Tankeyes

I have seen this car in person and let me tell you, its beautiful. Oh, btw, I am a student at his work, that's how I've seen it

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Hm, the way I understood it the 4 port lower intake would not fit the 6 port block...The bolt holes are different? Could be wrong, since I did not even consider doing this. Will the NA upper intake bolt to the TII lower intake? What about oil injectors?

Honestly, it doesn't seem like there would be a gain using the TII intake. The 6 port intake is much better matched to the engine.

Xentrix

Ok I talked with busy13b extensively about this. He says the lower manifold will bolt on. He tried it, but the 6 ports don't match up exactly. He said it was possible to port the lower manifold to match up. I have access to die/dye (sp?) grinder and all that stuff so porting shouldn't be hard. I want to talk to someone who has done it before but noone is replying to PM's. My plan is to just get the turbo on and then later build a high compression turbo engine. From what me and busy13b talked about was I could use a turbo front cover for the oil lines *I just asked CJ (ridge_tech) and he said that a series 4 t2 front cover has the mechanical oil pump and that should take care of that. After this last week of exams I'll break out the service manuals and check all the stuff out. I am working with CJ to see if this is a possiblity. He knows more about the engines than I do, but I've helped him with engine swaps ect.. I am leaning toward going this route because I have so many parts already. the only things I need are a lower manifold (I've got a broken lower t2 one) and a upper fuel rail.

Ugg I'm confused after reading that but right now I'm more concerned with my exam at 6 tonight. I hope that helps

blu_gxl

aaron, ya i hear you on the tubing i was just suggesting the change while it was easy to get to because you migh not like the responce of the gauge with the small tubing.

james

VtekEater

Hey man glad to see your progress

rotorbrain

you know it does sound hairbrained, but sniper might have something here. maybe its time for a noodle dance. sorry i have a 4 yr. old sister that likes to watch PB&J Otter on nickelodeon. haha. im seriously gonna look into this. hmmmmmmmmm. that would take some nice, and i do mean nice, fabrication though. a turbo timer that hooks up to an oil pump. . . . . . . . .

Sniper_X

I know its hairbrained too.

Apparently this is NOT how they work, so whn I get my 1st turbo car, this IS what im going to do.

I dont see any sense in running th whole car just to cool the turbo.

Hell it would cool it MORE to just pump oil.

I will be modifying a pre-lubing system (that i was going to install on my car) to be a POST lubeing system too.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

When you run the car, you also pump coolant through the turbo. It does quite a lot of cooling. Really, the turbo timer does three things:

1. Allows the turbo to spin down and be lubed at the same time
2. Cools the turbo by circulating oil
3. Cools the turbo by circulating coolant

Running the car easily accomplishes these three things without the added weight and complexity of other pumps, hoses that could burst, etc.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Oh, by the way, I will post more pics on Monday/Tuesday since i am doing all the intercooler piping and oil/water piping this weekend. Going ot pick up my rented pipe bender in a few minutes actually.

rxrotary2_7

what would it hurt? personaly i dont see a reason to make the install any more complicated than the 2.5 minute job it is. what is the point? so you motor spins around and combusts a few less times??????

rotorbrain

i knew i wasnt thinking about something!! i know there was something else. wouldnt all that coolant sitting there just get even hotter and possibly expand even more? i cant think right now. but really 3-5 (i put that there cause if you drive spirited then thats about where youll be at) minutes isnt really that long to run a car. if you are worried about gas mileage, then i doubt that it really affects it that much. remember that you are cooling the TURBO. so it only needs to sit there not spooling . . . with the fluids moving through it of course.

i think the pre-lube would be nice though. keep on with that.

Sniper_X

I have a circuit that im holding onto until I do it that should be AWESOME.

It suffices to say however, that electric fans would have been installed in my car.

This includes the oil cooler or any aftermarket oil cooling / radiator that I install.

This would keep the oil/coolant from getting hotter and hotter.

My circuit and mods are all secret until I can build a prototype.

I have a red GXL in the body shop now getting ready to be the first recipient after the supercharging engine is done.

