Ok so i am planning (read as dreaming) my build up and i want to go 3 rotor and i also want to go n/a. So far i have figured out that i am gonna put high compression rotors in. Two of these will come from my current 91 n/a and i will have to source a third. Engine will have a complete teardown and rebuild before going in my car. Also want to peripherial port it for maximum power. There is a lot more but let me know what you 3 rotor guys have to say about building the ultimate n/a. Note this is gonna be for racing. I am a noob to the 3 rotor and to building rotaries period but if you dont dream big you wont ever go big.

Thanks
Ryan

 

My .02 ......... it's not worth it without the turbo(s). You'll spend the same amount to get the engine. Just rebuild the stock twins and motor and run on that. It'll give you more power than the NA.

 

With a peripherial port 3rotor and s5 na rotors and 13b housing you should get close to 500hp. Thats what we are build for our race car.

 

My suggestions:

RB super lightweight rotors
RB aluminum end/side plates
Custom e-shaft ala guru 2 piece for the 13B with bearing in the middle for high rpm's
Dry sump
True triple exhaust
Individual throttle bodies (or webbers)
Good plugs, wires, coils and a CDI
Light flywheel with 5.5 inch twin plate clutch

 

Why?
That just necessitates custom countweights or rebalancing.


What does this have to do with power?

The 20B already has a bearing in the middle.


-Ted

 

Speaking of which. 3 rotor + PP + Single Turbo = $$

driving that car on the street: pricless!

http://www.cityperformancecentre.com...tairs_rx-7.htm

 

Before you guys get all excited about show car and street car mods, I would like to point out that this engine is going to be race-only, and money is obviously not a big issue.

My suggestion: Contact Mandeville Auto Tech and ask for some pointers while you talk about your new Motec EMS.
(864) 582-0038

The guys at Team Spencer can also help:
http://www.teamspencer.com/

 

how about weight. i was looking at some sites and saw that a stock 20b with stock turbos and what not weighed in at 350kg and that the n/a racing 20b or 13g that mazda sells weighs in at 143 kg. what i am asking is if these numbers are approximately right. I am building this for road racing and therefore weight and weight distribution is extremely important to me.

 

My stock 20B was really heavy. It's a lot lighter now. It's only a bit heavier than my REPU's 13B. The engine conversion project the 20B went into is probably going to break even weight-wise over the front tires with a relocated battery compared to when the 13B was in it along with a battery in the stock location.