How To-Cleaning 5th/6th port sleeves
02-05-02, 02:26 AM
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rawr
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How To-Cleaning 5th/6th port sleeves
Ok, here we will cover the removal of the upper and lower manifold to clean the 5th and 6th port sleeves and holding area in the engine.
Tools: 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 13mm wrench, 14mm wrench, philips screw driver, Carb cleaner, a pair of wire cutters, and some 4mm and 6mm vacuum hose, pliers.
1. Remove the air tube that is going to the elbow on the throttle body, it takes a philips screw driver.
2. Remove the black plastic elbow that resides on the throttle body, it is held on by 2 12mm nuts on oblique corners.
3. Unplug the throttle position sensor plug, it is the small square black thing on the front of the throttle body.
4. Remove the oil metering pump rod from the front of the throttle body, it is held in by a small bobby pin, just get your pliers and pull it out, make sure you keep this for putting it back together.
5. Disconnect your throttle cables from the rear of the throttle body, there will be 2 if you have cruise control.
6. (you can do this if you want, but its not required) Remove the throttle body, it is held on by 4, 12mm nuts, one on each corner of the throttle body.
7. (only some 86-88's have this, if yours doesnt skip this step) There is a small piece on the passenger side of the intake manifold that is held on by a 10mm nut and a 10mm bolt, it runs to the cold start assist bottle on the passenger side, the bottle is located behind the charcoal filter, that is the black round thing on the passenger side fender.
8. Remove the upper fuel rail now that it is accessible, it is held on by 2 12mm bolts, loosen one then the other and proceed to take them out, be careful if you want to remove the injectors from the rail, some fuel rails fit tight and will shred the upper o-rings and leak fuel, but some rails are not. (you can remove the fuel hose at both ends of the fuel rail to make removing it easier, but i dont do this)
9. There are 4 nuts at the base of the upper intake, remove these 4 nuts, after you remove those go up just a little and in the middle of the intake there will be a 12mm bolt that needs to be removed also.
10. Right behind the alternator is an intake manifold mount, the bolt there is also 12mm, remove that.
11. Driver side of the car, there are 3 more intake manifold mount bolts, 2 are near the firewall, and 1 is toward the front of the car.
12. Remove the Bypass Air Control valve, it is held on by 2 10mm nuts.
13. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the accelerator cable in place.
14. Go down a little and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding on the round thing (sorry dont know its name)
15. Move to the side a little and unplug the intake air sensor.
16. Remove all the vacuum hoses, there are 3 on the passenger side of the intake, 2 on the firewall side of the dynamic chamber, 3 on the fan side of the dynamic chamber, 1 on the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure regulator), 1 on the passenger side of the intake.
17. After everything is taken off of the manifold, pull it up from the dynamic chamber, (the dynamic chamber is the part of the manifold that you see right behind the throttle body, it says 13B Mazda on it)
18. Now that the upper piece of the intake manifold is removed you can see your primary injectors, your EGR valve, and other various stuff
19. Now comes the weird part, there is a vacuum "spider" going to the 4 oil injectors, 2 of the oil injectors are placed on the lower intake manifold piece, and 2 are placed on the engine block itself. If your vacuum hoses are old and brittle this is where your wire cutters come in handy, ive broken 5 of those damn spider vacuum splitters, if the hoses are brittle cut them about 1" away from the spider, do this for all 4 hoses and take off the small piece of hose that was left on it, and remove the hoses from the oil injectors on the manifold and engine and replace them when you put it back together.
20. In the cars ive had, 2 of them took a 13mm wrench to unscrew the oil injectors from the manifold, and 2 of them took 14mm wrench, so i cant really say what size to use there, but after you have removed the vacuum hoses take the oil injectors out.
21. Remove the vacuum hoses from the lower intake manifold, ive broken those too forgetting they were there.
22. Unplug both of the wires from your Air Control Valve, there is a black plug and a white plug, the plugs are located where you unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor.
