Awww crap...well thanks for the suggestion but....I kinda made a purchase already...read the post above yours :/

Chris

 

i wonder how long that flange/actuator is going to last with all the heat and back pressure that a rotary makes.. Why didnt you go with the 1.10 a/r in the first place? Either or i'm sure you are going to like it and the bw475 is a very good turbo.

 

Well, they updated the actuator to that one from the original for that same reason. It looks like a high heat industrial actuator similar to some I have seen at work that are used for actuating high heat vapor valves pneumatically. they operate at extreme temps reliably for that so I wouldn't see this as being an issue...

I'm thinking if it last for a full year of running, it will be worth it even if you have to spend the extra 25 bucks once a year to get a new one. IDK, I like trying new things...that is why I built the renesis first and look where it got me (500whp+).

I am excited to get the S475...if the valve gives me any issues I can always get the rear housing from Mike Turbo to fit the large wheel like you did and just eat the money...I'm just that guy that has to be weird and sometimes it costs me...lol

Chris

 

nah.. i understand.. i'm the same way, i love to try new things.

Good luck and how far are you from completing the car/build ?

 

i had a pt88 on my fd with a half bridge 3rotor and the turbo is laggy n the efficiency of the turbo is above 25psi i made 638whp at 20psi. then i switch to a gt42r and it spooled way quicker and was more fun on the streets. hope this helps

 

Hehe..

Well at this point I have pulled my old setup from the car so there is a big, beautiful nothing under the hood...kinda like a clean pallet . I have the engine mounts I will use and the fuel system was already prepared to handle a 20B from before because I though I might do this. The exhaust is all 4" already. I have to cut the front cross/sub-frame member to fabricate a new one that will move the steering rack 2-3" forward and about 2-3"down to clear the 20B. For the moment I am just accumulating parts one by one. I suspect it will be a year before it is on the road....but that is ok. Usually I do this kind of stuff faster but I am getting married this year and that makes everything go slower...hehe. I have "been around the block" fabrication and tuning wise so I know getting it in there and getting it to work will not be an issue...its just a matter of time and money at this point.

Chris

 

Ok, so I am planning my exhaust manifold. I want to do medium length runners as close as possible to equal length into a 3-1 collector right before a bend into the T6 Divided flange (quick spool valve).

What runner size do you guys recommend for each rotor? The motor will be street ported. Also, after the collector, should I do a 3" pipe to the flange or a 3.5" one?

I am planning a manifold similar to the TwinsTurbo one on their 13b but instead of going over the top of the turbo which makes it extremely long, I plan to come from the bottom like this guy:

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/wastegate-runner-length-875775/

Thanks in advance.

Chris

 

Hey

Does anyone have a compressor map for the GT4502r?

Thanks in advance!