stickmantijuana

iTrader: (1)

so I basically burnt through mickey Thompson streets while going sideways on freeways in a record time. They sucked. I'm looking for tires that would be suitable for daily drive and putting down at least 700rwhp on the straightaways (on track of course) from say 60mph to 150mph without worrying out loosing traction. I hear good reviews about pilot sport cup 2 and R888. My rear wheels are 19x9.5, so I can only run upto 285 width. I can't run R compound because roads here are really sandy throughout the year, and R compound tires get coated with sand after a few miles. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks!

JZW

iTrader: (5)

I haven't tried these, but I heard Hankook RS3's and Yokohama Advans are good. Look them up, I am debating between R888 or Hankooks. Which Mickeys were you running?

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

I'm having no issues at all with Maxxis RC-1 tiny little 255/17's....they spin over for a second, then once they are warm they stick like glue @ 600rwhp. I can hit it in 2nd w/ 12-14psi and it goes right away no issues! Compound is reportedly nearly the same as the NT01 by Nitto. Unfortunately as you said, these are R-compound and you can't use them :/ but you mentioned the R888 which is an R

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I also had great luck with the little 255/40-17 Maxxis RC-1. I am exited to hear others had similar results.

Very good forward traction for a slicked DOT-R! My 420rwhp/420rwtq FC had full traction in both 4th and 5th on those. Despite being slicks, they have great road manners too. Quiet, predictable, good in cool weather.

RS3s was limited to 5th gear roll on or modulating throttle to avoid spinning.

MT ET streets had full traction in every gear but 1st, but with 50 sidewall they are wobbly tires.


I can't run R compound because roads here are really sandy throughout the year, and R compound tires get coated with sand after a few miles.

Not sure what you mean by this since both those tires are DOT-Rs as were your MTs, but perhaps you mean you can't run a slick tire design because you need tread blocks to push down through the sand on the surface.


I think a big problem you are having is wheel/tire sizing.

19s are just going to suck for traction because they have no sidewall so they are easy to shock into spinning.

I would spend some $ on wheels instead of going through tires like crazy and still having to deal with poor traction.

On my FD I have 18x11 +45 with 295 front/rear on rolled fenders.

The 295/30-18 R888 I have on there now is a good price at $240ea and they are very streetable R comps.

Unfortunately, I can't say how good the R888 are for forward traction as I haven't had then on anything with power yet.

I would try the 295/30-18 R888 and practice using the throttle as more than an on/off switch and/or rework the turbo/porting so power acts like more than an on/off switch (been there too).

Also, you would have more traction accelerating with more sidewall so 17x10 with 275/40-17 in the rear will probably have better traction accelerating for you.

RZMotorsports

these are the ones that i run on my car. I dont have a problem with putting power down. I run Mickey Thompson Street tires, they are amazing they just grab and go without even doing a burn out. I only have used them on the street.

this are the ones i run.

Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels


Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels

stickmantijuana

iTrader: (1)

thanks for all your feedbacks. I had MT street comp judging by the thread pattern. I'll try the MT street radial. I gotta guy new wheels though.. the only width they have on 19" is 305... I guess I will have to downsize to 18".

RZMotorsports

those tires are sick! im trying to get a widebody kit for my car so i can run the 305 or 315.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

In general the wider the tire the worse the tire will grip if you keep a large diameter wheel.

you can go wide but you really need to drop the diameter of the wheel and then drop the tire pressure.


The only good way of gaining traction is dropping the wheel diameter and then the inflation in the tire to grow the longitudinal contact patch length for grip under acceleration.

18/19 diameter wheels are the worst to run for straight accel. the largest I would go is 17, 15-16 is even better.

Troclo

Hey Guys.

Ive run several sets of R888 and my only complaint is the noise! Swapped to Bridgestone Adrenalin RE002, same grip but no noise. Im very happy with them!
Read about them on an EVO forum where several people spoke fondly of them.

I don't know how long they will last but I will keep you updated.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

wow, yes!

This explanation is great. So many people constantly say, "you need wider rubber" and its not always the case!

Its downright amazing that these 255's can hold the power on the street. It must fall exactly with your reasoning, its a 40 sidewall on a 17" rim!

stickmantijuana

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to buy 17" wheels for the rear on craigslist just to try this theory out. I already found a pair for less than $100, so it's no brainer. I would love to not do widebody.

although I don't quite understand the explanation of "the wider the tire the worse the tire will grip if you keep a large diameter wheel".

stickmantijuana

iTrader: (1)

just out of curiosity, how's the cornering on those 40 sidewalls? does it feel wobbly at all?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

stickmantijuana just out of curiosity, how's the cornering on those 40 sidewalls? does it feel wobbly at all?