23. The lower intake manifold is held on by 6 12mm nuts, there are 2 on the fire wall side, 2 on the front end side, and 2 in the middle of the manifold on the bottom side, now pull your lower manifold piece off.
24. Now you can see the side of your engine, the 5th and 6th port sleeves are in the upper round intake holes, if they are stuck you will need to use your pliers to pull them out, grab them by the little bar that is in the middle of them and twist and pull out. (make a mental note of the position of the sleeves so you will put them back in correctly, they should be in this direction (firewall side -----> / \<----- front end side)
25. Take your favorite brand of carb cleaner and spray the heck out of the sleeves, some steel wool or fine sanding paper comes in handy here, because some of this stuff is really gunked on there.
26. After the sleeves are cleaned put them back into their designated spots, take your pliers and turn them from side to side, if they are still kinda hard to turn, get your carb cleaner and shoot a little into the ports, then put your sleeves back in and turn them again.
27. After you get them cleaned and turning as freely as you feel they need be, put everything back together the way it was removed, make sure all vacuum hoses are hooked up, if you cut the hoses on the spider for the oil injectors make sure to replace the vacuum hoses for them.
Side note: IF you broke your vacuum "spider" for your oil injectors, mazdatrix sells them, but if you need to drive the car until you can order one go to your local auto parts store, get a T-off that has 5 outlets, it will have 1 outlet at each end, and 3 on the bottom, you will also need a step up adaptor for this, it will have a small side and a bigger side (4mm to 6mm), i will get some pictures of what i am talking about soon and post them so you can see for yourselved if you accidentally break a spider.
Tools: 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 13mm wrench, 14mm wrench, philips screw driver, Carb cleaner, a pair of wire cutters, and some 4mm and 6mm vacuum hose, pliers.
1. Remove the air tube that is going to the elbow on the throttle body, it takes a philips screw driver.
2. Remove the black plastic elbow that resides on the throttle body, it is held on by 2 12mm nuts on oblique corners.
3. Unplug the throttle position sensor plug, it is the small square black thing on the front of the throttle body.
4. Remove the oil metering pump rod from the front of the throttle body, it is held in by a small bobby pin, just get your pliers and pull it out, make sure you keep this for putting it back together.
5. Disconnect your throttle cables from the rear of the throttle body, there will be 2 if you have cruise control.
6. (you can do this if you want, but its not required) Remove the throttle body, it is held on by 4, 12mm nuts, one on each corner of the throttle body.
7. (only some 86-88's have this, if yours doesnt skip this step) There is a small piece on the passenger side of the intake manifold that is held on by a 10mm nut and a 10mm bolt, it runs to the cold start assist bottle on the passenger side, the bottle is located behind the charcoal filter, that is the black round thing on the passenger side fender.
8. Remove the upper fuel rail now that it is accessible, it is held on by 2 12mm bolts, loosen one then the other and proceed to take them out, be careful if you want to remove the injectors from the rail, some fuel rails fit tight and will shred the upper o-rings and leak fuel, but some rails are not. (you can remove the fuel hose at both ends of the fuel rail to make removing it easier, but i dont do this)
9. There are 4 nuts at the base of the upper intake, remove these 4 nuts, after you remove those go up just a little and in the middle of the intake there will be a 12mm bolt that needs to be removed also.
10. Right behind the alternator is an intake manifold mount, the bolt there is also 12mm, remove that.
11. Driver side of the car, there are 3 more intake manifold mount bolts, 2 are near the firewall, and 1 is toward the front of the car.
12. Remove the Bypass Air Control valve, it is held on by 2 10mm nuts.
13. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the accelerator cable in place.
14. Go down a little and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding on the round thing (sorry dont know its name)
15. Move to the side a little and unplug the intake air sensor.
16. Remove all the vacuum hoses, there are 3 on the passenger side of the intake, 2 on the firewall side of the dynamic chamber, 3 on the fan side of the dynamic chamber, 1 on the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure regulator), 1 on the passenger side of the intake.
