I decided to go the 20b route. I already have the motor lined up for $1800, and I know it should be rebuilt from what I am seeing on here. The subframe and spindle setup is basically all set. Im still deciding on ecu. What I am wondering is as far as the wiring goes how difficult was it for all of you to wire your 20b's into the car, and how hard is it to retain the factory gauges? If I stuck with the stock twins would there be a massive amount of vacum lines as in the fd stock twin setup? I have searched and have some info but if there is anyone that can help me out it would be appreciated. I have all the tools, engine hoist, auto lift, transmission jacks, compressors, and im a whiz at wiring and mechanical jobs, so let me know.

 

also I mean ive searched back to the begining and I can see that the install can be done a bunch of different ways but how come no one has done a nice write up on it? I will if I get the help needed

 

nobody has a write up because theres a bunch of different ways. its not like a 2 rotor fd where everybody does the same thing.

its not too hard to wire in the 20b, you're bascially building a new engine harness for whatever ecu you choose to get. all the guages will work if you remember to hook em up.

mike

 

The E11 seems like a good ECU to get. j9fd3s is using my 20B's harness on his FC.

 

ok, thats an answer to some of the questions. As I said i still havent decided on an ecu. But I still have the questions about intigrating the gauge harness into a new motor and ecu, is there a wiring schematic with the ecu's that allow me to know where to hook what up or do I have to figure it out on my own

 

A rebuild may not be neccessary. Read this thread about how I recently cleaned all the carbon build up out of my 20b and regained a **** load of lost compression. Trust me this works. I recently did this on my 3rd gen (stock 13b) with no ill effects. And that car has 72k miles on it. I did when I pulled the engine to replace the clutch. This is a cheaper way for you to get underway without spending a **** load extra money right off the bat. The info is near the bottom of that thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...5&pagenumber=1

 

thanks ill look into it

 

Also if you try this method, make sure you first inspect the rotor housings, and side plates for wear groves by looking and feeling inside the exhaust port. That by it self can give you an indication of wear because if their are any wear grooves, then you may need the rebuild. Mine was smooth like it should have been.

 

MY install went fairly smooth. I used mostly bolt in parts. The only fabbing i did was new lower radiator mounts, swaybar spacers, mounted and the A/C condensor to the radiator. I did by a secondhand downpipe and turbo y-pipe setup to make the install quicker, but both items can be baught from Alamo rotary. I did do a few extras like upgrading oil coolers, dual intank fuel pumps, all Earls AN lines & fittings. I wish i would have taken more pictures of stuff during the install, but I get when i get going i don't stop until I either finish or eyes cant stay open.

If you have any specific questions, just ask.

 

look in the wiring diagram. the tach runs from the ecu, and the coolant temp wire runs in the engine harness so everything else will work. the coolant temp you just have to remember to run that wire. and the tach is just a wire, but getting it to read correctly is the chore. 20b is a v6 and the 13b is 4 cyl

mike