How to: Coverting N/A to TII
11-06-02, 11:39 PM
#29
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1. The N/A tranny is strong enough (its also lighter)
2. Its easier to pull the engine alone on a 2nd gen
3. Its much easier and cheaper to put a turbo on a N/A then to do the motor swap( just yank out all the wiring except the ignition stuff, take out all the injection stuff, buy a manifold from RB and a weber sidedraft carb and turbo hat from your local VW shop, get a turbo and manifold(very easy to make thanks to RB exhaust flange) get some intake tubing and done) yes its that simple.
2. Its easier to pull the engine alone on a 2nd gen
3. Its much easier and cheaper to put a turbo on a N/A then to do the motor swap( just yank out all the wiring except the ignition stuff, take out all the injection stuff, buy a manifold from RB and a weber sidedraft carb and turbo hat from your local VW shop, get a turbo and manifold(very easy to make thanks to RB exhaust flange) get some intake tubing and done) yes its that simple.
11-07-02, 08:06 PM
#30
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actually, theres things you have to consider mattrx7. when you boost a N/A, it's not really built that way. If you would want it to be reliable, you're gonna have to build up the motor to accept boost reliablity. so why not get a turbo motor that's already has all that... makes sense ..
11-07-02, 08:37 PM
#31
Originally posted by mattrx7N/A
1. The N/A tranny is strong enough (its also lighter)
2. Its easier to pull the engine alone on a 2nd gen
3. Its much easier and cheaper to put a turbo on a N/A then to do the motor swap( just yank out all the wiring except the ignition stuff, take out all the injection stuff, buy a manifold from RB and a weber sidedraft carb and turbo hat from your local VW shop, get a turbo and manifold(very easy to make thanks to RB exhaust flange) get some intake tubing and done) yes its that simple.
1. The N/A tranny is strong enough (its also lighter)
2. Its easier to pull the engine alone on a 2nd gen
3. Its much easier and cheaper to put a turbo on a N/A then to do the motor swap( just yank out all the wiring except the ignition stuff, take out all the injection stuff, buy a manifold from RB and a weber sidedraft carb and turbo hat from your local VW shop, get a turbo and manifold(very easy to make thanks to RB exhaust flange) get some intake tubing and done) yes its that simple.
I have heard of ppl breaking the n/a tranny every 2000miles from the abuse of a turbo motor.
Its gotta be hard to control the turbo with a carb, i've heard of lost of complications, its't it hard to compress air through a carb?
Last edited by Turblown; 11-07-02 at 08:48 PM.
11-07-02, 10:16 PM
#32
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Im talking from experience on this, I guess if you like to pop the clutch at 6000 you will break the tranny. And also its very easy to run a turbo with the carb you just need common sense. If you stay under 12 psi run good gas and plugs an intercooler, retard the timing the N/A engine does fine. But hey the world hates poeple who are different so just keep doing your engine swaps.
-Matt
-Matt
11-07-02, 10:35 PM
#33
Originally posted by mattrx7N/A
Im talking from experience on this, I guess if you like to pop the clutch at 6000 you will break the tranny. And also its very easy to run a turbo with the carb you just need common sense. If you stay under 12 psi run good gas and plugs an intercooler, retard the timing the N/A engine does fine. But hey the world hates poeple who are different so just keep doing your engine swaps.
-Matt
Im talking from experience on this, I guess if you like to pop the clutch at 6000 you will break the tranny. And also its very easy to run a turbo with the carb you just need common sense. If you stay under 12 psi run good gas and plugs an intercooler, retard the timing the N/A engine does fine. But hey the world hates poeple who are different so just keep doing your engine swaps.
-Matt
11-07-02, 10:46 PM
#34
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Im still waiting on the turbo for my current car but as soon as its done ill post some pics, ill put them on my thread: Cheap and Fast , as soon as possible. You can read about my 87 N/A (soon to be turbo) there.
-Matt
-Matt
11-09-02, 11:54 PM
#37
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If anyone is looking for a new ported second gen engine for this type of swap, I am selling one. Check out my thread under second gen parts. I have all the accessories needed, including a hi-po turbo, trans, digital fuel injection or the factory system, racing beat down pipe and so on. Let me know as I will be somewhat flexible on the price since I won't start my next project until I sell this drivetrain. Still in the car so I can prove what condition it is in.