17. After everything is taken off of the manifold, pull it up from the dynamic chamber, (the dynamic chamber is the part of the manifold that you see right behind the throttle body, it says 13B Mazda on it)
18. Now that the upper piece of the intake manifold is removed you can see your primary injectors, your EGR valve, and other various stuff
19. Now comes the weird part, there is a vacuum "spider" going to the 4 oil injectors, 2 of the oil injectors are placed on the lower intake manifold piece, and 2 are placed on the engine block itself. If your vacuum hoses are old and brittle this is where your wire cutters come in handy, ive broken 5 of those damn spider vacuum splitters, if the hoses are brittle cut them about 1" away from the spider, do this for all 4 hoses and take off the small piece of hose that was left on it, and remove the hoses from the oil injectors on the manifold and engine and replace them when you put it back together.
20. In the cars ive had, 2 of them took a 13mm wrench to unscrew the oil injectors from the manifold, and 2 of them took 14mm wrench, so i cant really say what size to use there, but after you have removed the vacuum hoses take the oil injectors out.
21. Remove the vacuum hoses from the lower intake manifold, ive broken those too forgetting they were there.
22. Unplug both of the wires from your Air Control Valve, there is a black plug and a white plug, the plugs are located where you unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor.
23. The lower intake manifold is held on by 6 12mm nuts, there are 2 on the fire wall side, 2 on the front end side, and 2 in the middle of the manifold on the bottom side, now pull your lower manifold piece off.
24. Now you can see the side of your engine, the 5th and 6th port sleeves are in the upper round intake holes, if they are stuck you will need to use your pliers to pull them out, grab them by the little bar that is in the middle of them and twist and pull out. (make a mental note of the position of the sleeves so you will put them back in correctly, they should be in this direction (firewall side -----> / \<----- front end side)
25. Take your favorite brand of carb cleaner and spray the heck out of the sleeves, some steel wool or fine sanding paper comes in handy here, because some of this stuff is really gunked on there.
26. After the sleeves are cleaned put them back into their designated spots, take your pliers and turn them from side to side, if they are still kinda hard to turn, get your carb cleaner and shoot a little into the ports, then put your sleeves back in and turn them again.
27. After you get them cleaned and turning as freely as you feel they need be, put everything back together the way it was removed, make sure all vacuum hoses are hooked up, if you cut the hoses on the spider for the oil injectors make sure to replace the vacuum hoses for them.
Side note: IF you broke your vacuum "spider" for your oil injectors, mazdatrix sells them, but if you need to drive the car until you can order one go to your local auto parts store, get a T-off that has 5 outlets, it will have 1 outlet at each end, and 3 on the bottom, you will also need a step up adaptor for this, it will have a small side and a bigger side (4mm to 6mm), i will get some pictures of what i am talking about soon and post them so you can see for yourselved if you accidentally break a spider.
02-05-02, 02:33 AM
#2
rawr
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well im gonna be the first to rate this so we can get it into the archives for future reference to new 7 owners, or someone trying to do their own wrenching to save $$$
02-05-02, 07:36 AM
#3
My cars louder than yours
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Damn that spider, you can also get three "T's" from the sprinkler section of lowes/home depot, for the small *** hose, and hook them up assortedly, bc i cant find a damn five way T anywhere. Just another alternative.
Hey AgentD... i have a screw left over... heh.. it goes under the dynamic chamber..... .. .. i can see the hole, and see the screw.. but... it doesnt look like it does jack ****, no bracket with it or anything..--shrug--.. I screwed something, oh well.. it runs, haha, take care man
Hey AgentD... i have a screw left over... heh.. it goes under the dynamic chamber..... .. .. i can see the hole, and see the screw.. but... it doesnt look like it does jack ****, no bracket with it or anything..--shrug--.. I screwed something, oh well.. it runs, haha, take care man
02-05-02, 02:07 PM
#4
rawr
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lol, i usually have a bolt or 2 left over when im done too roy most of the time they are the intake mount bolts, but hey, it still works great so its all good lol
most of the time they are the intake mount bolts, but hey, it still works great so its all good lol
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11-18-02, 01:38 AM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
I found it easier to let the sleeves soak overnight in the bucket of "if this touches your skin you will die" carburetor cleaner.
