One other question...You went with custom mounts, correct? Are any of the clearances so close that they might cause a fitment issue if other mounts (fc3s.org) are used? I ran into that a little with my old motor ((13B-RE) when I bought a manifold made for someone else's car. It still fit, but it was VERY close.

I'll probably be looking to get the manifold around springtime unless I come into some money sooner.

Thanks for the reply!

Reese

 

when it was installed it it had plenty of room..nothing was really squeezed..fit nice..

 

What is the material, and thickness for the flanges and piping? that's a hefty cost for material.

 

I forgot to post this a while back When i took off the manual control and took it apart it was melted inside. From the outside when you turn it up it still looks like it is working. I guess all the heat from my turbo and dp was to much.

 

I know a 20B makes considerably more torque than a 13B, but I've always been curious, just how much torque are we talking about? With reliability in mind, just how much torque is a 20B capable of making?

 

look at his Dyno on the front page, with only 8psi...

 

back from the dead...

have you had time to re dyno?

what rpm did it take to get to 8psi.

if you have turned up the boost what rpm does it really start spooling good at?

I have a Cosmo with 20B in it. and Im thinking of using the GT4088R. its a little smaller. Im wanting it to start spooling up fast and still be able to put down 500.

I was thinking that using a GT40 on a 20B would be like using a T04E on 13B. I would spool quick and make lots of power. Im not looking for 600+ hp in the comso. I will use a GT42R on the next FC 20B I build.

 

I haven't re dyno the car yet, spring time for sure.

I will let you know about the rpm in a couple days because i am getting a new tach.

I love the turbo. It's doesn't hit as fast as the twins but i like it alot more.

Why don't you just up grade the twins?