, not running due to an electrical issue.


Yeah, not the way to attach a fender liner!

WondrousBread

After I read the thread title I was scratching my head about how a new fender could cause a no-start. I certainly was not expecting that.

Good luck, looking forward to reading about it in the build thread.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lol, crazy way to devalue a car.

it actually should be a pretty easy fix. you will need to look at everything else that guy did and fix it too, obviously

kabz

So the story of the vehicle is that the p/o bought it after a wreck that sheared off the front ball joints, fixed it up, including having a local shop put some fenders on it, as the originals were pretty banged up.
Anyway the car ran great for him, for some days... Then it quit running one day and didn't run again.
I'll copy this to a new build thread, when I get a chance.

kabz

Ok, so I have been wrestling with this problem for 3 weeks off and on, and have not resolved it.
Car is an 88 S4 NA. All stock.
I have patched up the affected wires where the screw went into the d/s harness.
Here's the current status:
* I have replaced a 'shorted' fuel pump - connector was hot - pump not running with power
* Replacement pump is good and moves fuel around when jumpered, AFM held open etc.
* I have power at the green ECU check connector
* Replaced all cabin fuses with good light-up ones
* Engine bays fuses appear all good
* With key/on and rotate CAS gear, I have spark (car will start and run briefly on starting fluid)
* Connector F-43 B/Y is not connected, and I can't find where to connect it - should be to a grounded 'condenser' near brake master, but ???
* No power at Injectors on B/Y wires
* If I jump power from F-43 to one of the injector B/Y, still no ticking from injectors when turning CAS with AFM held open [I've confirmed continuity between B/Y wires at injectors]
* I've tried with the original ECU and a spare, same behavior
* Possibly depending on battery charge, but possibly not, only some of the warning lights come on sometimes
* As far as I can tell, all other electrical works fine, including lights, wipers, audio etc.
* Injector impedance is 13+ ohms (high impedance, so no resistor pack present)

Questions:
* What's the routing of the B/Y to the injectors? Does it go through the firewall grommet at the d/s?
* What should I look at next.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

it goes battery -> underhood fuse block -> Main Relay -> injectors, where it splits into individual wires -> ecu -> Ground.

i know it goes from the main relay by the clutch master to the engine harness, so it must go inside the car, but i've never had trouble with that part

kabz

Gonna go and test continuity from main relay B/W x 2 and B/Y x 2 to FEM-02.

Obviously as I should have done to start with. Oh well. I've pulled the UIM off again, probably will pull slave off again, as it seems likely something is still bad where the screw went through the harness.

kabz

Ok, as expected no continuity at FEM-02 from main relay on B/Y. Problem was my bad crimp repair on the B/Y wire.

Fixed that. However, I was a bit worried as I patched power from d/s to p/s B/Y yesterday and still didn't have any injectors. But, I'm an idiot, I'd plugged the wrong injector in to test.

Now, with a primary injector harness plugged in to a spare injector, I get a good strong click when I turn the CAS.

Just have to reassemble everything and hope for the best! I'll post a video of 'first start' when I get her running.

kabz

I bolted enough to get her back together, and ...
Yay! She's running!