Help me keep my 20b cool in sunny florida..please!
07-08-09, 10:18 PM
#1
Help me keep my 20b cool in sunny florida..please!
Here is my setup
Front mount intercooler fallowed by the a/c condenser/small 10inch fan and then the koyo n-flo radiator with flexalite fans that flow 2500cfm.
when i had the car on the dyno couple of days a go with the hood up the temps were at 88-90 with no a/c obviously.. today i go for a cruise and it was super, super hot here in orlando florida and i looked at the water temp and they were 88-90 with out a/c and complete stop once i cranked the a/c they went up to 90-92 once i got on the highway around 80mph under some boost and around 3700 rmp temps starting going up 90-92 with out a/c and 94-98 with a/c.. what can i do to keep my temps around 88-90? any ideas or help would be gladly appreciatd..
Front mount intercooler fallowed by the a/c condenser/small 10inch fan and then the koyo n-flo radiator with flexalite fans that flow 2500cfm.
when i had the car on the dyno couple of days a go with the hood up the temps were at 88-90 with no a/c obviously.. today i go for a cruise and it was super, super hot here in orlando florida and i looked at the water temp and they were 88-90 with out a/c and complete stop once i cranked the a/c they went up to 90-92 once i got on the highway around 80mph under some boost and around 3700 rmp temps starting going up 90-92 with out a/c and 94-98 with a/c.. what can i do to keep my temps around 88-90? any ideas or help would be gladly appreciatd..
07-08-09, 11:15 PM
#3
I am a bit skeptical about the AN lines for the radiator setup, I think they may be restricting flow at higher rpm. If they are not 1.25" I.D. then there is going to be some issues (They look like -12an? if so that is like 5/8" I.D.). The alternator belt your using is also very skinny. If you can turn the waterpump with your hand (engine off) then the belt is most likely slipping at higher rpm. And lastly you want to make sure there is a undertray on the car, and ducting going to the radiator. Otherwise at higher speed the air is not going to travel properly through all the heat exchangers.
Last edited by GtoRx7; 07-08-09 at 11:18 PM.
. you think a undertray will make a difference?
07-09-09, 12:26 AM
#5
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What kind of venting do you have in the hood? You,ve got to pull that hot air out from under the hood to make the fans work efficiently and the stock hoods just suck when it comes to that. Also, I have a friend that works with Hendricks Motorsports and he says that it is very important to have a good fitting intake and exhaust shroud to funnel the air precisely through the radiator. I have a 4" thick Fluidyne Racing radiator and a 3" thick intercooler stacked together on my 3rotor FD and have cooling issue especially when not moving at speed. Just too much to pull through and I have been discussing putting a pusher fan set-up on the front to assist the Flexa-lite pullers under the hood.
I have the Shine hood with the wrap around vents up neer the windshield. It not only sucks the heat out through the engine bay but I think that it is the most graceful and attractive hood that I have ever seen.
I have the Shine hood with the wrap around vents up neer the windshield. It not only sucks the heat out through the engine bay but I think that it is the most graceful and attractive hood that I have ever seen.
07-10-09, 06:09 PM
#6
I am a bit skeptical about the AN lines for the radiator setup, I think they may be restricting flow at higher rpm. If they are not 1.25" I.D. then there is going to be some issues (They look like -12an? if so that is like 5/8" I.D.). The alternator belt your using is also very skinny. If you can turn the waterpump with your hand (engine off) then the belt is most likely slipping at higher rpm. And lastly you want to make sure there is a undertray on the car, and ducting going to the radiator. Otherwise at higher speed the air is not going to travel properly through all the heat exchangers.
07-18-09, 12:08 AM
#9
As GTO already stated, ducking will have the single biggest impact. Air will always take the path of least resistence. Heat exchangers only work when the air flows threw it and not around. Which means any air that goes threw the mouth of your car, shouldn't have areas for air to excape other than through whatever heat exchangers you have in place.
07-18-09, 07:48 PM
#10
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Go with a front bumper that has bigger opening on it. Maybe run 75% distilled water and 15% coolant? Go with a 170 deg. thermostat? Upgrade Efans to something with more CFM.
07-21-09, 07:01 AM
#13
Man, that car is a piece of crap!
Kidding of course. As you read in my thread I too have developed this same problem. As my water pump turns easily by hand and still pretty easily with tightening, I ordered the chadwick idler pulley kit and will try this first. If this doesn't solve the problem (didn't have any issue on the 9 hour drive back and forth from DGRR) then I'll look at ducting and go from there.
Question: If it is 95+ in hot steamy FL, what is the best water temps we can expect this time of the year?
FYI - I see your tag line "1BAD 20B". This was available for the FL license plate a few months ago. Thought about this but wanted to keep them guessing a little so I went with "1BAD RRR".
Kidding of course. As you read in my thread I too have developed this same problem. As my water pump turns easily by hand and still pretty easily with tightening, I ordered the chadwick idler pulley kit and will try this first. If this doesn't solve the problem (didn't have any issue on the 9 hour drive back and forth from DGRR) then I'll look at ducting and go from there.Question: If it is 95+ in hot steamy FL, what is the best water temps we can expect this time of the year?
FYI - I see your tag line "1BAD 20B". This was available for the FL license plate a few months ago. Thought about this but wanted to keep them guessing a little so I went with "1BAD RRR".
