I am still pondering what way to go with the set-up on my 20B.. I have to factor cost of course but also I am factoring packaging and efficiency.
My current 'plan' is to mount 2 small intercoolers where the FD oil coolers are normally located. I will then have a clear air path to both the Rad which will be mounted at a steep angle in the front near OEM mount points but steeper angle. I will then probably mount the oil cooler in the upper part of the front bumper or in a shallow V adjacent to the water rad.
A few questions have been posed as to whether my intercooler set-up is going to work well or not? It is not larger than having one big front mount really. Extra pipework to connect up for sure and one fairly long length just over a metre to connect from side to side?
So I have been looking at other options. One mentioned was a liquid charge cooler. I am not too familiar with these and not too sure if it will really gain me anything? I gather with these you then have to package another radiator, header tank and pump on top of the charge cooler. Do they cool significantly better than air coolers? I.e can they be made significantly smaller than traditional coolers? How do you go about sizing one?

Interested to hear all your thoughts!

Lee

 

an air to water setup" is basically the reverse of a radiator! a boxed in intercooler really!!! you use a container of ice water with an electric pump to pump the ice water in the boxed in section of the air to water and then recirculate it back to the container!! this offer max cold air for the inductions system and you dont need a huge cooler. however the ice eventually melts and isnt good on extensive driving until you add more ice!

 

A front mount air to air system is easier as can be very efficient if ducted properly. Insufficient air flow to the rad is the most common argument againt fmic. However, if the rad is properly sized, with proper ducting, a good fan shroud and strong fan(s) you should be find, and a vented hood doesn't hurt.

All that being said, I have had fmic, v-mount and am now running air to water.
- Air to water doesn't need to have ice constantly added if you run an additional rad specifically for the ic.
- cant comment on efficiency of air to water vs air to air yet since the car is a few days from being started and wont be driven till spring. (its -40c here right now...)
- can tell you air to water is more complicated system, takes up alot of room due to the system components:Air to water ic, rad, resevoir tank, lines, and pump.
- more things to go wrong with air to water, pump could fair, more fittings to leak
- upside is, if designed properly it is "supposed" to create more consistent air temps in city driving since the water is constantly flowing thru the rad disipating the heat absorbed from the air.
- In my case what looks like a fmic is actually the rad for the ic and the fan on my engine rad is strong enough and ducted as such that air in constantly being pulled through the ic rad.


If money and complexity are issues, stick with a well designed fmic.

 

Thanks for the replies on both my threads.. Good to have a tried and tested response.
Hope your new setup works out for you.

Lee

 

A few pics.

 

Thank you for the pics.. A snug set-up for sure! Nice though. Like the idea of the protection bar around the rads too. Think I will add one of those to my set-up. What have you done to the headlights? Looks like a new mechanism for the pops? Is that something you knocked up yourself?

Thank you
Lee

 

In order to fit the cold air intake and oil cooler had to use aftermarket actuators for the headlights. Had a friend fab up the linkage and connected the actuators to a DPDT switch, works well.

- This setup works with a 99 spec bumper and bumper re-bar so its safe and road legal unlike many setups where the FMIC basically is in place of the re-bar.

- The bottom bar was fabricated to add strength to the front and provides a mounting point for the intercooler rad and belly pan.

 

Cool.. I am on the look out for flush fit lights for the same reason.. Makes pipe running a lot easier! Hopefully!

 

Had flush lights and they were garbage, fit wasn't great, light output sucked and they are not DOT legal. Woud save your money and stick with the stock headlights.

 

Any pics of the reservoir tank?

I am running a water to air intercooler on my FC, and so far it works pretty good; however I am barely boosting the engine at 11psi.

 

Think I will have to wait and see what room I am left with after all the pipework is in. For sure some of the sleek lights have rubbish lighting and are very pricey!