Fully Blown Electric Auxilliary Port Activation...
11-15-02, 09:11 PM
#78
QC Motorsports
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Yes, as a matter of fact. This is a great thread but without the pictures on how it is done, some of us can't really grasp how to do it. If I can see it I can do it. It would be very helpful if you could please show us some pics. Please,
Charles
Charles
11-16-02, 05:20 PM
#79
Good to see you have some Interest In this setup Charles. I'd like to get some pics up soon but the truth of the matter Is, It Is quite simple providing you follow the Instructions of the Install to the RPM Switch and the Illustrated diagram for the Input of the Air Compressor.
11-17-02, 07:59 PM
#80
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I would love to do this project when I start really modding my car so I can go with some lighter stuff. About how much was your whole project on this? The compressor and such.
Charles
Charles
11-18-02, 06:57 AM
#81
Actually quite cheap.
With the RPM Switch = $50
With the Air Compressor = $30
LED Light (optional) = $2
Fully Blown Electric Auxilliary Port Setup = Priceless
After that, all Is needed Is a couple of Female 1/4' connectors and speaker wire. A real bang for your back project!
With the RPM Switch = $50
With the Air Compressor = $30
LED Light (optional) = $2
Fully Blown Electric Auxilliary Port Setup = Priceless
After that, all Is needed Is a couple of Female 1/4' connectors and speaker wire. A real bang for your back project!
11-18-02, 09:44 AM
#82
Originally posted by HAILERS
On a series four(wifes stock car), I've ridden around with a spare lower intake manifold in the front seat, with its vac(pressure) hose tee'd into the one on the engines lower intake manifold. While driving, I saw the actuators begin to open around 3500 and would finally fully open around 5000. That was a completly stock car.
On a series four(wifes stock car), I've ridden around with a spare lower intake manifold in the front seat, with its vac(pressure) hose tee'd into the one on the engines lower intake manifold. While driving, I saw the actuators begin to open around 3500 and would finally fully open around 5000. That was a completly stock car.
11-18-02, 10:45 AM
#83
HAILERS
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jacobcartmill.......just got tired of all the second guessing on how and when they work, and had some well founded doubt about the way my RB header and presilencer(approx 1997 version) actuated the aux ports. That was not working worth a flip. They used a 1/8 th inch dia tube directly from the lead exaust port. Finally settled recently on the Summit Racing Rpm switching device and a spare RX solenoid combined with the output of the airpump to actuate the things. Beware the Summit RAcing switching device for a RX. The device does not work per the instructions. It requires taking the top of the box off and adjusting a trim pot to make the switching happen under 5000 rpm. Not a big deal. TAkes only about ten minutes once you realize that is the only way to set the rpm happen under five grand, as described in some of the above posts. And I know what your thinking, but there is no switch to set it to run for a four, six, eight or twelve cylinder, like other switching devices on the market.
11-21-02, 12:03 AM
#85
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Originally posted by peacekeeper
Wth this on how will it affect the use og the air pump if I still have a cat? I can't get rid of it can I?
Charles
Wth this on how will it affect the use og the air pump if I still have a cat? I can't get rid of it can I?
Charles
The whole point of having this device is if the high flow exhaust you're running for an S4 does not have not enough back pressure to activate the aux ports. This device will do the trick. Ditching the air pump makes sense in this case unless you're running a high flow cat instead.
On a S5 like mine, aux ports and VDI are activated via the pressure from the airpump(& not from exhaust back pressure). I got rid of the airpump since I'm catless and it just makes for a cleaner looking engine bay with better access to other stuff. Of course a bit less parasitc drag help a lil too.
Hope that helps!
11-21-02, 11:49 AM
#86
Exactly.
What we have here are 2 mutually exclusive systems. Both Independant. If you'd like, you could cap the Spit Air Pipe off (nipple to air feed line going to Manifold that supplies air to Auxilliary Ports) awhile retaining the Air Pump, Air Control Valve and Split Air Pipe. Alternatively, strip all the above, get a block off plate for rhe ACV and have a tidier engine bay.
My setup could be used with the emissions or not. But If choose to use It with all the equipment on, than cap off the SAP. With emissions OFF, besure to remove the Cat. Otherwise, you'll smoke It In mere weeks.
What we have here are 2 mutually exclusive systems. Both Independant. If you'd like, you could cap the Spit Air Pipe off (nipple to air feed line going to Manifold that supplies air to Auxilliary Ports) awhile retaining the Air Pump, Air Control Valve and Split Air Pipe. Alternatively, strip all the above, get a block off plate for rhe ACV and have a tidier engine bay.
