I was reading through the faq on 20B and found that it costs 10k to put one in. I Have an fc that i am considering doing a swap since i need to rebuild. What has been your guys experiance with the 20B. Na is what im thinking about. Did it cost you guys 10k to complete the project?

 

The price depends on many factors, such as the current condition of the car, the level to which you want to build it, access to auto shop and fabrication equipment, used parts and material scrounging ability, and labor costs. For example, if you are the owner of an extensive auto shop, you have a lot of spare parts and materials hanging around the shop, and you start with a car that is in excellent shape and already has a standalone EMS and high-performance aftermarket fuel and cooling systems, then the price will be a lot less. The level of build will have a large impact on the price too. For example, you could run the engine with a cheapie used Microtech EMS for $1,000 or a new all-out Motec system for $10,000, so that one factor alone could double the cost. The $10K number is just a basic estimate for the average person with an unmodified car. Most of the people on this forum end up spending $20-40K due to additional performance mods and/or professional labor costs.

Note that going NA is NOT usually a route to saving a significant amount of money. This is because the engine comes stock with turbos, and a custom header is usually more expensive than a downpipe. Of course it depends on the condition of the used engine that you start with and how you may decide to build up the engine past the basic level, but in general a NA 20B will cost about the same or even more than a stock 20B-REW conversion. However, choosing the aftermarket turbo route usually at least doubles the price vs. stock or NA.

Besides money, you should also be warned that a 20B conversion takes a very long time. Even professional shops tend to take a week if not several months.

 

Sure that makes sence. Getting a 20b costs 3k to start from an engine import shop. Its just so tempting. Rebuilding my 13BT is gonna cost about 5k. Then Im going haltek so ill be spending close to about 7k in the end. Possibly more. If I can get an na 20b in there for the same price i would totaly do it. What do you think?

 

I think you are underestimating the cost and complexity. For example, do you realize that you will also need many other mods, such as a custom header, custom engine mounts, flywheel, upgraded clutch pack, ignition coil pack, upgraded radiator, modified water pump, gutted TII intercooler inlet, modified or aftermarket tachometer, and custom front sway bar? Also, the used 20B engine will probably also require a rebuild, which is going to cost at least 50% more than your 13BT.

 

im sure there is a lot more involved. Nvm. Thanks for the help anyway.

 

My advice! Learn to fabricate and learn to source your parts. That's the only way you can do any 20b conversion (turbo or NA) on the cheap. I think I have about 13k in my NA set-up and that includes new wheels and body kit installation.


Oh yea patience is a definite must.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

I think the word cheap and 20b just dont mix lol, honestly I just had the opportunity to tear down my 20b C976 block and it was in perfect and beautiful shape but regardless I replaced all the internals and had it street ported, dowel pinned and clearenced, etc.

You should start of with a fresh motor that way you can be confident about the build but that is just my opinion, I think your looking at closer to 30k and up for a proper turbo build. Or if your confident about your work do it yourself either way its going to be expensive....

 

^But not nearly as expensive if you DIY. It's always the cheapest route (if you know what your doing) because you save a ton in labor cost. You also save a bit in parts mark-up cost. Most vendors don't make their own parts. They usually buy from a supplier and re-sale.

Example: Rx7 Specialties sub-frame really only cost about $$50.00 in parts to make. Then there is the labor to build it. The 1st one is always the hardest because you have no jig. Once you build the jig, the additional sub-frames are built at a fraction of the cost. Maybe $300.00 or so in labor and everything. Then that part is marked up F/S to market value. Hell that's $1200-1600. If a vendor buys the Rx7 Specialties sub-frame to re-sale, they obviously will get vendor pricing. Their cost may be $800.00. Most vendors have a 100% mark-up rule on cost. So the consumer is again paying $1600.

Now don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with the economics of this. Businesses have to survive (I was Parts Manager at Mazda at one point)! But my sub-frame cost me $40.00. That kinda savings left me with the money to buy my ecu.