Rebuilding a 20b
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, B.C.
i was thinking about all the work involved with the 20b conversion and it got me wondering, how would you rebuild the motor when a apex seal decides to blow? would you just buy 2 13b rebuild kits and use wat you need or would you have to special order a rebuild kit from somewhere???
Trending Topics
My email address is john@swift-performance.com, I'm SUPER interested, and need one very soon
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 279
Likes: 1
From: Trinidad, West Indies
Hi there, I'd also like to see a pic of it as well. Myaddress is spanner@tstt.net.tt
A friend of mine sent me one that Scalliwag made. It worked okay. As I was tightening it I had to tap on the side of it with a hammer slightly to make it come off. Other than that no problems.
-Destin
-Destin
That was a pretty tricky project. I didn't have a 20b eshaft to work with so I had to work off of pictures that left me with more questions than answers.
I was really glad just to hear that it worked at all
Once I grasped the concept of how it was supposed to work and gathering off the wall sized materials, mainly the DOM tube, I was off to the races.
Finding a long enough bolt for the counterweight hole in that oddball thread was not working either.
I spent more time scratching my head and trying to source materials than I did making it. I ended up using a banjo bolt with a tension bolt welded to it after calling all the bolt and fastener supplies and specialty houses in Dallas/Fort Worth trying to locate something more aesthetically appealling
I would have loved to had a 20b available to work with and got a better feel for how it would have actually "felt".
The round 1" tall spacer on the all-thread in the pic was the result of not knowing exactly where the snout of the crank would stop.
So it just sort of "floats" and it's sole purpose it to keep the tool from cocking to one side once the torque starts up. That was not ideal but it allowed the tool to be as stable as possible and conform to that "mystery" measurement.
So try not to laugh too hard at me guys
I was really glad just to hear that it worked at all
Once I grasped the concept of how it was supposed to work and gathering off the wall sized materials, mainly the DOM tube, I was off to the races.
Finding a long enough bolt for the counterweight hole in that oddball thread was not working either.
I spent more time scratching my head and trying to source materials than I did making it. I ended up using a banjo bolt with a tension bolt welded to it after calling all the bolt and fastener supplies and specialty houses in Dallas/Fort Worth trying to locate something more aesthetically appealling
I would have loved to had a 20b available to work with and got a better feel for how it would have actually "felt".
The round 1" tall spacer on the all-thread in the pic was the result of not knowing exactly where the snout of the crank would stop.
So it just sort of "floats" and it's sole purpose it to keep the tool from cocking to one side once the torque starts up. That was not ideal but it allowed the tool to be as stable as possible and conform to that "mystery" measurement.
So try not to laugh too hard at me guys

Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




