Well I guess it comes back to the original demand: dyno results for all three configuration. Someday someone with money will do it.

 

makes perfect sense. This should only be for serious rx7 builders who are willing to go all the way. Yes i understand why everyone told me to not do this not do that. Just leave it stock ports exc exc. Nope sorry. The only person Im listening to from now on is myself. The only way your going to be fast is if you dont let restrictions in your way even if that does mean removing emissions and loosing slight low end. Did you know that top end beats low end even thou you might have the same power. I see it all the time at the drags. Thats why trucks with 400 ftpd of torque do 0-60 in 9 fin seconds. Im not lying I saw many tested in some motor trend mag. People dont take me seriously when I say I want to do this or that. Its an rx7 made to spank and thats what im going for. I also heard that you can lose your stock maf and convert to map with an apexi afc. So you dont need a haltec.

 

Just take the ******* things out. I've yet to drive an FC that had a bottom end to speak of.

Its not like we're driving Powerstroke Diesels here people, rotaries love RPMs. Hello? Anyone? Bueller?

 

Are you planning on running the car without power steering?
You need to switch in a manual gearbox.
The ps one should not be used w/o ps fluid.
It's very hard on them.
Alot of people still do it. Maybe they don't know any better.
The manual ones are a completely different system.

 

My power steering rack still has fluid in it, but no pump. I havent had any problems yet, but I do have a spare rack on my parts car, just in case, so Im not too worried about it.


Speaking of restrictions on n/a's, we need to do something about that damn MAF sensor. David88vert has been working on the Mustang MAF sensor conversion, but he hasnt had time to finish it yet. It will be posted here when he does finish it.

 

Can you check your pm.

 

Great, just great. Another rebel without a clue :p

 

Ok i got upper and lower gaskets (asbestos!). Do i need a sealant on them or no? Also are there any other parts required?

 

I took out my sleeves actuators and those rods , but. I need to block off those holes. Someone told me they modified an 1/8 inch rod. I think it was you mazspeed but it was way to thin. Im just going to block it off with a washer or something. Everything else was realy simple. My rods and sleeves slid right out. I have to make a custum acv block off plate from home depot tomarow. C...ya

 

We all know high end torque is better for racing, but what about street driving kliftin? A lot of us have our sevens as daily drivers AND autocrosser/drag cars...

 

then buy a miata. Im not saying thier better in the autocross but they do seem easier to drive.

 

Unless there's something wrong with the 93, then you'll lose. Let's say you have 200rwhp, a 3rd gen has more power, even in automatic form they can turn out 14.5 1/4 mile passes.

Even if you were making 200hp, which is might be true at the flywheel, but definitley not rwhp. I'll believe those dyno sheets when I see them, but until then you are a lie. Your car sounds quick, but quit touting all these fake hp numbers until you get them tested forreal.

 

First, I never said I know Im faster or anything like that. I want to see how I will do against a bone stock FD. I have ridden in that FD, and the owner has ridden in my car, and we both agreed that my car *feels* faster.

I am very interested to see how this turns out, and am getting the vid for proof for all the disbelievers about my car, like you. No flames, I am just sick of everyone saying this and that about how much power or how fast my car is, when none of you have ever ridden in my car, or even seen it for that matter. Also, the people who are saying that are usually the people with turbo's. How much do you really know about the n/a's and modding them? Until you start showing me facts and dyno sheets on modded n/a's, why should I believe you?

 

That's exactly what I'm sayin. I'm not flaming you, I just want to see your dyno, and if you are making real good power, I want to know your secret. But until you get dynoed, its pointless to tout such hi hp numbers.

 

Yeah...I gotta agree with Matt on this one. Bring on the dyno sheets! 200 seems awfully high for rwhp on a streetable N/A FC. On the other hand, your car sounds very quick.

How about a quick list of mods?
-J

 

Current mod list:
cone filter
TB mod and modified intake elbow
ported intake manifold
RB dual outlet headers-->straight pipes all
the way to the mufflers
all emissions removed, including air pump
6 port sleeves removed
electric fan
UD pulleys, main and alternator
TII fuel pump and 550 cc secondaries
A/c and p/s removed
Crane Hi-6
NGK plug wires
timing advanced
some weight reduction...~2600 lbs
Redline ~8500 rpm

Theres a good chance Im not making full power because Im running pretty lean on the top of my powerband. My car still pulls good all the way to 8500 rpm though. Im looking for another pair of 550 cc injectors, and once I get them, I am going to bore out my TB.

 

wow how did you move the redline up to 8500 rpm? Is that a special gauge cluster or did you you use a black marker to cover up the red spots? hee hee hee couldn't resist.

I know **** about mods but getting your intake ports ported requires tearing the engine down so you also have a rebuilt/ported motor?
edit: never mind you said intake manifold.
I like your mod list if I ever decided to gonzo I think thats about what I would do. Nice job!

 

Fuel cut(rev limiter) on n/a's is at 8600. My mods moved my power peak way up, to like 8K. My car still pulls good to 8500, but I rarely take it that high.