Fuel Gauge dead??
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Fuel Gauge dead??
Hi Guys,
I powered up my 20B converted FD3 the other day for the first time to check over everything electrical prior to starting it up.
I noticed the fuel gauge in the instrument cluster is not working. I wondered if this is something to do with wiring that I have missed out from the chassis connecting plugs or something or if it is simply something wrong with my instrument cluster or wiring for that particular gauge.
Can anyone help please?
Cheers
Lee
I powered up my 20B converted FD3 the other day for the first time to check over everything electrical prior to starting it up.
I noticed the fuel gauge in the instrument cluster is not working. I wondered if this is something to do with wiring that I have missed out from the chassis connecting plugs or something or if it is simply something wrong with my instrument cluster or wiring for that particular gauge.
Can anyone help please?
Cheers
Lee
#3
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There can be many reasons. I had the same problem but that is because I changed my fuel pump hanger and I put in a CJ rail which is all aluminum and it is not a very good conductor. When I properly grounded the level mechanism, basically I didn't ground it to the hanger but to the ground wire of the pump then it came back. But there are other things like the capacitors that are in the dash that can be burned up... Or there can be something wrong with your wiring all together. Did you change something in your fuel setup?
Andrew
Andrew
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Hi Guy's
I have a workshop wiring manual so if you can point me in the right direction that would be great. So far the fuel system is just the stock FD system other than I have put a relay in direct from the battery to power the pump.
and I am running a microtech ECU. I have the blue and white plugs for the chassis with a couple of connections made as I had found out on here. Thought I had everything covered!?
Regards
Lee
I have a workshop wiring manual so if you can point me in the right direction that would be great. So far the fuel system is just the stock FD system other than I have put a relay in direct from the battery to power the pump.
and I am running a microtech ECU. I have the blue and white plugs for the chassis with a couple of connections made as I had found out on here. Thought I had everything covered!?
Regards
Lee
#6
Check for voltage at the back of your dash on the connector C1-01, pin 2D colour = Black and yellow trace. you should have 12V as this powers most of your instrument cluster.
Check voltage at the back of your dash at C1-01, pin 1E colour = Black
You should see very near 0V if not 0V - this acts as the earth for most of your instrument cluster.
Check voltage at the back of your dash at C1-01, pin 2B colour = White with green trace.
You should see a voltage between 0V to 12V depending on fuel level.
Check voltage at the fuel sender plug (B1-06) White with green trace.
There should be no difference in voltage between this and the above reading.
As you move the fuel level sender you should see the above voltage change.
Check voltage at fuel sender plug B1-06 black with blue trace.
It should read 0V
if all the above readings are correct it is likely that your gauge is faulty.
Check voltage at the back of your dash at C1-01, pin 1E colour = Black
You should see very near 0V if not 0V - this acts as the earth for most of your instrument cluster.
Check voltage at the back of your dash at C1-01, pin 2B colour = White with green trace.
You should see a voltage between 0V to 12V depending on fuel level.
Check voltage at the fuel sender plug (B1-06) White with green trace.
There should be no difference in voltage between this and the above reading.
As you move the fuel level sender you should see the above voltage change.
Check voltage at fuel sender plug B1-06 black with blue trace.
It should read 0V
if all the above readings are correct it is likely that your gauge is faulty.
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Thank you for taking the time to reply. good information. I will get the multimeter out and see what I can find. Just to give a bit more info.
The instruments and warning lights all light up when the key is on. except the fuel gauge. Not sure if the gauges work yet as I haven't been able to fire it up.
Also the rev counter in the cluster is going crazy and the needle is bouncing around at redline when the ignition key is on. I know it did that before the conversion but it could be a shorted wire or something maybe? I also noticed that this bouncing rev counter does no occur when the fuel pump relay is disconnected. in fact I think you just need to pull the power fuse out to the relay so the pump stops and the counter remains static. Albeit off the wrong end of the rpm scale!?
Not sure if this is related or just a coincidence due to some sort of interference?
Thank you
Lee
The instruments and warning lights all light up when the key is on. except the fuel gauge. Not sure if the gauges work yet as I haven't been able to fire it up.
Also the rev counter in the cluster is going crazy and the needle is bouncing around at redline when the ignition key is on. I know it did that before the conversion but it could be a shorted wire or something maybe? I also noticed that this bouncing rev counter does no occur when the fuel pump relay is disconnected. in fact I think you just need to pull the power fuse out to the relay so the pump stops and the counter remains static. Albeit off the wrong end of the rpm scale!?
Not sure if this is related or just a coincidence due to some sort of interference?
Thank you
Lee
#9
too see if you have power to most of your gauges, watch your temp gauge very carefully when you turn your ignition on, it should jump up just a very tiny amount.
That will give you an indication if you have power feeding into hopefully most of your gauges.
That will give you an indication if you have power feeding into hopefully most of your gauges.
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I will try and look for that.. Thank you.
Do you know if the earh wire on the blue chassis/engine plug should be earthed? Mine has not been yet and wonder if that is causing any issue? White cluster plug is earthed but I spotted the blue plug has one too which I saw labelled as sensor gnd on a pinout.
Cheers
Lee
Do you know if the earh wire on the blue chassis/engine plug should be earthed? Mine has not been yet and wonder if that is causing any issue? White cluster plug is earthed but I spotted the blue plug has one too which I saw labelled as sensor gnd on a pinout.
Cheers
Lee
#11
cant say I'm over familiar with fd's as in a blue or white plug means nothing to me, every thing I told you was from reading the wiring diagram for one.
ground it out and see if it helps, poor earths can cause all sorts of faults.
ground it out and see if it helps, poor earths can cause all sorts of faults.
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