I created this post to inquire and further the knowledge of the car that I own and future cars to come. I envy those of you who dove into these cars at a younger age, and I hope to learn from more experienced owners to keep mine on the road.

So I have had a lot of fun the last 2-3 years putting a beat up 10AE back to a close-to-stock condition (new hoses, vac lines, suspension bushings, control arms, tie rods, engine rebuild, etc...). I have learned a lot about how to properly remove everything and put it back together, but I still haven't quite had a "light bulb" moment to where I fully understand the inner-workings of "tuning" the car for more confidence (especially for higher RPMs) during seat time. Some of you may have peeked at my build thread once or twice - which I started as just "something to do after work", and has grown into an obsession. I think the work I have put into the car has me paralyzed to take too many risks with driving it improperly, so here goes..

Quick Breakdown of the Car:
S4 Engine - I have put 200+ miles on rebuild w/ streetport (porting existed before I owned the engine)
S5 Turbo
Full RB Exhaust from Turbo back (Came with the car)
Emissions Removed
Stock Unaltered Throttle-body
Stock Intake
Stock Injectors (Cleaned and Flow Tested when bought the car)
Stock Fuel Pump
Stock Lines and FPR
Aftermarket Gauges (AFR and Boost so far)
Koyo Rad + Stock Fan and Shroud
FCD Came on the car - since removed

AFR Idle: 12.4
AFR Cruise - 14-16
Haven't Boosted a whole lot, but what I have seen it is around 14-15 on 2-3PSI

That's probably more than enough info for my ask. With this setup can I hit higher RPM boosting without worry of leaning out and just rely on the fuel cut if boost gets too high? Is a boost controller necessary? Am I overthinking? Should I just drive like a wuss until I take the stand-alone and pro tuning plunge?

This site has been my only source of information since Day 1, and I do not know many people in my town with rotaries to talk to. This car was just kinda a garage hobby for me, but now I really want to drive it. I constantly read threads on this site over and over, but maybe I have not turned over the right rock to find the answers I am looking for. Interested in other opinions and the reasoning behind them.

Thanks to anyone who takes the time.

 

that seems a little lean, you might want to Tee the boost gauge into the fuel pressure regulator hose. there are two vacuum nipples in the rear of the intake, but one does not see boost, very easy to hook it up wrong

 

So my boost gauge works fine. I actually did have to change nipples my first goaround, but all my gauges work and the car runs strong. The lean comment does leave me wondering..the fuel system was all replaced once I purchased the car though, and I figured the AFM would take care of the amount of air.

 

you need to confirm that the fuel pressure regulator is getting the correct signal.

 

I'm not sure what you mean..Is there another fpr other than the one on the fuel rail, because there is no electrical connection to the fpr as far as I know. I know there was a solenoid on the rack but that has since been removed. I'll check the boost sensor though while I'm tinkering.

 

the fuel pressure regulator gets a vacuum signal. you need to make sure that this signal is correct. it should see vacuum and boost. there are a few places on the intake that only see vacuum.

 

Oh yeah I just followed this originally. It's in the same nipple on the LIM.

 

i think what you need is a fuel pressure gauge. that way you know that the pressure is correct.

 

Truth. After all the dough I spent I look back and just wish I had gotten a Haltech to start with. Then I have to find a tuner in ATL too haha.
I did just 3-D print a gauge pod for under my radio. Gotta fill it up with something!

 

Just to be clear what gauges are you running? I assume, it a wideband AFR gauge not a narrow band?
As far as your set up is concerned I think your running super lean considering your boost levels. My advice would be to upgrade the fuel system. The fuel delivery is absolutely key on these cars.
My suggestion would be a walbro 255 fuel pump, delete the fuel pump resistor, and re wire the fuel pump with a 10g wire directly from the battery distribution box under the hood with a new relay. I would also HIGHLY recommend the fuel pulsation damperbe removed as this part can fail at anytime causing a massive fuel leak on top of the engine. Lastly for the fuel system, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a manual gauge on it. A fuel pressure gauge in-car isn’t super necessary, but if you have the space it can be useful.
Never allow your car to hit fuel cut if at all possible!!! Under higher boost conditions this can cause instant and major damage to the motor! Get a fuel cut defender at minimum, but be aware that’s a band aid until you get an engine management system as you just tricking the stock computer to see less boost than is actually there.