07-21-09, 11:12 AM
#14
So i installed a thermostat yesterday and my temps are a lot more stable. 92-94 with out a/c and 94-99 with a/c but it was also blazin hot out there.
my oil temps are 180-205.
i have ordered a undertray and going to do some serious ducting in the next wk or so and that should help my temps drop a little.. and eventually a vented hood.. i will post pics.
ive had this plate for over a yr a go.. i noticed your plate said "1BAD-RRR" when i went over to jesus and it took me a few mins to figure it out. A lot of ppl have no idea what a 20b is unless they have owned a rotary engine powered car in their lifetime.. ppl are always asking me what kinda car is that? and when i tell them is a rx7 they are like " no way! " i'm like "yes way, and a very fast one."
my oil temps are 180-205.
i have ordered a undertray and going to do some serious ducting in the next wk or so and that should help my temps drop a little.. and eventually a vented hood.. i will post pics.
ive had this plate for over a yr a go.. i noticed your plate said "1BAD-RRR" when i went over to jesus and it took me a few mins to figure it out
. A lot of ppl have no idea what a 20b is unless they have owned a rotary engine powered car in their lifetime.. ppl are always asking me what kinda car is that? and when i tell them is a rx7 they are like " no way! " i'm like "yes way, and a very fast one."
08-23-09, 07:07 AM
#17
I ask because yesterday my water temps hit 100c. I don't have an undertray installed but I have a 3 pice one in the shed that I am going to put on. What ducting did you do?
08-23-09, 07:54 AM
#18
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What brand and weight oil are you 20B peeps running? In florida I'd suggest Idemitsu 20w50 year round.
Also, look into the extra idler pulley, I run the Tweak-it unit from Chadwick and am a believer in the unit. Not sure if he makes a 20B piece but it's worth shooting him a PM
Also, look into the extra idler pulley, I run the Tweak-it unit from Chadwick and am a believer in the unit. Not sure if he makes a 20B piece but it's worth shooting him a PM
08-23-09, 08:01 AM
#19
^+1
I don't have a 20B, but I do run 20w50 year round here in Florida in all of my 7s. And I just picked up pineapples racing version of the idle pulley. You can test to see if your water pump is slipping. Go out a grab your water pump pulley and try and turn it. If you can turn it by hand, then your belt is slipping at higher rpms.
I don't have a 20B, but I do run 20w50 year round here in Florida in all of my 7s. And I just picked up pineapples racing version of the idle pulley. You can test to see if your water pump is slipping. Go out a grab your water pump pulley and try and turn it. If you can turn it by hand, then your belt is slipping at higher rpms.
08-23-09, 10:17 AM
#20
What brand and weight oil are you 20B peeps running? In florida I'd suggest Idemitsu 20w50 year round.
Also, look into the extra idler pulley, I run the Tweak-it unit from Chadwick and am a believer in the unit. Not sure if he makes a 20B piece but it's worth shooting him a PM
Also, look into the extra idler pulley, I run the Tweak-it unit from Chadwick and am a believer in the unit. Not sure if he makes a 20B piece but it's worth shooting him a PM
Rich, what do you think about installing an undertray and its impact on temps? Will it help?
08-23-09, 10:50 AM
#21
dave i will take pics later and explain you what i did.. i ran a line from the water pump to the rear plate and what really made a huge different was the ducting i seal the entire intercooler/radiator and bumper/oil coolers. i have a under tray but is sitting in my garage.
08-23-09, 11:40 AM
#22
dave i will take pics later and explain you what i did.. i ran a line from the water pump to the rear plate and what really made a huge different was the ducting i seal the entire intercooler/radiator and bumper/oil coolers. i have a under tray but is sitting in my garage.
08-23-09, 08:37 PM
#23
I can't believe you guys drive around without them. It's #1 design purpose is to trap the air flow that enters the mouth of your bumper. If you don't have it, the air that enters the mouth will simply travel around/under your heat exchangers. Any purpose built hi performance automobile should never be without one and the ducting the goes along with it.
Edit: Also David since you have a custom engineered rad set up, you need to make sure it's properly ducted if your going to re-install the stock undertray. Ideally you dont want any gaps around the radiator. This is the only way you'll get max cooling.
08-24-09, 06:52 AM
#24
I can't believe you guys drive around without them. It's #1 design purpose is to trap the air flow that enters the mouth of your bumper. If you don't have it, the air that enters the mouth will simply travel around/under your heat exchangers. Any purpose built hi performance automobile should never be without one and the ducting the goes along with it.
Edit: Also David since you have a custom engineered rad set up, you need to make sure it's properly ducted if your going to re-install the stock undertray. Ideally you dont want any gaps around the radiator. This is the only way you'll get max cooling.
Edit: Also David since you have a custom engineered rad set up, you need to make sure it's properly ducted if your going to re-install the stock undertray. Ideally you dont want any gaps around the radiator. This is the only way you'll get max cooling.
The undertray I have is the three piece one for the 99 spec bumper. I'll try again today to have it installed. When you say gaps around the radiator, what do you mean? The undertray will completely cover below the radiator but do you mean special ducting for the radiator in addition to this?
08-24-09, 10:01 AM
#25
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David, I don't have a 20B installed but on my MB, i initially used the 3 piece 99 undertray.. but after installing it, I realized it was useless.. What I ended up doing was use the 99+ OEM single piece undertray and then used the 2 side pieces from the 99 3 piece and then R magic 99 bumper oil cooler ducts. The foam from the 99 oem piece could be removed to place it under the rad and that will help push the air thru the radiator more.. Also, now I can't see thru my bumper and see the ground..