Hi all,

Not a 20B - but 3 rotor's:

www.cityperformancecentre.com --> Customers --> Street Cars --> Allistair's RX-7 (videos at the bottom of the page.

Enjoy...

 

wow.

I want a 20b pport, n/a though....

 

nice. I have 13BPP in my 2 gen race car. but alway dream about 20B PP street driving FD lought

 

Isn't that the "evil7".
I was wondering what was going on with that thing. The website has not had any updates for a long time.
Good to see they got it going. It must be wicked.

 

cool setup

 

Badass!!!

 

Nice, what kind of water pump setup they have on that motor? The radiator hoses going into the block over the water pump. Is that a 20b thing?

 

Three Motecs? Is it for three injector and three ignition channels perhaps?

That DVD quality video is nice and clear, despite the interlacing. Awesome project!

 

Must...........continue..........to.............sa ve............for..............motor

 

It runs an M800 ECU, and CDI (igniton) - the 3 units in the engine bay (you can now by one CDI unit from MoTeC that will do the same job).

Sorry about the interlacing, I don't have any pro. gear.

 

Electric Water Pump.

 

That intake system is B-E-A-utiful. Work of art. It sounds like some bike engines from the back of the car, still sounds oh so nice.

 

Man your speakers must be messed up cause that don't sound like a bike engine

 

Ah, interesting. Could you describe for us how the spark plugs are fired? What I mean is, is there a leading-trailing split? Do the leading plugs each fire 180° after their normal firing timing, like '86+ RX-7s do?

 

When it's coming down from revs, and only at the tail pipe, my speakers are just fine.

I'd love to see what kind of power that thing makes naturally aspirated.

 

Yes - split can be done.

Not sure about how though - and what degrees.

 

I'm not sure how that one is running, but it is generally a bad idea to run waste spark on a 20B because the 3 rotors are at 120deg intervals, not 180deg like a 2-rotor. Most NA race engines do not run a split, but split timing seems popular with the turbocharged drag engines. You would need to ask the owner what split, if any, is used on that particular engine.

 

What do you mean generally? Nobody in thier right mind would try to do that.

Just for everyone else, if you tried to fire a 20B like a two rotor engine, it would be pretty bad for the engine. Rotor 1 would be fine, but rotor 2 would fire too late and rotor 3 would fire too early, and vice versa. I probably shouldn't have mentioned it at all. I only did because he has three Motecs and decided it wouldn't hurt to ask. Oh well, I guess what my little dizzy can do is still unique in the 20B world at the moment, as it is appearantly difficult to mimic its timing in software/aftermarket ECUs. I'll figure it out eventually on the MegaSquirt, but as for right now, I'll use my modded dizzy—no EDIS6 for me.

 

LOL, I am trying to keep an open mind for things that I think are stupid, but others seem to think are just fine. I would say the same thing about a dizzy and a MegaSquirt, but....

 

lol! Yep, if you can solder it together yourself and not spend $1000 on it with or without a college education, it ain't worth the circuit board it's printed on, right?

Anyway, to get a little bit more in depth here, all 20B setups out there, either stock or with aftermarket ECUs, have a single leading spark and then a trailing spark a few degrees later or at the same time. That's normal. What I've done with my dizzy isn't. It allows for a second leading spark 180° later, which is akin to 2nd gen and later 13Bs, only the events are seperated by 120° so each rotor gets sparks at the correct times, and then again 180° later. The actual mod to the dizzy wasn't that difficult, but getting it to work in software is (in the software I'm working with at least). Look up/search or imagine the sparks of an even fire V12 condensed into only three plugs.

Many will say it's unnecessary. That's fine. My entire 20B project has been that way so far.

I could use an EDIS6 module on my engine to spark L and T at the same time and it would run just like every other NA 20B out there with no split. *Yawn* Can you blame me for my disinterest? Besides, I prefer the sound of a 13B with direct fire (180° simultaneous) over the '85 and older (cap and rotor) sound anyway. I very much love the tonal quality (timbre?) of the 20B, especially when it just starts to accelerate as the clutch is being released, and took on this project at least 50% just for the sound of the engine. It must be the way the three exhaust pulses amplify and null each other. The extra torque/HP is a bonus (I guess I'm not power hungry like so many here, of course that could change once it's running). I guess I'll be the first to know if the sound of my 20B, with its abnormal direct fire ignition system, is any better sounding than everyone elses more common setups. I also have some good used Rotary Engineering glasspacks available which sounded wonderful on my 13B.

 

Those look like Motec 2ch CDI boxes.
Motec Makes a single channel, two channel, and 8 Channel CDI's

3- two channel cdi's is enough for split on a 20B

 

I remember everyone being concerned about the intake manifold in the "1000hp" thread. Saying how the middle housing would tend to run rich and the other two would run lean... A picture of this setup with the plenum on it was posted. This seems to be an excellent design.

 

wow, after seeing that "long" video from the 22nd, I am in love... i guess they still have some stuff like the ic piping to fab up and get the thing moving, but wow... i'm jealous. anyone know where i can get some more detailed info on this car? (besides the website with the videos) of course.

 

We will have some more information/videos/photos up on the www.cityperformancecentre.com website soon. The car was driven on the road for the first time last Friday - it is just a little special

 

I'd love to see some in-car footage of it on the road