after 12 hours i took them out and they were bright and shiney. the carbon had dissolved and just came out as a black goo
after 12 hours i took them out and they were bright and shiney. the carbon had dissolved and just came out as a black goo
12-13-02, 12:44 PM
#12
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I'm gonna put this up on my site (with your permission of course 
). I think it's important to mention the "while your down there" stuff:
Replace injectors (primaries most importantly)
Bock off EGR valve
Replace pulsation damper (a must!)
Anything else?
edit: Wow, this is 10 months old.
). I think it's important to mention the "while your down there" stuff:Replace injectors (primaries most importantly)
Bock off EGR valve
Replace pulsation damper (a must!)
Anything else?
edit: Wow, this is 10 months old.
12-13-02, 02:08 PM
#13
What you lookin' at?
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Originally posted by 88 SE
I found it easier to let the sleeves soak overnight in the bucket of "if this touches your skin you will die" carburetor cleaner.
after 12 hours i took them out and they were bright and shiney. the carbon had dissolved and just came out as a black goo
I found it easier to let the sleeves soak overnight in the bucket of "if this touches your skin you will die" carburetor cleaner.
after 12 hours i took them out and they were bright and shiney. the carbon had dissolved and just came out as a black goo
Is there any particular brand of carb cleaner that works the best??
04-22-03, 08:54 PM
#21
Great article, but I have a BIG question. I've seen about oh....9 second gen cars come into my dads shop with blown motors. These engine jobs are a result of somebody driving the car slowly most of its life, shifting
below 4k in city driving, which after many years causes the bluidup of carbon on the secondary ports. Then you get a guy like me who buys that car and runs the crap out it, the secondarys open, and boom! Alll the carbon falls into the motor and takes out an apex seal(s). SO... if by chance when you are removing the ports with a pair of pliers (which I've had some that even with pliers wont come out) it breaks loose and all that stuff falls into the motor, what happens then?? and when you are sanding and cleaning the ports, does that go into the motor too? I think I should warn people that this cleaning will be fine for some lucky guys, where the build-up is not bad, but for others an engine job could be the result! Dont want to sound mean, but this is a risky area to clean!! Thanks
below 4k in city driving, which after many years causes the bluidup of carbon on the secondary ports. Then you get a guy like me who buys that car and runs the crap out it, the secondarys open, and boom! Alll the carbon falls into the motor and takes out an apex seal(s). SO... if by chance when you are removing the ports with a pair of pliers (which I've had some that even with pliers wont come out) it breaks loose and all that stuff falls into the motor, what happens then?? and when you are sanding and cleaning the ports, does that go into the motor too? I think I should warn people that this cleaning will be fine for some lucky guys, where the build-up is not bad, but for others an engine job could be the result! Dont want to sound mean, but this is a risky area to clean!! Thanks
04-22-03, 11:46 PM
#22
Sir Coolness
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Good write up Agent Sometime we'll have to get those pictures I took of of half the job put up with the write up, that way people can see what they should be yanking at...
Sometime we'll have to get those pictures I took of of half the job put up with the write up, that way people can see what they should be yanking at...
04-24-03, 02:02 AM
#23
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ok, everythings apart and cleaned but my secondary port actuators are frozen. i cant move them at all. i even took a pair of pliers to try to turn it. it only moved a little bit. ididnt wanna kill n end up breakin it. how do i un-freeze them. i sprayed the crap out them with penatrating oil but it didnt budge. any others solutions i can try? thanks.
04-24-03, 01:54 PM
#25
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I've had luck punching them out. This means you'll probably have to replace the original. Two of three engines I've torn down had the rods siezed like this. The carb cleaner doesn't seem to be enough.