My setup could be used with the emissions or not. But If choose to use It with all the equipment on, than cap off the SAP. With emissions OFF, besure to remove the Cat. Otherwise, you'll smoke It In mere weeks.
11-24-02, 11:02 PM
#88
Hailers/// I've seen the new Summit RPM Switches (part #sum-830449). Although the same In appearance, as the old ones, the phillips screw adjuster faces the side wall rather than facing straight up, as you've mentioned before. Strange on how they set the new ones up.
11-25-02, 06:52 PM
#89
With the provided diagram a woops has been made. For the 86 terminal, be sure to positive charge It. Not ground It as the aformentioned suggests. I have mine wired directly to the Battery.
BTW, til present, I can't complain about this setup, except maybe the buzzer, the Air Compressor gives off, when Its supercharged.
Note! A few changes must be made If you are to follow this schematic.
-Substitute the Temp Switch with the RPM Switch
-Substitute the Fan Motor with the Air Compressor
-Under 87 Terminal, positive charge It rather than ground It. I wired It directly to the Battery.
BTW, til present, I can't complain about this setup, except maybe the buzzer, the Air Compressor gives off, when Its supercharged.
Note! A few changes must be made If you are to follow this schematic.
-Substitute the Temp Switch with the RPM Switch
-Substitute the Fan Motor with the Air Compressor
-Under 87 Terminal, positive charge It rather than ground It. I wired It directly to the Battery.
Last edited by Icemark; 11-30-03 at 11:45 AM.
12-12-02, 10:31 AM
#91
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How would one go about adapting this system to an S5 car. Are there RPM switches available that will output two seperate signals for 6port and VDI. Or would two RPM switches be needed and set at the appropriate settings for the two systems?
Silverrotor...any updates? Hows everything working out?
Silverrotor...any updates? Hows everything working out?
12-12-02, 04:22 PM
#92
If you were going to do this on your s5, It would be no different. The only exception to this would be you have, already, a solenoid to open up your Auxilliary Ports. The only difference? It's not adjustable. Or you are removing your Air Pump. In this case, use the Leading Coil Pack (preference) to activate them.
To my understanding, their aren't any RPM Switches, that you could use, that serve to function at 2 different settings. You'd have to have an additional Switch at the Trailing Coil Pack to activate the VDI Valve. *Note* I know Wozzom Is doing this. Get a hold of him for finer details.
Having the same switch like the one I have, just set the settings at the lowest setting and fine tune It via the adjustable Phillips Head Screw. Done. That will set the VDI to your liking.
In terms of air supply, aka Air Compressor AC, you could get an additional one or simply create a tee Into the 6 port air line. I prefer the latter suggestion... By having It this way, your 6 ports will open before the VDI ensuring the unnecessity of having an additional Air Compressor and depending at what desired RPM you have set for the VDI, both of them will have an air source at the same time. It just makes sense that way.
How Is holding up? Great! It activates when I want, all the time. The only other thing I've done was changed the fuse to that of a 15amp one and soldered all my connections. Since than, I do notice a better sound coming of the Air Compressor.
The only thing I had to overcome was the sound barrier the Air Compressor was putting out. Freaken loud, but worth It. I've since than Insulated the AC, and has done wonders. Bullet proof...
To my understanding, their aren't any RPM Switches, that you could use, that serve to function at 2 different settings. You'd have to have an additional Switch at the Trailing Coil Pack to activate the VDI Valve. *Note* I know Wozzom Is doing this. Get a hold of him for finer details.
Having the same switch like the one I have, just set the settings at the lowest setting and fine tune It via the adjustable Phillips Head Screw. Done. That will set the VDI to your liking.
In terms of air supply, aka Air Compressor AC, you could get an additional one or simply create a tee Into the 6 port air line. I prefer the latter suggestion... By having It this way, your 6 ports will open before the VDI ensuring the unnecessity of having an additional Air Compressor and depending at what desired RPM you have set for the VDI, both of them will have an air source at the same time. It just makes sense that way.
How Is holding up? Great! It activates when I want, all the time. The only other thing I've done was changed the fuse to that of a 15amp one and soldered all my connections. Since than, I do notice a better sound coming of the Air Compressor.
The only thing I had to overcome was the sound barrier the Air Compressor was putting out. Freaken loud, but worth It. I've since than Insulated the AC, and has done wonders. Bullet proof...
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