larsyoung

An epoxy resin base expanding foam can be bought at a marine supply store for about $30 for a 2 quart, 2 part system. 2 gallons is about $80. The marine grade stuff expands to about 40x the volume and is incredibly tough. It's just mixed in a can and poured in.
I don't think that tilting the car forward, as posted above, will have much effect on the expanding foam. It will expand wherever it wants and also where you don't want it. What's important is the bonding of the foam to the frame. If this doesn’t happen, the foam is useless.
Lars

RETed

Good point.&nbsp The majority of situations is that we can't go in there and clean out the surface for proper surface adhesion.&nbsp This ends up being a cross-your-fingers-and-pray thing - well, at least the car WILL be quieter.



-Ted

FPrep2ndGenRX7

Found the link.

http://www.itwfoamseal.com/auto_aftermarket.htm

Jerk_Racer

RarestRX: That is good info. Your buddy that did it brought up a good point on that site. That his springs became much more effective with a stiffer frame. That sounds like something that is very noticeable.
I've always subscribed to the belief if you get sh!+ cheap, you get cheap sh!+. I expected to send a bit to get the right stuff. But from what it sounds like it'll be worth it. Both the initial cost and the effort. I can hardly wait to get all messy doing this.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

RarestRX

Yo,


No problem, Jon is hella hardcore. You get a chance to watch his videos? He gets a couple baby drifts on in the parking lot at Candlestick.

Gotta love his garage:

http://www.geocities.com/dorifto/AE8.../17_w_RX-7.htm

Gotta cut and paste I think, it's on GeoShitties.

Have fun!

KS
1989 GTUs "Just got my OMP shift ****!"

Sniper_X

If your afraid of entombing your harness, or other wires, just place a flexible tube in the channel PRIOR to foaming it.

Then after its cured, cut the tubes flush with the foam.

when you want to run more wires, just use a hoat hanger or fish tape to run it through the tube.

put tubes all over the place in your car where ever you want to run wires without having to pry back seats or other parts.

I did it without foaming my car to run speaker and power wires for car audio.

People thought i was nuts for doing the extra work, but all those cars now can have the wiring replaced in minutes compared to the hour+ it would take to upgrade/replace wires.

sounds good enought to use in foamed areas...

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

We in the electrical business like to call it "conduit." Wow, do I feel special now. :-)

SoloIIdrift

this thread should be archived

SoloIIdrift

So who do I have to talk to about becoming a MOD, SOME MOD PLEASE ARCHIVE THIS!!!

88FC3S

iTrader: (2)

Wicks sells that stuff. I have used it before on a Formula SAE car. Here is the link http://www.wicksaircraft.com/showPage.phtml?pagenum=67

SoloIIdrift

banzaitoyota

There has been discussions doing this in another thread. Thought I would revive this one. John

rx7_ragtop

Hmmm... I missed this one before. I wonder how much this would help a 'vert?

Spank

iTrader: (1)

This stuff is not dense enough. I have found 2,3,5,10,15 lb per qubic foot. The stuff here is only 2 lbs per cubic feet.

If you are going to do it use stuff that is denser and will make a difference.

Spank

ilike2eatricers

back from the dead!

I think Icemark recently did this.

koukifc3s

iTrader: (3)

that looks very interesting!

Icemark

I did my vert, and the easiest comparison would be with the top down, it is now as stiff as if the top was up and latched.

ilike2eatricers

So to those of us who have never driven a vert I'm assuming that's a day and night difference?

ajsuper7

its not day and night, but with the top down you do feel a small difference going over bumps and potholes.

so is there a decision on what brand is effective and where to buy it? i would definitly concider doing it to my 91 coupe just to make things a little bit better, i kinda feel that the chasis is a little loose for my taste, it doesnt inspire confidence like in stiffer cars.

GregSL-SE

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/those-think-i-dont-make-mistakes-those-know-better-foaming-frame-329353/
I don't know if that'll work but you guys should check out icemark's thread on this. It is informative and shows what he did with good results

Bob_The_Normal

I'd like to hear more about this... is there any access point to put this stuff in the B pillars or would it need to be drilled? I haven't pulled off the plastic cover that's on that pillar yet in my parts car...

And does anyone have a specific site to get this stuff from or some advice on finding it... I mean, I live in LA I'm sure there's a few places around here to pick it up.

--Gary

DerangedHermit

A good diagram of where to do this would be good.

inflatablepets

I hate to argue your point, but the expanding foam will not work properly. It does shrink a bit over time and causes rattles.

koukifc3s

iTrader: (3)

so what can we use?

inflatablepets

Not the Home Depot stuff. You need the two-part system. I believe it's called Icynene. It's what the pros that insulate exterior walls in some commercial and residential buildings. Personally I hate it when this system is used on metal stud framing because as it sets up it tweaks the metal studs a bit unless you put lateral bracing on the walls. That has nothing to do with stiffening a car though.