well new to me anyway..im completely almost learning everything as i go along mainly cause ive for one never taken a rotary apart so im really inexperienced and i want as much help as i could get ..so i decided to ask people who have been around these cars for years..fortunately (and unfortunately) for the most part im not doing most of the work but i am learning as i go from my step brother who unlike me has had a lot more experience on rotaries in general..im trying to make well a car that i want..so from what ive found so far it is very difficult to get parts for this monster..i have studied a lot to do with rotaries such as common issues, fixes how to preserve the motor and various other things so whats got me stuck really is parts.. i of course understand that we have to fab a lot of the lines and such so thats not much of an issue its just all coming down to what i can get or what i need but dont know what to get or will fit properly without to many issues..ill be having to make "some" space... of course for certain items but w/e the simple fact of owning a rotary is worth the trouble..

so for the most part getting the stock ecu.."ordering a haltech e11.v2" unless someone has a better sub but i kinda wanted both so the systems stable.

Also a big issue is aquiring a wireharness we may have to fab one as a last resort but i was hoping there was an "easier" way like a company that might have a sub for one

as for radiator placement im getting rid of the stock one of course but i have no idea what choice would be good to fit in and still keep plenty room for the front mount intercooler system..

the oil cooler houseing was damaged during shipping x_X so ill have to replace it but i cant find the stock part like many others and cant seem to find any thread or place that knows of a sutable replacement if any...

so far that is all i can think of to say for the moment hopefully im not gonna have to many issues with this swap except the money ones :P and all goes well with the plan i have set up

 

If you do a search you will find most of the answers to your questions. Do and advanced search and search titles only. You will find it all that way.

 

No matter what ecu you choose, you're going to have to build your own harness or pay someone to. Luckily, the flying lead kits that are available make it a pretty easy task. It can be daunting if you've never done it, but it really is one of the easier things to do. Just be sure to take your time to route everything before you start cutting, wrapping, and soldering.

I don't know what you are referring to with the term "oil cooler housing".

With regards to your radiator and IC, you're really on your own. That is a custom job, each and every one of these cars. You'll just have to bust out the measuring tape, and start planning and purchasing. There are a host of companies that makes radiators and intercoolers to order, and that would be the best option (though most expensive) because it would allow you to truly optimize your system. However, you can make myriad of the shelf products work pretty easily if you're creative.

Good luck.

 

It is very difficult to get the stock Cosmo ECU working well, and even then it is pretty lame. You are better off just forgetting about the stock Cosmo ECU. The E11 will work just fine.

Based on that statement, this project is well above the level of your brother-in-law because he obviously has never worked with a standalone EMS before if that is how he explained it to you. While anybody with good automotive stereo installation skills should be able to install the E11, you will need a professional to tune it. I don't recommend even trying to start the engine on your own.

Welcome to the wonderful world of custom modifications. You can always sell the engine and go back to the easy bolt-on mods if you think this is going to be too much trouble.

I am not aware of anybody having trouble using a stock FC RX-7 oil cooler.

 

Well its not my brother thats having this issue its me im trying not to cause him more work than i need to. but he already told me he would probably have to fab one ... or i could probably get one from rotorsports racing...either way it will be put together...ive also found a greddy ic that might fit but im still figuring out what type of radiator i want...so really i guess as it comes together i could post up pictures to see what you think...also i did end up looking for another hour or two and found a good bit of information i was looking for..thx for the help and scepticism is always nice seeing as im kinda also making myself look slightly ignorant of what im getting into due to my lack of knowledge :P

 

I'll up date this when I get home considering its been a while and I'm a lot further along and I've learned a lot more by actually doing the work myself and with help from sLevin fd

 

So for starters I'm just about finished collecting pieces of the puzzle here....mostly because I used an n/a chassis I have to replace most of the drivechain if not all of it. I was thinking about ordering the aluminum half shafts and drive shafts from banzai but I'm fairly certain unless the trans sits specifically in the right spot I may need to get the drive shaft fabbed. I have a carbonetics 2 way that I will also be using. The plan was to take the 20b and use ITO templates to aggressive street port get some ra super seals and the rest of the rebuild. Already have a TII tranny with less than 3k miles on it rebuilt that I will be running the (stock) motor on for the break in. I'm also doing this till I get the money for the ecu and new turbos. The turbos are going to be running non seq. So stock ecu coil packs and harness are only used as place holders going to be updated in the future. The fuel pump ill be using is the Denso supra TT pump should powerful enough to run. The ic ill be using is a greddy 3 row more and the rad is the koyo n-flow. I'll have to decide on the oil coolers want to get 2 with fans large enough to keep the oil cool pressure up and run in parallel. The electric fan is also another issue wanna check my room and everything first before selecting any recommendations on airflow? There is more to come as soon as I start install on everything and rebuild ill get pictures but at the moment I'm doing this from my phone so bare with me

 

First off, welcome to the 20B section, the land of custom fabrication, adaptation of stock parts and downright ingenious thinking.

Since you're kinda new to the big mods, chances are my build thread "The 12 Days of Rotormas" would get you in the right direction from a ground-up perspective. Also check out Chris W's GTUS 20B build thread too, for another conversion being performed by Defined Autoworks. Between the two, you'll be much better equipped to handle the project's challenges

Here's a quick rundown of answers that work
ECU: Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 (replaces the E11v2) base maps are in the haltech section. Another option is using a Megasquirt, though it's a much more DIY package.

Harness: Flying Lead harness is a no-brainer unless you want to build your own. The connectors are available from Tyco Electronics and Jegs has wire in every color you'd need for it. Don't forget fuses and relays too (already done on flying lead). The rest is up to your discretion and preference.

Ignition Coils: Most use GM LS1 or LS2 coils. Stock FC ones COULD be used, but would be a pain to do. My car uses the LS2 Truck Coils (AC Delco Part# D585), which are seemingly more powerful than the car ones.

Oil Cooler: The stock FC one is just fine for a 20B. Would highly recommend converting to AN lines since the rear cooler line is a little short to fit nicely on the 20b's port (directly under oil filter) compared to the FC's port (bottom of rear iron). Front line will fit with no mods.

Radiator: Probably a custom job, depending on how you want things to fit together. In the stock location, a stock radiator will touch the front turbo oil return pipe. Get a 2-speed Taurus fan to keep things cool.

Turbos: Running them sequential would be better, and not too hard to do either. There's quite a few schematics to make it doable with a Haltech. Mine's gonna be set up sequential with a Non-sequential override switch in case of a relay or solenoid failure.

Battery & Alternator: Run some beefy cable to move the battery to the hatch. Did 3-gauge and a 100 amp fuse for mine. Also, with a Taurus fan, get the Taurus's alternator too. Before I started the swap, I was running a FD alt and Taurus fan and it was getting pushed a bit too hard for my liking. The extra 30 amps of overhead is well worth the $20 junkyard pricetag.

Fuel: JZA80 Supra TT pump should do fine. My car has a FD fuel pump and it should BARELY cover a stock 20B-REW. When I get it running and check AFR's on the dyno, it'll see an upgrade if needed.

Anyway, check out my build thread, comment on it and you'll have a much better idea of what you're in for. And remember what Felix Wankel said: Imagination Costs Nothing!!!

 

You can find my ghetto build thread on RCC forum if you need inspiration for cheap 20B FC...

 

Still had a lot more to add to the previous post but I'm on my phone Ty for the support ill defiantly keep reading through your thread tend to get bored and search for.knowledge anyway I already have a large idea for what I want just collected maybe 9-10k in aftermarket parts so far and nothing in the car until I can eliminate any issues I've read about so when I start her she will be ready