Pics of an FC paint job
06-16-03, 02:29 AM
#126
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Originally posted by jacobcartmill
dude you really need some series5 tailights and a stock spoiler. that paint job looks grrrrreat.
dude you really need some series5 tailights and a stock spoiler. that paint job looks grrrrreat.
.you ARE going to do a big photoshoot when its all together right?!?!
06-20-03, 04:06 AM
#131
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somehow, I missed this thread when it was first started...and 88, I gotta hand it to ya, I don't personally like yellow (only cars I can think of that I even remotely like seeing it on are old muscle cars...and I'm still iffy in that one) but you made that look hella sweet...great job...
06-20-03, 08:54 AM
#133
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88', you are a car guy, pure and simple. marvy job, everything looks spectacular (and my very most favourite non-black RX-7 colour too 
).
a couple of questions:
- is air drying, as you're doing here in your paint booth, just as good as using those really big heat-projector/lamps/arrays the pro shops use??
- 'cause you're doing CYM, are there steps in spraying?? is there some kind of special clear coat or process you have to follow (like flaking the wet stuff) you need to follow to get the Mica in CYM??
- is your camera seriously messed up with the dates, or what?? (sorry if this has already been asked, i didn't read through EVERY page of this thread)
anyways, your car shall kick serious ***, and i really do like the ducting you gots goin' on. quite "wicked awesome", indeed.
).a couple of questions:
- is air drying, as you're doing here in your paint booth, just as good as using those really big heat-projector/lamps/arrays the pro shops use??
- 'cause you're doing CYM, are there steps in spraying?? is there some kind of special clear coat or process you have to follow (like flaking the wet stuff) you need to follow to get the Mica in CYM??
- is your camera seriously messed up with the dates, or what?? (sorry if this has already been asked, i didn't read through EVERY page of this thread)
anyways, your car shall kick serious ***, and i really do like the ducting you gots goin' on. quite "wicked awesome", indeed.
06-20-03, 06:10 PM
#134
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My datasheet for the paint did not mention the need to use a heat light. It said that the car can be delivered to the customer after it sits overnight. Dust free in 40 minutes and masking can be removed in 6 hours. In short, the paint is catalysed three part acrylic enamel that you can spray multiple coats with ten minutes' flash time between.
Air drying is fine since the paint has a hardener mixed into it. The paint would cure more quickly with heat lamps but the end result should be the same. I think the pro shops use heat lamps just to get the cars out the door faster with less likelyhood of the customer marring the fresh paint.
I know it looks like Competition Yellow Mica but it is actually a one stage enamel with no clearcoat. As you can see, you do not need a clearcoat to get high gloss, just a quality paint and good spray technique. I was about to choose Competition Yellow but decided against it because it looked too green and bright to my eye. The paint code I used was Ford B7, Zinc Yellow which is used on late model mustangs. It is not as bright as CYM nor as green tinted. It is a pretty good shade to my eye. Corvette yellow was too dark and orange, Beetle yellow was too soft and pastelish. There was an Audi yellow that I liked but the Zinc yellow seemed to be the closest shade for me.
To answer your question about mica and how it is done, I have read that you must apply the standard primer / sealer, then the base color, then a light coat of the mica with five or six coats of clear over it to give it some depth behind the gloss. In other words, $$$ for the paint! The $370 I spent on the paint for this job is enough for me.
Yep I need to fix my camera date or just get if off the pics.
I'm off to the garage to put the hood and bumper on the car for some pics. I'll be right back.
Air drying is fine since the paint has a hardener mixed into it. The paint would cure more quickly with heat lamps but the end result should be the same. I think the pro shops use heat lamps just to get the cars out the door faster with less likelyhood of the customer marring the fresh paint.
I know it looks like Competition Yellow Mica but it is actually a one stage enamel with no clearcoat. As you can see, you do not need a clearcoat to get high gloss, just a quality paint and good spray technique. I was about to choose Competition Yellow but decided against it because it looked too green and bright to my eye. The paint code I used was Ford B7, Zinc Yellow which is used on late model mustangs. It is not as bright as CYM nor as green tinted. It is a pretty good shade to my eye. Corvette yellow was too dark and orange, Beetle yellow was too soft and pastelish. There was an Audi yellow that I liked but the Zinc yellow seemed to be the closest shade for me.
