I have posted some specs and pics in other areas, but figured I would make a official one in the good ol' 20b forum. Alot has changed from last time. Here is a quick rundown to keep it short and sweet.

C series 20b
street ported (and semi p-ports still capped for now )
NRS 2mm ceramic seals
9.7:1 CLR balanced clearanced rotors
race bearings
Mazda comp drysump system
Electromotive Tec3r
Same custom exhaust
Stock intake (only temporary)
Full custom duct work, everything anodized black
Fluidyne radiator
setrab oil coolers
custom front end splitter anodized black
patterson drysump tank
RG coilovers
delrin bushings
bride seat
takata harness
alot I cant remember haha

Made 313rwhp and 221rwtq on our dyna-pack. Pleased with the numbers so far.
More Power, More videos, and More cool stuff coming very soon.

Video--

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XVrZUJZ-Ws

enjoy!

 

I meet Logan, his Dad and Peter last week when I was up to talk about my car. I got to ride in the above car and I am very impressed. The power band range is fantastic. I can't wait for you guys to get the p-ports and ITBs in action. If he gets this around the 350 to 380 range I really don't know why I would need more power.

Great job guys I look forward to working more with you guys!

 

i had a ride in it to and it pulls STRONG cant wait to see it hit 400hp!

 

Purpose built, nice. Must be a very rigid ride.

 

I would very much like 300HP and 200 torque from my 20B. Maybe I can bother you when I crack mine open.

 

I'm surprised actually it rides smoother than a stock R1. Aside from the higher decibel exhaust note, the car has very nice road manners. But I chalk that up to RG suspension doing their homework.

 

What I meant by rigid was that it must have great lateral stability.

When you say Fluidyne Rad it is custom sizing or FD sized? Also can you comment on the oil temps difference? Maybe because you have an aftermarket system you never really run into problems.

As soon as I get $$$ this MUST be done to my car.

What is your reason for stay with the beautiful yet restrictive stock intake>?Just waiting to fab up a suitable IM?

 

Ah I see. Yes its definitely stable The fluidyne radiator was a very large core (5") and barely fit. It was originally made for a nextel cup car. Coolant temps never exceed 190F even when being beaten on, but the oil temps eventually start to rise up to 210F after staying at 7-9k rpms for extended periods. I recently changed the rad. and oil cooler setup, so I will see the results soon once I get it back on a track. I never really intended to use the stock intake for more than a couple months. Even 2 years ago I had built and ran a triple 55mm intake (sold it to build the new one). However once the ITB setup is back in place, the semi p-ports will also finally get a chance to breathe. Hoping for upwards of 400rwhp. Time will tell however.

 

Definitely an inspirational project.... always look forward to seeing your videos and updates...

- Chris

 

i think something has been lost in all of my salivating over your motor setup is just how beautiful your car is. i can't wait for you to get the intake sorted as well, dyno numbers be damned ...

 

question:

your air filter ... is that some sort of physical trauma or is that from your engine wanting more than the filter can supply?

 

Thats fully sick bro

 

Its from me crushing it a little making the filter fit. As you know its temporary for right now until the the itbs are done.

 

Logan,

Whats involved in making a tec3r unit for a 13b work with a 20b, does it use a different trigger wheel, can I use the REW front cover with the CAS?

 

The fd front cover will bolt right up to the 20b, so there isn't anything you have to change. As long as you have the Electromotive fd trigger wheel kit.

 

What about the additional secondary and primary injectors..Sorry for the questions. Would I have to get a harness through a dealer and rewire it for a 20b?

 

The tec3r harness already has the channels for you to wire up your third secondary and primary injector. Just need to trace down the wiring and find the correct color and extend it if its been cut. You will have to run Injector 3 Yellow w/Green strip for your third primary. Injector 4,5,6 (pin 15,22,23 white connector) for your secondary

 

Great looking fins!!

 

except for the ugly *** splitter, i think that car is awesome! Ive often wondered what mine would feel like NA

 

what r u planing for the intake set up detail wise i mean

 

It will be a throttle body setup and we will make the runners and such. The p-ports will also have their own throttle bodies staged to open later in the rpm. Temporarily for research purposes I will run p-ports with the stock intake, and see what power it makes. Then go for the full intake setup

 

I would be curious as to a cost tally on all of this.

 

I am too, haha.

 

Very Nice. Did you build the engine bracing?

 

Yeah things like that took a while to build, however the end result was one very well behaved FD.