i dont know about all that weight redux business.

i heard 100lbs of sprung weight is only worth a tenth of a second in the quarter-mile.

doesnt sound like its worth the effort to me.

 

1 tenth makes all the difference.
10.00 or a 9.99?
it definetly isnt significant enough for everyone to do it...but just think, ITS FREE

 

actually a tenth of a second would be 0.1 so it would be 10.0 or 9.9

 

I'd rather be Canadian then the alternative

 

From http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/et.htm

@130 wheel horsepower... a fair estimate. Remember to add in your weight, as well as gasoline, oil, washer fluid, etc, etc.. It all really adds up!

weight (lbs) ET (s)
3000 16.584
2900 16.397
2800 16.207
2700 16.012
2600 15.811
2500 15.606
2400 15.395
2300 15.178
2200 14.955
2100 14.725
2000 14.487
1500 13.163
1000 11.499
500 9.127


That's over two full seconds by removing going from 3000 lbs to 2000 lbs. As you take more out, each additional reduction helps even more than the last one.

If you find a way to get your 2nd gen down to 2000 lbs with you in it, then you will be my god. I think ~2600 w/ driver is pretty reasonable, however--tho prolly not comfy.

-Tesla

 

I designed my stereo to wiegh under 35 #
The stock one I took out weighed just under 25# so I figured that 10 extra would not be that big of a deal. That includes every thing. the CD player, the speakers the amp rack, box and all the wire I put in. 33.5 # total. Fro a single 10", seperates up front and 6.5" in the back with a RF 800.4 as the amp and crossover.

 

Getting rid of the EGR is not a great idea, the exhaust gases recirculated, believe it or not, reduce combustion chamber temps, and reduces the volatility of the air/fuel charge, which reduces the engines tendency to knock, or ping, its not just strictly and emmisions device, it was actually designed to help with shitty pump gas that came around after the 'unleaded' revolution...Max

 

It does reduce cubustion temps but only at low rpm. so after 200 RPM it does nothing. if you car knocks below 2000 then it is not tuned correctly. if your car knocks at all it isn't tuned right.

 

Can you remove the A/C without reomving the engine (mine leaks somewhere anyway)?

 

yes it is underneith the PS pump. the PS pump has to come off first though. I removed all the hoses first then the condenser coil infront of the radiator. then I got the compressor.
Hear is a tip. use two wrenches on the hard lines. don't try to remove them using burt force. you will only twist the lines.

 

Ok im trying to recall what my brother exactly did to his conquest that i wouldnt do...grrrr...im want to say they eliminated the external wastegate and ran max boost constantly, im not sure if the wastegate is exactly what they messed with because I was told this so long ago, but my cousin did it to his conquest as well and never had any problems...this was on a 16g too :P but on another the note the rx7's ecu wont allow this sort of thing...bastards :P
Jeff

 

A 500lb. rx-7?

 

I STRONGLY agree, its good to be Canadian right NOW!

 

We need to archive this thread when everyone puts their tips in...this is great stuff.

 

It's always good to be Canadian, not just right now

 

Here's a good one! What you do is remove the drivers side windshield wiper. Next, you loosen the passenger side wiper and adjust it so that it rests 1/4 up the windshield. Now you've got a "cool" single wiper conversion!! Didn't cost a penny!

Next mod: Indiglo Intercooler....

DING!!

 

Hey that sounds COOL! Will the passenger side wiper 1/4 of the way up, clean both sides of the windshield effectively? Cause here where I'm from, it rains all the time! So wiper action is important to me...

 

Every ghetto rice boy honda in my town has that stupid one wiper, race car rip off. I think thats about as big of a waste of time as you can pull off. GOD gave your rx7 2 wipers for a reason!

 

T2 big can exhaust mufflers are less restrictive than standard round NA cans. Cheap wrecking yard play. 89-91's drop right in.

 

Disconnect the silencer to the ACV valve. It doesn't add any HP, and i don't know if it hurts the engine at all. But it's free, and it gives it a really cool sound. kinda like a Indy car (so i'm told) or a turbo if you don't already have one.

 

what reason was that?
not that I will ever do that
PS...how do i get it to quote the users name as well or do just type it in?
jeff

 

Put a "Powered by Honda" or a "VTEC" sticker on it...well...wait
maybe not

 

God gave MY RX-7 3 wipers. :p

 

What, like that?

Lower, right hand corner of every post. You have to be in the "reading" not the "writing" stage.

Ren

 

Remove:

PS pump, PS hoses, PS cooler, PS Rack, tilt steering column, PS pump/A/C comp bracket, PS controller (above steering column under dash), PS pump crank pulley

Install:

Manual steering rack, non-tilt steering column, non-PS A/C bracket.

Weight savings: at least 50lb You'd be surprised at the weight difference between the two steering columns. The non-tilt column easily weighs less then half what the tilt does.

Better yet, remove all the A/C stuff while you're at it, and ditch the A/C bracket altogether for another easy 50lb.

Drop those 18x8" monster locomotive wheels in favor of light-weight 15x6.5" 'vert wheels. Rotating masses get harder and harder to accelerate as they get heavier.

Remove ALL interior trim, save driver's seat. Includes door panels, center console, carpet. leave dash in place, but gut it as much as posible. Leave door and window seals intact.

Convert power windows and mirrors to manual.

Get a good working relationship going with your local pick-n-pull junkyard.

Join SCCA ($25/yr) and have fun!

Ren