Not bad at all. I had them on a 9.5" wide wheel and I preferred the 255/40-17 RC-1 sidewall feel over the 255/40-17 NT01 softer side wall.

RC-1 suck pretty hard on a sandy/gravely surfaces though since they are a slick.

stickmantijuana

iTrader: (1)

could you guys clear up one thing?

is the sidewall the critical factor here? your sidewall on that 17" RC-1 tire is 255 x 0.40 = 102mm.

If I were to buy some cheap enkei 18x10" set, i can fit 285/40/18 which would put the sidewall at 114mm. would this work better even with 18" wheel? or is diameter being too big the inherent problem?

thank you.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

You can run a taller tire in the rear of the FD than the front as the wheel does not have to steer.

Still, there is a limit and it really comes into play when you add width.

A tall 285/40-18 will most likely rub the unibody in the front area of the rear wheel housing with any offset that fits it under stock(ish) rolled fenders. Some people bash that area in to run a wider tire instead of adding a flared rear fender- not my thing.

But as far as more grip when comparing an otherwise identical tire- the larger diameter tire of the same width with the same sidewall height has more traction.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Thats going to look funny with thick sidewall on an 18"!

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Exact setup here! You're the one who recommended this brand now that I recall Best tire EVER. It totally BLOWS everyones minds


Over at addicted performance, they couldn't believe these tires were holding 700+ on the dyno. Eventually tapped out around 730 because there wasn't enough weight on the rear. Tires gripped so hard, that the dyno heated them up and melted to the rollers. They had to scrape / force the tires off of the roller I run around 25+ psi, and never think twice about these things. Only problem is getting traction in 1st on the street

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

When you run a wider tire the contact patch becomes more landscape than portrait. the contact patch is equal on both tires. Any tire you run the contact patch is equal given the same tire and pressure. On smaller diameter larger sidewall tires you can lower the PSI more to elongate the contact patch.

If you go with a very low pro sidewall and very wide the contact patch is very wide and super narrow, you are trading grip for handling at expense of acceleration and braking. The low profile tire will not allow you to run super low PSI leaving you stuck with a skinny landscape patch which is horrible for acceleration grip.

Drop the diameter of the wheel to a 16, run a nice soft sticky wide tire and lower the psi, as long as you get it up to temp you will have the ultimate grip for straight line traction.

running softer springs in the rear also helps with loading the tires.


look at how low psi the rear tire is at.

JZW

iTrader: (5)

how is the street driving with those tires? Are they loud tires like the R888's? Any downside for using these on the streets?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

That is the amazing thing with the Maxxis RC-1.

Even though it is a full slick at least in this 255/40-17 size (only one I have tried) it has wonderful road manners and is way more quiet than the R888 or the TD or NT01. It was not what I was expecting based on my experiences driving other slick tires.

Because it is a slick it sucks for hydroplaning and on gravel, sand and wet leaves- that is the huge tradeoff in streetability.

If you aren't used to driving slicks on the road there are suddenly all these other variables you aren't used to thinking of.

You might completely wreck your car in a ditch and be scratching your head as to why and then look where the tires suddenly lost grip and see some gravel on the edge of the road that you got into.

You have to see that gravel before you drive into it with slicks.

JZW

iTrader: (5)

I see, well I'm not sure if I can get them now because the streets suck in my area and there is gravel everywhere...

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Guys, consider the new Bridgestone RE-71R, classed by the Tire Rack as Extreme Performance Summer:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....Potenza+RE-71R

I've got some time on these suckers on my latest set of wheels and man oh man do they STICK. Stopping in particular is very impressive. Best I've tried yet, period. This includes AD08, ZII, RA1, PSS, etc etc.

They're commensurate with the rest of the class in the rain, which is 'not bad, don't drive like an ******* and you'll be ok.' They do pick up and fling road debris due to their stickiness. They're also VERY light, like, Hoosier light. Added bonus

Grassroots Motorsports also has some nice data in the August 2015 issue where the RE-71R beat out all comers.

stickmantijuana

iTrader: (1)

thanks so much. this was an outstanding explanation. I didn't think of it that way, and this does make sense. I always thought going wider would equate to better traction, both straight and cornering. I never thought about straightline vs cornering traction separately. I guess in my case of having low sidewall/high psi, larger diameter wheel, it probably decreased straightline traction!

JZW

iTrader: (5)

bumping this back up for more recommendations