Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Totally stumped on why the fuel is getting so hot Never had this issue at full voltage, 10ga bulkhead wires on the last motor, same pump, factory lines.

But seriously, so many people use Walbro 400, there's got to be something simple here going on. Speed control might be the answer but going to try some things first.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Sure, they have been converted to -10AN male adapters. I cut the hard lines in front of the motor and had -10AN fittings welded on. Purpose was so that we could reroute the hoses around the front cover lol. Stubborn attempt to keep the factory coolers

You would need a 10an adapter/banjo bolt for your oil pedestal and a line to run down and connect to the hardline. You'd also need a 10an line and fitting on your front cover to connect to the other side.

Send me a pm

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

I know you guys most likely dislike honda's, but I'm proud of my buddy's car and some of you may like to see this (guy who did alot of work on this FD). This thing took alot of work, cramming way to much junk under that hood. Placed 1'st in world of wheels birmingham this weekend.

With E85 this car runs ICE COLD, and runs absolutely mental. I actually dislike riding in a convertable with 800hp

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Another little update we've been working on:

Been itching for another grocery getter after selling the FB. So we slammed this 'yota v8 in this crap box 240. Rust bucket heaven. All done for under 2.5k

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

what an exceptional snow mobile you have there sounds badass

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Dual 25 rows installed

Now onto the 6an return/fuel cooler

bewtew

iTrader: (7)

+1

I had temps issue with my car as well and it was due to the front mount intercooler setup. car will run hot if i turned on the a/c or under heavy load.

V-mount is the best and only way to go specially if you live in a hot place or plan on tracking or racing the car.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Bewtew, your car has truly been inspirational. I can't tell you how many times I've watched the same videos over and over and over and over!!!!!



This week, before tearing the car down, I removed the bumper, raised the intercooler on the brackets very slightly and cut out the small opening under the intercooler wider and taller, in the front bumper.

I then unsealed the bottom of the intercooler/rad but kept the sides and top sealed and replaced the undertray. Temps have now dropped from an average of around 200-210F with fans on down to 185-190F with fans on/off ambient temps 50-65F. I think this may be moving in the right direction ! This allows a fresh channel by which the fans can pull air under the intercooler.

I have a feeling most guys with the FMIC are blocking the radiator and filling the bumper entirely, like the car pictured.

Talking with Banzai, he has the same FMIC and Radiator as this 20b, but his temps never exceed 185F even beating it on the dyno. Looking at his pictures, he has a nice gap under the intercooler to allow air inwards to the radiator.





Hopefully with the combination of oil cooler capacity, better airflow under the intercooler, and a 160F thermostat, summer weather won't bring temps too much higher, (fingers crossed)

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

That was when it first came out of the paint shop with the new front nose. After that pic I lowered the IC and installed a CF under tray.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

You need ducting for the air before and after the radiator and intercooler. I had a FMIC and ducting/dual ducted oil coolers lowered my temps down. I still wasn't happy with the air temps I was getting with a FMIC due to it not being ducted. I went to a V-mount and I am making my own custom ducts right now and they need to be designed in a way to create a high pressure zone in front of the heat exchanger and a low pressure zone in front of the duct. This will literally suck air into the ducting. Its better to duct behind the heat exchanger to evacuate the air out as well (cone exit design). OEM do this on our rx7 and supra's etc. When upgrading to aftermarket units they typically don't perform as well due to them being unducted. ducting, and the proper design is the key to running a lot more WHP safely (and making more power overall). I also put my intake filter/piping into the bumper to grab much colder air with a HUGE air filter. this reduces the pressure drop across the air filter lowering the pressure ratio on the turbo, and also cleaning the air better (not sucking as hard through the filter). Making the car run cooler and using the heat exchanger betters with lower air temps can make HUGE differences for reliability and power. I can't remember the exact amount but every 10C cooler in air intake temps is something like 3.5% WHP gain. if I can cut 20C in air temps that would be a approx 30WHP gain at 400WHP just off cooler air. I own a 2 rotor at high altitudes. We all have cooling issues since we don't have much air to cool with up here, especially with long moutain pulls at WOT.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Well, shoot Guess we'll see what happens with oil coolers

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Good points, thanks for sharing. There's just so little room in this engine bay/bumper for any sort of ducting, but It would be nice to have a duct behind the radiator bringing air upwards through the air vents fo the hood creating a vaccuum

bewtew

iTrader: (7)

sucks that there is no room for anything after dropping the 20b in the bay. I wonder how much room u guys have between the rad and intercooler..

how much power is that s2k making? supercharged and turbocharged, correct?

