E-shaft refuses to separate

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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 03:03 AM
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E-shaft refuses to separate

So I've spent the last hour or two trying to get my e-shaft to separate. It's soaking in WD-40 and I've given up for the night, but I figured I would ask here for any tips. I'm currently set up like this (not my pic)



except with a 3lb sledge and a ~20" crowbar. The engine is on 2x4s on top of the pallet and the e-shaft is resting on a wedge. My full body weight on the crowbar with light to medium taps of the hammer won't move it. Any ideas? I really don't want to whack this thing much harder.

Thanks.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 03:24 AM
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Well, a 4ft crowbar, the same 3lb sledge, and some persistence is apparently the solution.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 09:24 AM
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I haven't found WD40 to be a great motivator unless things aren't really all THAT stuck. I have had good luck with a custom mixture of acetone and transmission fluid.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by spazzytroy
Well, a 4ft crowbar, the same 3lb sledge, and some persistence is apparently the solution.
After flushing time and money down the toilet with a home made "separator" tool the method in the above photo worked for me. Surprisingly well in fact.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 09:06 PM
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this is how I do it now too took about 10 hits on the last 3 engines I broke down. I find it faster to use 2 people. one on the crowbar the other with the sledge
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 11:23 PM
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If your having that much trouble, you may need to heat it up. Wait where in Texas are you?
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by t-von
If your having that much trouble, you may need to heat it up. Wait where in Texas are you?
I got it apart when I wrote that 2nd post. It had soaked in WD-40 overnight, then I took my oxy-mapp to it (but didn't heat it as hot as i got the eshaft bolt / FW nut), then my buddy whacked it about 2 sets of about 10 times while I leaned on the very end of the bar and it popped loose.

I still managed to put a small nick in the shaft even though it was supported underneath by a wedge of wood. As I recall, it's on the surface between the 2 rear lobes where you can still see the machined ribs. I'll post up pics when I update my build thread.
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 06:51 AM
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just FYI, you guys need to be careful with heating parts like the eshaft, as they are heat treated steel and you can ruin them if you get any area too hot. 300F is fine, but be careful not to ever get any one spot over 600 degrees. I personally would never use the heat wrench on a eshaft, when I am doing things like that I use an electric heat gun instead
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by spazzytroy
I got it apart when I wrote that 2nd post. It had soaked in WD-40 overnight, then I took my oxy-mapp to it (but didn't heat it as hot as i got the eshaft bolt / FW nut), then my buddy whacked it about 2 sets of about 10 times while I leaned on the very end of the bar and it popped loose.

I still managed to put a small nick in the shaft even though it was supported underneath by a wedge of wood. As I recall, it's on the surface between the 2 rear lobes where you can still see the machined ribs. I'll post up pics when I update my build thread.
spazztroy where are you located in tx ?
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by patman
just FYI, you guys need to be careful with heating parts like the eshaft, as they are heat treated steel and you can ruin them if you get any area too hot. 300F is fine, but be careful not to ever get any one spot over 600 degrees. I personally would never use the heat wrench on a eshaft, when I am doing things like that I use an electric heat gun instead
And that is precisely what I was worried about.

Originally Posted by t-von
Wait where in Texas are you?
San Antonio
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