Ive decided to dedicate the time, and money into a 20b swap. It will be going into my 87 TII. I originally planned on using the stock ECU and sequential system, but have since realized how much aof a PITA it would have been.

Well after I found out that my E6k will work with the 20B I am definatly going to utilize it, so it will be on a standalone and obviously be running non-sequential.

Are there any fitment issues at all besides the Radiator and Mounts? I heard something about the front sway bar possibly getting in the way? Also, what is the deal with the waterpump/pullys? Would it be best to pull the front cover off of my 13b and just swap it? Or is just a waterpump change sufficient?? I know im being slightly tedious (and probly annoying) asking all these questions, but I want to know exactly what im getting into before I do it. I also would like to have ALL the parts here before I dismantle my perfectly running car...lol

Ive got a "shopping list" made out, if some of you guys could point out what im missing or dont list please let me know.

Standalone (have)
Front mount IC (have)
Fab. IC piping
Oil Cooler lines
Flywheel/Clutch
Custom Radiator
Custom engine mounts
Fab. Dowpipe
another TII dual tower coil
Do the wiring
Tune it

What am I missing? Also, with your past experience, how long are these engines lasting? I am planning on having it Rebuilt/Ported in the near future of course, but for now I am "hoping" to drop it in and make it run....is this a pipe dream? or are most of these engines ok to run for a short while without a rebuild. I know of course this depends on the particular engine...but im sure you realize what im getting at.

Anyhow, any help is appreciated!

 

there is engine mounts always for sale on ebay made of stainless, so you dont need to make custom ones.

 

I dont know if the e6k will run split timing on a 3 rotor. also, you are gonna need a fuel system. at least a pump. the stock sway bar will not fit. the reason people swap the water pumps out is because the 20b waterpump housing is huge and it wont clear the hood. you are gonna need more than another t2 dual post coil. reason is, you want to run split timing so you will need at least 2 more seperate coils to run the trailing and the leading. you can find single post FD coils relatively cheap if you are trying to stay OEM....good luck with the swap....

 

I already have a fuel pump ect in the car, I just forgot to list it. As for the E6k I am going mostly by the info on ReTed's site. Wich, by his information, I can run an E6k, with no split timing as a 6cyl with 3 Leading TII Tower coils (there are 2 coils in one tower, so that makes 6). The sway bar definatly needs to be addressed, I am guessing the best thing there is to buy one, wich Ted had also said something about on his site.

I am looking into another standalone, but would much rather use the E6k for this coming season untill the car goes down for next winter. Wich, at that time I am hoping to do a single Turbo setup, porting ect and will definatly be wanting the more capable standalone.

 

if you know you are going to go turbo in the future, just wait and do it all at once. you'll thank us! Its too much work/money to build an na motor, tune it, then change the harness, ecu, add a turbo, all the plumbing, etc and then retune it. id just wait...my $.02

 

e6k will not run split timing. Though it has been used succesfully on several installs, 0 split is bad juju.

Sell the e6k and get the e11, microtech or something that can run the split.

 

Im not running it N/A, im going to run the stock twins Non-Sequential.

 

oh then, yea, dont use the E6k...no split is dangerous

 

Pardon my lack of knowledge on this, but what makes running no Spilt so dangerous?

 

On a turbo application it definately increases the likelyhood of predetionation which is not something you want to gamble with on a 20B

 

I thought the stock ecu in the 3rd gen ran no split under boost?