Who knows which of these allow the engine to sit lower and/or further back if there is any differnce at all. usfdr has the fc3s.org mounts, Kurgan and J9.... have the K2RD mounts. How about measurement from two or three of you with a common reference point so we can have a comparison.

 

I can't help you out with measurements and such, but I do know the fc3s.org mounts are a hell of a lot cheaper!!!

 

i havent taken exact measurements but i have 3 fingers between the oil pan and the steering rack on the k2rd mounts

mike

 

3 Fingers? Are you filling up your friday night drinks already or what?!?!

 

My custom SPiN racing mounts put the oil pan 1/8" above the steering knuckle. My fingers aren't that thin.

If you really want the engine to sit low, then make your own mounts and either move the steering rack or modify the oil pan.

 

On mine, the K2RD mounts make the motor sit so that I had to move the alternator and cut out some of the hood to get it closed.

 

Same with mine. Anybody who installs the 20B with a stock oil pan into an FC with the stock steering rack is going to have slight hood clearance problems.

 

yup, my alternator fit with minor cutting though

mike

 

Mine fit so that I have to make a bracket for the swaybar ( not very hard at all). It clears the steering rack and the hood will close with no modifications to the engine (ie stock water pump housing, altenator location, P/S. You doo need a TII hood and also need to cut a little bit of the brace work under the hood. Other than that no other problems besides the radiator. Everyone needs to move that. Although, if I just used the pulley for the altenator (no P/S, A/C) it might fit with the radiator in the stock location.

Hope this helps, Using the fc3s.org mounts.

Usfdr

 

how's your car coming? we havent heard anything in awhile

mike

 

With the FC3S.org mounts in a 88 TII and a 13B-RE w/KS cast manifold; some mount trimming is in order

Sorry, wrong forum....... My bad

 

What does the front of the motor sit on?

I have cutom mounts and the motor is fine in the rear but the sump sits on the PSrack on the front.

Is this right or should there be a gap?

If so .. what did you guys do with the PS lines ontop of the rack?

 

The K2RD mounts are made to use STOCK, USED engine mounts.
It is made to fit with enough space to keep the oil pan from hitting the steering rack upon heavy compression of the engine with STOCK, USED engine mounts.

If you're worried about engine to hood clearance, you shouldn't be doing this swap in the first place.


-Ted

 

I am not worried about engine to hood clearance.

Just wondering is their any negative sideffects from the sump touching on the Powersteering rack?

I brought my mounts of a local who claimed to have purchased them from the states. Could be K2RD mounts. No idea.

 

Most of the people in the US who add a 20B to their RX-7 are interested in performance, and would therefore use the higher-performance manual steering rack vs. the power steering rack. You may want to consider installing a manual rack. If you think the manual rack would also interfere with your current mounts, then there is nothing stopping you from using your current mounts as a guide and fabricating new mounts.

The vibration from the engine will wear a hole in the oil pan, and/or wear the steering rack.

 

Yeah I would love a manual PS rack.

Here in Australia they are extremly rare .. infact I have never ever seen one for sale and out of the 100 or so FC's that I know of .. none have them.

PS was standard here ... I know you guys got them on your poverty packs. Hence I am trying to work with what I have.

Thanks for your input I will be addressing the issue today.

Cheers
Sam

 

It's going to end up being 1/2" to 1/4" of clearance, depending on the condition of your engine mounts.

Like I said before, the K2RD brackets were designed for used, original engine mounts.
All of those mounts are "sagging" and you can see the "offset" when you remove them.
We shot for a 1/4" clearance or about one to two fingers clearance of the steering rack.

If you're using NEW, competition (stiffer) engine mounts, the engine will raise slightly.

Like Evil Aviator mentioned, putting a hole in the oil pan is a possibility.
I do not recommend doing that.

Remember, the steering rack is "floating" on rubber "bushings".
If the engine is banging on the rack, it will shift the steering rack around, and your alignment will get knocked out.

We did not care about hood clearance when designing the K2RD brackets.
Hood clearance is something most people can take of when doing this engine conversion.


-Ted

 

That's good, because it is not possible to do that with just engine mounts unless you have figured out some way around the problem of physical coincidence.

 

Hey ..

can you please tell me if my mounts are K2rd Mounts?

Also I noticed that the metal they are made out of is not thick enough to clear the non-threaded part of the studs so I went and purchased some High tensile steel washers. However I am now having issues with the motor being just over 1/2 inch closer to the LHS chassis rail at the rear of the engine than the front of the engine.

Can anyone help me as these mounts do not just bolt on .. washers were needed to be added so they sat reliatvley straight.

The cast iron end plates don't stick out as far as the rotor housings so the washers were needed to clear.

I have attached a picture to explain it better.

I have a new Engine mount on the LHS of the car (looking from the hood to the rear of the car). The RHS one is the original factory fitment.

 

Those don't look like the k2rd mounts. Here are a couple pics of them.

-Destin

 

Can you tell me how thick the spacer is or do you have any instructions for instaliation.

I am quite impressed and might order a set of them.

 

The spacer is 12mm. I haven't installed them yet. Hopefully in 3-4 months after I find a worthy fc to molest.

-Destin

 

Thoes mounts look exactly the same as mine. I purched them from a member who is on this and teamfc3s. I do not recal his screen name however i have his email address

I had the same problem with them not clearning the non-threaded portion of the studs. I removed the studs and bought some bolts. On the rear of one of the mounts (dont recall which) i had to use a large nut as a spacer because the threaded portion of the block was recessed about 1/2 inch

 

Thanks CrackHeadMel.

So other than the nut and bolts .. was there anything else you did?

Cheers
Sam

 

Yep, sillbeer posted pics of the K2RD ones.
The K2RD passenger side engine bracket has *THREE* points of attachment.

The FC3S.Org ones are only two, and the others I've seen are all 2 points.

The K2RD ones should also be powder-coated gray.


-Ted