11-12-02, 03:04 AM
#38
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Originally posted by GTR
actually, theres things you have to consider mattrx7. when you boost a N/A, it's not really built that way. If you would want it to be reliable, you're gonna have to build up the motor to accept boost reliablity. so why not get a turbo motor that's already has all that... makes sense ..
actually, theres things you have to consider mattrx7. when you boost a N/A, it's not really built that way. If you would want it to be reliable, you're gonna have to build up the motor to accept boost reliablity. so why not get a turbo motor that's already has all that... makes sense ..
Can't u just run a bit lower boost to make up for the higher compression of an NA engine?
11-12-02, 12:44 PM
#39
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The turbo engine has a lot of internal modifications to allow it to handle the boost and heat. I would never suggest running jmore than five pounds on a NA engine block.
11-13-02, 10:34 AM
#41
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a stock TII runs about 8 lbs, with a good downpipe and exhaust that jumps up to 9-10 lbs. I ran mine as high as 14 lbs. You can really feel the 10 pounds forcing you into your seat.
11-15-02, 06:59 AM
#43
I'd like to know It a Turbo II Motor and Tranny will bolt directly to my GXL LSD Differential (of the same year).
I know the na Tranny cannot sustain the abuse the Turbo Motor dishes out but what about the na LSD as opposed to the Turbo Differential? Would It be recommended to swap out the na one to that of a Turbo one?
*edit* I'm aware the Drive Shafts have to be replace aswell.
I know the na Tranny cannot sustain the abuse the Turbo Motor dishes out but what about the na LSD as opposed to the Turbo Differential? Would It be recommended to swap out the na one to that of a Turbo one?
*edit* I'm aware the Drive Shafts have to be replace aswell.
11-15-02, 11:27 AM
#45
Rotary Enthusiast
650 cfm #4011 holley marine, Racing beat TII intake manifold (No more waiting for Jay-Tech RIP) turbonetics pressurizer, aeromotive carburator fpr, a good fuel pump, TII turbocharger and exhaust manifold, blow off valve, early distribuitor, already existing trailing coils, some fittings, steel braided fuel lines and someone who can do the settings right.
Holley Marine 650 cfm: About $250.00
Aeromotive fpr: $150.00
Racing Beat Intake Manifold for TII: I got for $210.00
Braided lines: Depending on where you buy the price is per-foot
Fuel pump: I got a Walbro: $110.00
TII Turbo: I got for $150.00
I had the blow-off
Turbonetics pressurizer: $75.00
Fittings: $45.00
Distribuitor: $75.00
Settings: Go figure someone on your are who can do them (I got somebody)
Have fun!!!
Holley Marine 650 cfm: About $250.00
Aeromotive fpr: $150.00
Racing Beat Intake Manifold for TII: I got for $210.00
Braided lines: Depending on where you buy the price is per-foot
Fuel pump: I got a Walbro: $110.00
TII Turbo: I got for $150.00
I had the blow-off
Turbonetics pressurizer: $75.00
Fittings: $45.00
Distribuitor: $75.00
Settings: Go figure someone on your are who can do them (I got somebody)
Have fun!!!
11-18-02, 03:39 PM
#47
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Go to my site.
http://members.rogers.com/rtsracing/intro.htm
has some before and after pics of my conversion.
http://members.rogers.com/rtsracing/intro.htm
has some before and after pics of my conversion.
11-19-02, 06:31 PM
#48
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well guys i have successfully done the swap that kabooski is talking about. and there is one very important aspect that everyone is forgeting. there are three major plugs inder the passengers side dash that will not mate between the 86-88 and the 89-91 harness and a few extra wires that need to be wired into the dash if anyone needs help with this email me (when u get to this point) and i will help you
11-22-02, 08:02 AM
#50
Originally posted by Mykl
Oh, I have a recommendation.
I've not ever pulled an engine from an RX-7, but I would think that it would be much much easier to pull the engine and transmission both at the same time rather than trying to line the engine up with a transmission that's resting on a jack when you try to reinstall the engine.
I'm sure it would take a bit of maneuvering to get them both in and out at the same time, but overall I would think that it would make installation of the engine easier.
What are your thoughts on this? Do you think it would make it easier or more difficult?
Oh, I have a recommendation.
I've not ever pulled an engine from an RX-7, but I would think that it would be much much easier to pull the engine and transmission both at the same time rather than trying to line the engine up with a transmission that's resting on a jack when you try to reinstall the engine.
I'm sure it would take a bit of maneuvering to get them both in and out at the same time, but overall I would think that it would make installation of the engine easier.
What are your thoughts on this? Do you think it would make it easier or more difficult?