To answer your question about mica and how it is done, I have read that you must apply the standard primer / sealer, then the base color, then a light coat of the mica with five or six coats of clear over it to give it some depth behind the gloss. In other words, $$$ for the paint! The $370 I spent on the paint for this job is enough for me.
Yep I need to fix my camera date or just get if off the pics.
I'm off to the garage to put the hood and bumper on the car for some pics. I'll be right back.
06-20-03, 07:53 PM
#135
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Ignore the panel lines that are not aligned; nothing is bolted down.
Looks like it takes more than three coats to hide the primer under this shade of light yellow. So I had to make a quick trip back to Napa and drop another $100 for two more quarts.
Oh well, I don't care about the money at this point. This project is pulling me in and there is no going back now.
06-20-03, 10:16 PM
#138
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Holy ****. Your car looks BADASS.
I like the non-paint on the taillights. I like the contrast between colors. I would have even kept the trim black, IMHMFO. (On my car, I'm keeping the spoiler and trim black. (Of course, my car is navy blue.))
I like the non-paint on the taillights. I like the contrast between colors. I would have even kept the trim black, IMHMFO. (On my car, I'm keeping the spoiler and trim black. (Of course, my car is navy blue.))
06-21-03, 03:27 AM
#141
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Yo,
Looks good mang! I'm glad you didn't paint the surrounds on the S4 taillights...it'd be too much yellow.
Keep those pics comin'!
Kevin
1989 GTUs "It's...late."
Looks good mang! I'm glad you didn't paint the surrounds on the S4 taillights...it'd be too much yellow.
Keep those pics comin'!
Kevin
1989 GTUs "It's...late."
06-21-03, 11:06 AM
#142
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Thanks guys. I think I have found my spray technique that works for me. My doors are as smooth as the OEM paint. They have no runs nor orange peel, just a watery sheen and high gloss that you would expect from a pro job.
It seems to take some practice to really get good at car painting. I would have to do a few cars before I would want to charge anyone for my time if I were going to become a car painter. So all you local boys would get cheap paint jobs if I were going to stay in this shack any longer.
Though I live in an old and very small house, my neighborhood is pretty affluent. Notice the AMG Benz that is always parked in the grass; this car belongs to a relative of my neighbor across the street who is a retired CPA (certified public accountant).
And that is my daily driver, the trusty 88 Integra in the driveway. 307K miles and still ticking, and 102K on my self-done rebuild from five years ago.
It seems to take some practice to really get good at car painting. I would have to do a few cars before I would want to charge anyone for my time if I were going to become a car painter. So all you local boys would get cheap paint jobs if I were going to stay in this shack any longer.
Though I live in an old and very small house, my neighborhood is pretty affluent. Notice the AMG Benz that is always parked in the grass; this car belongs to a relative of my neighbor across the street who is a retired CPA (certified public accountant).
And that is my daily driver, the trusty 88 Integra in the driveway. 307K miles and still ticking, and 102K on my self-done rebuild from five years ago.
06-21-03, 11:22 AM
#143
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Here is what a GXL looks like with the rear window and tail light frames painted:
Not bad but not quite as interesting as a stock rear hatch IMO. The FD had a painted hatch frame stock but we all know that it has a much different shape overall than the FC . . .
Although, yellow S5's look pretty sweet, I will be the first to admit. Here is forum member Omochi's car:
Not bad but not quite as interesting as a stock rear hatch IMO. The FD had a painted hatch frame stock but we all know that it has a much different shape overall than the FC . . .
Although, yellow S5's look pretty sweet, I will be the first to admit. Here is forum member Omochi's car:
Last edited by 88IntegraLS; 06-21-03 at 11:29 AM.
06-22-03, 02:39 PM
#144
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Today I began working on masking and painting the door window surrounds.
The black dries to a semi-gloss finish. It is made by Plasti-Kote and comes in a spray can, called Bumper Color.
The black dries to a semi-gloss finish. It is made by Plasti-Kote and comes in a spray can, called Bumper Color.
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