One particular aspect of it i will share...
(possibly the coolest part of it)

Is that the car uses a "start" button to start the car.
However, the start button does not actually turn the starter until the oil pressure guage registers full oil pressure first.

So, you turn the key, press the start button, hear the pre-luber/post luber start, then the oild pressure rises, then the starter turns.

release the button when the car is started.

After running, the fans stay on until the car is cooler/or a certain time has elapsed, and the post lubrication system is on until the turbo is cooled down.

All of this after runn electrics are governed by a "low battery" sensor. If the battery is too low, it will not postlube, post cool the car.

I intend on using a high amp alternator and battery because my power requirements for all this and MUCH MORE will be signifigant.

Heres a clue as to the whole project......

I intend to build a GXL as if it were released in 2003.

Sniper_X

turbo II addict

iTrader: (1)

let us know how it goes

Sniper_X

Rest assured, we dont do things like this to keep them to ourselves..

I intend to make a website outlining the mods and process from start to finish.

rotorbrain

hey sniper, that is awesome. i wish i had enough time and money to have a project like that, but im only 20 years old and i own an fd so it consumes all my time and money. haha. let me know when you get this website up. btigert@bellsouth.net i dont check the 2nd gen forum all the time do i dont want to miss out on that. take it easy.

Sniper_X

You see to have done a nice job with that MAZ-DEER tractor.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Can we perhaps keep this other stuff out of this topic? It's too OT to be here.... Thanks.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Lots of work done this weekend. For the first two parts of this thread, see the sticky at the top of this forum, and https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=79322


The tubing bender I rented to bend the 2" stainless intercooler pipe. Got a pretty good deal...$130 for 5 days.


Bending the 90 degree bend in the upper intercooler pipe. This bend was later cut down to around 40 degees.


The air horn flange that replaces the stock plastic piece. This became known as "The Strawberry", for obvious reasons.


Hole in flange so a pipe may be welded in.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Welding a short piece of 2" pipe to the strawberry. This will connect to the upper intercooler pipe.


Upper intercooler pipe installed.


Closeup of upper pipe leading off of intercooler. There is also a nipple on the intercooler that needs to be plugged.


Upper intercooler pipe being test fitted to the strawberry.


Lower intercooler pipe attached to compressor of turbo.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Intercooler pipes passing through holes cut in rad support.


Closeup of above.


Closeup of intercooler pipe attached to turbo.


Another view of the intercooler from above.


Bottom of intercooler with pipe attached.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Extreme closeup of the strawberry and how upper intercooler pipe is attached. Also shows my messy welds. Will need to be ground slightly and painted to look pretty.

Next on the list is the fuel pump (to be done this week), as well as oil and water to the turbo (this week, or this weekend). Then it's just the downpipe and S-AFC. Still not entirely sure how I will do the downpipe. I may just have the car towed to an exhaust shop an have them make it with the flanges I supply. If the pipe bender had come with 2.5" moulds, I could have made the downpipe. But stupid me, I only ordered 2" bends. Oh well.

Oh, and I got those horribly rusted fuel pump screws out. Took a combination of 2 cans of WD-40, a hammer, large screwdriver, and Sears damaged screw removers (Thanks ReTED!).

Mods: Can we sticky this thread, and the 2nd one? Or just combine them all to the one already stickied?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

P.S. If anyone can spot the problem, I'll send them a free NA injector.

Felix Wankel

What are you going to do for a BOV?

VtekEater

Hey man I see a couple of things wrong sort of..
1st its an N/A j/k =)
Ok the AFM isnt connected yet but that cant be it.
Also the BAC valve pipes need to be added or taken
of completely and I think also the water thermo that used to go to the TB is just hanging there and oh don't forget to connect the brake booster vacuum line, I didnt the 1st time and I scared the **** outa myself on the 1st run.
BTW looking good so far. If you need a BOV let me know I've got an HKS SSQ with flange for sale.
See ya

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Felix Wankel: I have an Apex'i BOV in the mail.

VtekEater: Close, but no cigar.