Hey,

Got the check i needed today, so I'm starting looking for a blown longblock. must have a good eshaft, irons, and rear counterweight, as well as an intake manifold and set of pullies. everything else is unimportant. (unless i missed something that is 20B specific..?)

I am not looking for anything in super good condition other than the parts above, as it will all be redone anyway. Price is very important, but im willing to pay a reasonable amount. I'm also in the market for 3 s5 NA rotors if someone has some of them... and i may be interested in other parts too, just depends on the deal.

let me know if anyone has anything..

thanks
Pat

 

Why a blown one, its going tocost you the same either way

 

i doubt it. ive seen several blown ones go for 1500-2k, while a running one will be 4k. since i dont care if it is running or not, and will have to buy the rebuild stuff anyway, seems like the way to go if i can find one.

 

well, new rotor housings are about 550 each, so thats $1650 right there, plus if its blown, count on replacing at least one rotor, if not two. And thats assuming the E shaft and the plates made it through the carnage...so, if you get a blown one for say, 2K, you'll spend the same amount in shipping, then another 1650 for housings, so thats $3650, plus at least a rotor or two and those are another $600 each if you get brand new. You might as well spend the money and get a known good one, because at least then you know the critical parts are still ok such as the E shaft and the plates....

 

im building the motor with s5 NA rotors, so i have to buy those anyway, and FD rotorhousings, so I have to buy those anyway. Im also using all new seals, so i have to buy those anyway, and im going to grind the irons, so i have to pay for that anyway. plus, im gonna port it, so i'll have to tear it down for that anyway.

and even if i do spend the extra 2k on a 'running' block...i still dont KNOW that its good, all i have is the word of some JDM importer.

if i could get a really nice deal i'd take a running block, but i dont want to pay for something i dont need...

mostly i posted this thread to see if anyone had a core they wanted rid of.

pat

 

thats cool then. Also, shaving the side plates is a waste of money. Also, you have to be carefull becuase when you shave that much material off that many plates, the engine could end up being short as much as a mm or 2. then you start running into rotor clearance issues....

 

shaving the side plates is a waste of money?? I beg to differ. Did you see mine after they were done? As long as whoever is doing the surfacing knows what they are doing, they shouldn't be anywhere near a mm or 2 shorter overall. I think mine were taken down maybe a thousandth on each surface. Also, I'd suggest clearancing the rotors anyways.

 

in a way, becuase new plates arent that expensive (for a 2 rotor). Also, once you mill the face down, you take a thousandth away from the water seal support flange area. multiply that over the area of a whole 20b motor (4 plates) also, the FSM calls out for .1mm wear max on the face. so, take that for what its worth I suppose....as far as i know, the US is the onely place where they mill side plates....japan just replaces them...

 

20B Motors are so hard to get now.... I seriously doubt someone will sell a core long or shortblock even if they do have it. I have a few of the Rare parts and I am not willing to sell any of it as if I have failure in my motor, I want to have the stuff on the shelf to fix it... Most people think the way I do..

" I rather have and not need then need and not have it!"

I have imported about more than 20 3Rotors from Japan in the last 6 years and have only come across 2 or 3 that were cores (some sort of mechanical failure) and even those sold for just a few hundred less than a good motor..

Buying a core motor can be a huge Gamble: Here is the deal breaker.....

20B motors are Super limited production..less than 5000 motors Total... and most of the important parts are now NLA from MAZDA ..What happens if you open the motor and find disaster???? 20b Specific parts may be damaged... Open it up and the E-shaft or any of the plates large center or small center side plate are FUBAR and you are screwed... WHere are you going to buy those parts?? Most of which are NLA, like the e-shaft... There are a few guys out there who have 20B motors they can do nothing with because the need an E-shaft or one of the inner side plates that you can not buy..

A core motor may become your biggest NIGHTMARE

Be careful... There are somethings in the world you should not want to get a super good deal on....

 

You can grind side plates all day long and it will never change rotor clearance, the aluminum housing is responsible for the correct rotor clearance. You are right about being careful, as they can only be re-ground once, but is well worth it for compression sealing. But is only 1-2 thou of a inch on each plate.

 

they can be re-ground several times. i think the limit is like .030" before you get e-shaft clearnace problems. and i usually grind around .002 off to get a smooth surface. the problem with grinding them has nothing to do with clearance, it is that it removes the hard nitrided surface, reducing engine life. however, i havent figured out how much it reduces life, or what the brinnell or rockwell hardness of the nitride vs casting is. also there are several ways to re-harden them if desired.

anyway, i know a blown 20B is hard to come by. But they do come up every once in a while, so i just posted up to see if anyone had one. if i cant get one by the time it gets warm here, then i'll just buy a running motor.

pat