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

I actually cut the lip out from under the frame support and moved the radiator halfway underneith so that we could have just enough space for the turbo lol I can't even imagine the PITA of placing a 4 rotor in this bay.

The s2k still needs a final tune. It made 500RWHP @ 5500rpm on the supercharger, had to let out with fuel issues, hadn't even hit the turbo yet. That was before he switched to E85. Turbo is 78mm compressor in a small frame housing, now that the fuel issues are sorted the turbo comes on line around 6k rpm. I'm guessing somewhere around 600-650+hp at 20psi or more, its impossible to keep it WOT. We'll see what it makes on the dyno here shortly

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Completed the oil cooler installation last night

I wish I had pics with the bumper off, but it was too damn cold for pictures 15f.

Anyhow, I'd like to share that Banzai Racing's bracket kit worked great. The oil coolers are very sturdy and bolted right up. It only required drilling two 1/4" holes above the cooler for mounting the outerside brackets, and a little griding with an angle grinder along the inside of the bumper and bottom outer corner of the coolers. This may not be an issue with 19-rows, but these 25-rows MAX OUT the 99 spec bumper.

Priming the system sucked. Cranked on it with 6qts of oil in the sytem for 5x, 30 sec intervals, no pressure on the gauge. Even poured oil down the oil filter pedestal holes and tried to fill the cooler. Eventually pissed me off enough to fire it up at no pressure, but within seconds pressure popped up above 70psi+

Installed the mishimoto 160F thermostat, this thermostat has visibily larger bore, looks like it will flow a lot more coolant at temp.


Does anyone know if the factory RX-7 FD3S fuel pump resistor, used in the 9v/14v switching system, can be used in-line to a Walbro 400LPH? I'm thinking of using this resistor to drop the voltage, and the adaptronic to switch another relay back up to 14v

Tonight is going to be the return line and fuel cooler, this weekend hopefully have some feedback on temperature and fuel pump issue.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Oil Coolers and Fuel Cooler installed, quick video. Also removed the catback, and installed a downturn on the midpipe, sounds freakin sweet now. Need to make a 3-4" pipe straight out the back off this magnaflow eventually.




Everything seems to be working great. Mounted the fuel cooler in the trunk and looped the return line through the cooler before passing into the fuel hat.

Oil pressure is definitely a few good PSI higher in all conditions on the stock gauge.

Water temps stay around 165F while cruising (mishimotor 160f thermostat) and climb to around 180F at idle. It is however around 30F outside, we'll have to see what it does in the spring temps soon.

Freakin' AN fittings **** me off. For no apparent reason, one of the Vibrant -10an on the oil cooler lines is leaking, time to cut it off and install another.

Rub20B

Sounding nice! would be scared it would et the plugs..

One small thing that popped my mind. shouldnt the fuel couler be outside the car in the airflow?

t-von

iTrader: (8)

That's why I went with Parker push-loc fittings. I have one off my oil thermostat that has a very flim like leak that I need to fix.

Rotate86

Most mount the fuel cooler underbody.thats where mines mounted.hangs no lower then chassis rails.copied same setup as most common rail diesels.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Thanks! Not sure what you're referring to about the plugs?

Yes ideally outside the car would be best, however, the rear diffuser blocks out alot of space, and mounting inside the frame rails would put the cooler too close to the ground.

Its likely less effective but its alot less likely to get ripped off the car in a wreck etc lol

At this pt if it continues to overheat, ill just drop the voltage. Drove it for an hr the other night and the coolers was cold to the touch.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Omg dude, dont even get me started on the push-locks. Had a whole set of Fragola push-lite w there performance hose. Heat gun, vice, grips, soap, hot water, beast strength.....literally not a single thing in the world would push the hose over the barbs!

Maybe parker is better !

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I've been using the Aeroquip version of the push locks on a couple of -4 hoses, and on the -10 for the turbo drain. Pushing the hose into the fitting is pretty easy, just a drop or two of oil on the fitting's barb, and push the hose in. Don't have a lot of miles on them, but so far, they are holding up fine!

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

I'm going to check out this version and the parkers! Sounds promising. Stay away from Fragola

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Stay away from fragola? Why? My entire system is fragola.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Well not all Fragola, just the push lite series. Unless you have the secret to pushing the hoses on :p